GroktheCube
New member
Tank looks good Michael!
Or .41 a day, kind of a small price, my fish food cost more than that.
and here 760 watts diy led. yes so much power was needed to beat my old and beloved lighting.
Or .41 a day, kind of a small price, my fish food cost more than that.
he's still putting out a ton more par than 2 250watt mh and 2 t5 HO.
At 7 cents per kw/hr, that 240 watt difference saves about $150 a year.
Just because it's an expensive hobby doesn't mean you have to be careless with your economics. If you save a few cents in many areas, it all adds up to a nice payoff. In a lot of cases the savings aren't enough to actually replace functioning equipment, but when something breaks, you owe it to yourself and your wallet to find the most efficient and cost effective replacement. It is also totally situational. Someone in an area with cheap power won't care about a minor savings on the bill. Someone in an area with expensive power will see a huge difference on the bill. Unless you just have so much money you don't care, in which case I'd like to know the gps coordinates of the money tree you found.
When you say 760 watts, you are totalling the max drive current like when they say it's a 3 watt led, or a 5 watt led. Representing things that way is a misleading way to say that, you don't run every single LED you have at 100% the entire time they are on or your corals would melt. If you are running them at 50% you are probably using 300 watt at best.
Did you by any chance measure your current draw with the MH's and measure it with the LEDs?
A good comparison video i found was this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J57lLmuZNTE
He replaced half of his lighting with an LED fixture. He had to turn it waaaaayyyyyyy wwwaaayyyyyy down, in order to not burn corals, and he's still putting out a ton more par than 2 250watt mh and 2 t5 HO. Being turned down so low means the LEDs are running at a higher efficiency as has been pointed out by GBRU316 already, and that fixture is only a 215 watt fixture at full power. I'd love to see the actual power readings.
Actually, he's in Germany. He's probably saving somewhere around $750/yr (google says power averages 35 cents per kWh there).
A good comparison video i found was this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J57lLmuZNTE
He replaced half of his lighting with an LED fixture. He had to turn it waaaaayyyyyyy wwwaaayyyyyy down, in order to not burn corals, and he's still putting out a ton more par than 2 250watt mh and 2 t5 HO. Being turned down so low means the LEDs are running at a higher efficiency as has been pointed out by GBRU316 already, and that fixture is only a 215 watt fixture at full power. I'd love to see the actual power readings.
A good comparison video i found was this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J57lLmuZNTE
He replaced half of his lighting with an LED fixture. He had to turn it waaaaayyyyyyy wwwaaayyyyyy down, in order to not burn corals, and he's still putting out a ton more par than 2 250watt mh and 2 t5 HO. Being turned down so low means the LEDs are running at a higher efficiency as has been pointed out by GBRU316 already, and that fixture is only a 215 watt fixture at full power. I'd love to see the actual power readings.
That the beauty of LEDs: you can easily reduce the current/lumen of LED from your controller. And no needs to replace the bulb in case of wrong spectrum.... it is a "too much of the wrong kind" thing.
because hundreds of researchers was trying to find the best spectrum for t5 bulbs. And probably you are using special bulbs. You can easily kill your corals with t5 as well - just install cheep daylight bulb. The same logic apply to LED - you just need "correct spectrum" and with LEDs it's much easier to change spectrum, and the best part of it: no replacing is needed....the bulbs don't put out any wrong spectrum anymore...
video how easy to change the spectrum from LED:...except it is only that easy on paper or on a message board... people still burn corals and kill them with LED and the bulbs don't put out any wrong spectrum anymore. You might not like the color of a reef quality bulb, but they are not harmful to the corals.
Sounds about right....
This is why some LED users can have issues with over-lighting corals from above, and under-lighting/shadowing corals from below. I know I had that problem when I was running pure LEDs. I couldn't run them at 100% without bleaching corals, but running them at 60%, I had awesome colors on the tops of corals but mediocre colors on the bottoms and sides. I think this is also why most of the best LED tanks I've seen, like Michael's, are running a very large number of LEDs at a fraction of maximal output.
I'm looking forward to what you come up with.After doing a little thinking and reading through the discussion in this thread, I've just about finished putting together a CAD/CAM model of an LED fixture using reflectors (and 14 different kinds of diodes for a pretty full spectrum) that I think might help address things. If I get around to building it, I'll post my results. I'm in the middle of putting together a 93 cube in my basement that will serve as a species tank for a large host nem, probably H magnifica. I'm setting it up under a single 250w Radium. That tank should make for a decent test bed.
I have posted this before on here and got clowned, so I will keep this brief... my roommate in college is an engineer at Phillips. He has told me before that it is very likely that there are very few efficiencies in lighting unless you are willing to cut spectrum or something else... in most cases spectrum.
Most of the time, you have to turn down the LEDs because they are producing too much of the wrong spectrum... not because there is too much light. I had a tank outside in the summer in Missouri with PAR well over 1300 and that was not too much light. I have had 6x 250W HQI over a standard 120G with par from 900-1000 at half depth and that was not too much light and everything thrived - even LPS and polyps. It is not a "too much" thing - it is a "too much of the wrong kind" thing.