hilgert
Excessive Minimalist
I've been a longtime user of RedSea Coral Pro (RSCP), particularly due to the higher levels of the Big Three (Alk, Ca and Mg) that seem to be consistent from batch to batch.
However, recently I've reviewed many threads here and other places, as well as anecdotal observations from other reefers/LFS in my area, and I've come to the conclusion that RSCP might be the issue to my ongoing small cyano problem (which I've kept in check with siphoning and water movement, and have in the past attributed to other factors than the salt).
So, I decided to give Seachem aquavitro salinity a try (why do companies like to use lowercase these days?). From Seachem's site:
They say they make this stuff in smaller batches, and each batch has a laboratory tested batch specific guaranteed analysis. Seachem also has a handy lot# lookup where you can look up the specs (using the lot# from the label on the bucket) for any particular batch. I'm not sure this is necessary, as the lot label has all the information that the lot lookup would return. I guess it would be useful if a reefer wanted to keep a history of lots, or shared a lot# with another reefer without having to shoot a picture of the label. Anyway, a nice feature in my opinion.
I did also have some communication with Seachem, and confirmed that this is a 100% synthetic salt.
Note that this salt is very anhydrous, which has a few consequences. You will use a bit less salt than you might be used to with other salts. Also, you don't want to dump it all in at once as it can get very hot locally, and that can cause several undesirable issues (including potentially some precipitation issues, although I don't claim to be an expert in this regard). It's really always best to add salt in more slowly...I take about 20 seconds to pour it in directly over my mixing pump).
I am a "testing fanatic", and I always test every batch of salt before I use it (after a few bucket-to-bucket transfers to overcome any settling during shipping). I only do tests for the Big Three, as I don't really mess around with adjusting for anything else. I also determine the SG (to make sure nothing has changed), as I have an automated saltwater mixing/addition/daily water change system so I need to know the exact ratio of salt to RODI.
While I normally only do a "quick test" for a new batch (of a salt I would typically be using), since this was a new salt for me I took salt samples from three different buckets across three different lots. All were mixed to 35ppt in one gallon of 75°F RODI (0 TDS) water, and I ran a small circulation pump for approximately 2 hours prior to testing. There was no residue on the bottom of the containers that I could observe (containers were semi-opaque).
For Alk and Ca I used RedSea and API (which I've found to be very accurate and repeatable for Alk...see HERE), and for Mg I used RedSea (I have a Salifert kit for Mg as well, but I'm not really a worrier about Mg...close is good enough for me). I ran several different tests with each kit. I am familiar with the relationship between API and RedSea according to how *I* test (much of test kit variations in hobby grade kits boils down to the "person doing the testing"), and I found that the test results seem to agree with the label on the the batches within 5% (about 10% for Mg), so "close enough" for our hobby purposes).
In other words, I think for the Big Three it could be believed (or at least *I* am confident enough to believe so) that:
Therefore, if you were to accept the above is true, and that you were happy with those numbers, you would not need to make adjustments for the Big Three (or, if you did, you could count on the same adjustment"ish" from batch to batch). This is a key factor for me...I don't want to have to add anything to get a salt "in balance"...I want to "mix-n-go".
While some users have reported cloudy water when mixing this salt, I have not noticed cloudiness after 15 minutes or so of mixing. I do *always* mix a set amount of salt with a set amount of RODI at room temperature (typically 75°F or so in my house), and I *never* heat my salt reservoir. I've done it this way for years with RSCP, and have very little sediment in my salt reservoir. I do keep a small Koralia pump running 24x7 in the reservoir, which is kept closed (very little air movement is possible due to the design of the reservoir). So it's probably that most stuff that would have settled is just kept in suspension by the pump.
I hope this provides some useful information to those that might be interested in trying this salt mix out.
However, recently I've reviewed many threads here and other places, as well as anecdotal observations from other reefers/LFS in my area, and I've come to the conclusion that RSCP might be the issue to my ongoing small cyano problem (which I've kept in check with siphoning and water movement, and have in the past attributed to other factors than the salt).
So, I decided to give Seachem aquavitro salinity a try (why do companies like to use lowercase these days?). From Seachem's site:
They say they make this stuff in smaller batches, and each batch has a laboratory tested batch specific guaranteed analysis. Seachem also has a handy lot# lookup where you can look up the specs (using the lot# from the label on the bucket) for any particular batch. I'm not sure this is necessary, as the lot label has all the information that the lot lookup would return. I guess it would be useful if a reefer wanted to keep a history of lots, or shared a lot# with another reefer without having to shoot a picture of the label. Anyway, a nice feature in my opinion.
I did also have some communication with Seachem, and confirmed that this is a 100% synthetic salt.
Note that this salt is very anhydrous, which has a few consequences. You will use a bit less salt than you might be used to with other salts. Also, you don't want to dump it all in at once as it can get very hot locally, and that can cause several undesirable issues (including potentially some precipitation issues, although I don't claim to be an expert in this regard). It's really always best to add salt in more slowly...I take about 20 seconds to pour it in directly over my mixing pump).
I am a "testing fanatic", and I always test every batch of salt before I use it (after a few bucket-to-bucket transfers to overcome any settling during shipping). I only do tests for the Big Three, as I don't really mess around with adjusting for anything else. I also determine the SG (to make sure nothing has changed), as I have an automated saltwater mixing/addition/daily water change system so I need to know the exact ratio of salt to RODI.
While I normally only do a "quick test" for a new batch (of a salt I would typically be using), since this was a new salt for me I took salt samples from three different buckets across three different lots. All were mixed to 35ppt in one gallon of 75°F RODI (0 TDS) water, and I ran a small circulation pump for approximately 2 hours prior to testing. There was no residue on the bottom of the containers that I could observe (containers were semi-opaque).
For Alk and Ca I used RedSea and API (which I've found to be very accurate and repeatable for Alk...see HERE), and for Mg I used RedSea (I have a Salifert kit for Mg as well, but I'm not really a worrier about Mg...close is good enough for me). I ran several different tests with each kit. I am familiar with the relationship between API and RedSea according to how *I* test (much of test kit variations in hobby grade kits boils down to the "person doing the testing"), and I found that the test results seem to agree with the label on the the batches within 5% (about 10% for Mg), so "close enough" for our hobby purposes).
In other words, I think for the Big Three it could be believed (or at least *I* am confident enough to believe so) that:
- The batch label correctly states the values for the Big Three (at least within 5% of my ability to test with hobby kits).
- This salt should consistently be within the target ranges as stated above (but I always do a quick test when I open a new batch..."trust but verify".
Therefore, if you were to accept the above is true, and that you were happy with those numbers, you would not need to make adjustments for the Big Three (or, if you did, you could count on the same adjustment"ish" from batch to batch). This is a key factor for me...I don't want to have to add anything to get a salt "in balance"...I want to "mix-n-go".
While some users have reported cloudy water when mixing this salt, I have not noticed cloudiness after 15 minutes or so of mixing. I do *always* mix a set amount of salt with a set amount of RODI at room temperature (typically 75°F or so in my house), and I *never* heat my salt reservoir. I've done it this way for years with RSCP, and have very little sediment in my salt reservoir. I do keep a small Koralia pump running 24x7 in the reservoir, which is kept closed (very little air movement is possible due to the design of the reservoir). So it's probably that most stuff that would have settled is just kept in suspension by the pump.
I hope this provides some useful information to those that might be interested in trying this salt mix out.
