Scott's 270 aka Project Mayhem

Single plug, both pumps wired to the same plug. I don't know if you can get a 220v PB that will interface with the North American Profilux? That would be a great solution to have the pump controlled by a sensor though. For sure you could program the receptacle to shut off if a sensor tripped, in turn shutting the pump completely off. Let me know if you find a 220v PB that will work, I'm now curious.

Also one point of contention I have is that if you have a bad FW update on the profilux and the machine is bricked, the PB's don't work. No PB's, no pumps. My way the Abyzz pumps are on their own circuit independent of the Profilux and it's possible hissy fits.
 
Hey Scott! How are the clamps holding up on the Abyzz pumps. In addition, I think I am going with a bigger tank soon. Pricing a 72x36x24 with the Ghost Overflow from Reef Savvy. Having said that I have a flow question for you. What do you think about 2 MP60's as opposed to 4 MP40's? I may just go with a closed loop but like the control of the Vortechs. Undecided at this point.
 
Clamps are 100%! I think the 4 MP40's are definitely overkill, but they really do eliminate a lot of dead spots. With two MP60's you'd have more than enough flow, but you'd have to find the right random program to work up the dead spots only two pumps might leave you. I don't think it would be impossible, it would just require some tinkering :)

I am very happy with this size of tank, I'd recommend it any day.
 
I now officially have montipora eating nudibranchs. Just looking for opinions on how people would attack the problem in a tank with ~12 encrusting monti's?
 
Single plug, both pumps wired to the same plug. I don't know if you can get a 220v PB that will interface with the North American Profilux? That would be a great solution to have the pump controlled by a sensor though. For sure you could program the receptacle to shut off if a sensor tripped, in turn shutting the pump completely off. Let me know if you find a 220v PB that will work, I'm now curious.

Also one point of contention I have is that if you have a bad FW update on the profilux and the machine is bricked, the PB's don't work. No PB's, no pumps. My way the Abyzz pumps are on their own circuit independent of the Profilux and it's possible hissy fits.

Good point. At the end of the day I will still require a 220v plug to run the PB... SO I would have that as a back up. I guess I will have to enquire with GHL... :D
 
Just looking for opinions on how people would attack the problem in a tank with ~12 encrusting monti's?

Remove the monties (and the rocks they are attached to) from the display tank and treat in a separate quarantine system. Use a toothbrush to remove the egg clusters on the underside of the monties. There are two dips that I have read are efficacious in killing off these nudibranchs: Coral RX and Tetra Oomed. Whichever one you choose, make sure to quarantine your monties for at least 4 weeks before re-adding them to your display tank to make sure you got them all. These things are pernicious so you have to stay on top of them to make sure you got them all.

Dave.M
 
Thanks Dave, that's the route I was trying to avoid haahaa! I cannot realistically remove the rocks they are attached to without disassembling the entire rock work. Would chipping away all of the encrusted montipora cut it?
 
The nudies are in the rockwork breeding away as well as on the underside of the monties. You have to starve them out if you're not going to treat the rock separately. That means no monties in the display tank for a minimum of four weeks (longer would be even better).

Dave.M
 
I now officially have montipora eating nudibranchs. Just looking for opinions on how people would attack the problem in a tank with ~12 encrusting monti's?

I'm living with them since I don't have the time to remove my montis. I did this to try and experience just how bad they could get. It's taken them 3 months to slowly eat my big spongodes. If I spent a week with a dental brush / pick smashing them and scrubbing for eggs I'm convinced I could keep damage down to almost unnoticeable levels.

My sixline or ruby headed wrasse may be helping, I'm not sure, but I've never seen them pick at the nudis. In my experience these nudis are not very fast.
 
If you don't mind voiding warranty you could also just cut the plug off and wire the power bar with a NA 220v plug :)

My only hesitation is if there is a profilux problem that it could affect the return pump system.
 
I am also looking into adding some T5's onto my lighting rig. Probably 8x36" to get full coverage in two bulbs. Level out the lighting and get rid of some of the darker spots. A little more pop with some of the T5 bulb combos. I have IceCap 660 ballasts, standoffs and individual reflectors that I am going to repurpose and add on to my aluminum frame.

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Mitras x 3
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Ok update time. I'm still having a time balancing out the vibrance of the LED's and the blue/purple. Any suggestions are welcome!

RR UOP. Trust me, I'm not trying to make the raised coralites glow like that. They are a very nice blue but the LED's are raising hell with my camera sensor.
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DV aurora
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IA Cobalt
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IA stag
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RR Blue Matrix still taking it's sweet time to colour up.
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DV pokerstar
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DV acro
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DV Mystic
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A nice setosa
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Scythanith said:
I'm still having a time balancing out the vibrance of the LED's and the blue/purple. Any suggestions are welcome!
There's a whole forum here on RC regarding Photography. For most it is a case of playing with the white balance on their camera. Check the many threads there on things to try.

Dave.M
 
There's a whole forum here on RC regarding Photography. For most it is a case of playing with the white balance on their camera. Check the many threads there on things to try.

Dave.M

I have posted on that forum plenty in the past ;) It's not necessarily a WB issue, although that plays some part. It's more so an irradiance issue. The blue blocker may do it, I will give that a try.
 
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