Setting up 180 and floor not level

Nwest

New member
I just had my floor redone with tile and I went to go set up my new 180(hence why the floor got tiled) and it was not level at all . Its off over 1/2 inch the length of the tank. the tile right in the middle is where the problem is and is causing the hump. You could rock the stand side to side. Right now I am trying foam between stand and floor to see if that works. I talked to the guy who installed the tile and he said that he cant make it perfectly level because the tile would be different heights. He says to get the tank level with a few shims then GROUT the stand in place by smashing it under the stand. He said it will get as hard as concert and wont have a problem. I have had this 180 for 4 months now and just want to get it up but dont want to wait, I know it needs to be done right... Hope someone can give me a few ideas or tell me what the best thing to do it. Im getting frustrated......:headwally:
 
My 180 was about a 1/2 inch off on one end. I made two 2 1/2 feet long shims and shimmed it up. Worked perfectly, my tank is 100% level. I painted the shims black to match my stand. No one has ever noticed that they are there.
 
few people have a perfectly level floor to place a tank. i need several shims to get mine level
 
If I shim it it will be shimmed all the around and then going to worry all the weight resting just on shims. And its a good 1/2 inch gap!
 
i would not worry about it. you are gonna put several shims across the space. just dont shim between the tank and stand.lol
 
Pull up the tiles and grind down the bump in the floor. Re-install the tiles. Depending on the size of the tiles it could be 1 or could be 9 tiles that need to come up, probably 2-4 to get the hump out.
 
my tank has been set up for over a year with shims and a piece of extra laminate flooring to fix a gap that was nearly an inch. here is a picture

806576a4.jpg
 
you would obviously need to do a cleaner job then i did. my tank is an inwall with the stand in the fishroom so i was not worried about aesthetics but the shims as long as you put them every inch or so will hold the weight
 
Boy 1/2" out in a 6' span is pretty off, but I do agree shims will work for you as far as leveling the tank, but I also agree there is a chance of tiles cracking if there are pockets, so maybe grab a couple tiles from your tile guy in case they stop production of that tile.
I'm a carpenter, and shims are standard in every cabinet job I've ever been on.
Composite shims may be best for your application.(like trex material)
You can cover w/ grout, but we usually hide it w/ trim or base moulding.
 
the hump in in the center of the tank so basically its like a sea-saw so i would have to shim both sides... is that safe?
 
Boy 1/2" out in a 6' span is pretty off, but I do agree shims will work for you as far as leveling the tank, but I also agree there is a chance of tiles cracking if there are pockets, so maybe grab a couple tiles from your tile guy in case they stop production of that tile.
I'm a carpenter, and shims are standard in every cabinet job I've ever been on.
Composite shims may be best for your application.(like trex material)
You can cover w/ grout, but we usually hide it w/ trim or base moulding.

What he said.......... I used wood shims on a 180 that was off by about 3/8" end to end. After it was about 1/2 full of water I checked level and added shims every 2" at the end and sides of the stand. Then I just hid it with narrow molding at the base of the stand
 
I would have the tiles removed, and repaired. Im sure it just needs less thin set. Fix it right before you set up the tank. Shims are just a band aid. Do it right or dont do it at all.
 
I've been doing this for a long long time. I've moved several times, and moved the tanks around inside more than once as well. I have yet to find a spot that is dead level. If you can't (or don't want to mess with the tile), shim. It's really not a big deal.
 
IMHO, I'd be upset with the tile guy. 90% of his job was prep work. It was his job to make sure the tile was installed properly. I wouldn't accept his answer. Knowing that a tank was going there, he could have made up for irregularities in the floor with the thin set. His answer was the one with less work involved. Nothing aggravates me more than walking barefoot across a tile floor and feeling the different heights in the tiles.

And his answer with stuffing the grout under the stand doesn't work for me. You have a 1/2" difference there. Grout wont stay together at that thickness, with that much pressure.

To just deal with it yourself, do like the guys suggested, and use shims with a trim around the bottom.
 
I agree w/ Ezlight's comment, 1/2" in 6' is pretty extreme, but who knows what the guy had to deal w/, or what budget allowed for.
It's possible that could have been a slab that may have been very involved to correct, which means more $$ put out by OP.
But even if the tile was perfectly level, almost always there will still be some deviations that would call for shims.
I've never seen a cabinet job that did not call for shims on both the floor and wall, standard building procedure, and they can take a great deal of weight.
If it were my tank, I'd shim it and trim it, done in less than an hour.
 
I agree w/ Ezlight's comment, 1/2" in 6' is pretty extreme, but who knows what the guy had to deal w/, or what budget allowed for.
It's possible that could have been a slab that may have been very involved to correct, which means more $$ put out by OP.
But even if the tile was perfectly level, almost always there will still be some deviations that would call for shims.
I've never seen a cabinet job that did not call for shims on both the floor and wall, standard building procedure, and they can take a great deal of weight.
If it were my tank, I'd shim it and trim it, done in less than an hour.

If it were a slab, it wouldn't have been crap to level out a hump. I see it all the time in commercial settings. They have grinders to fix that, the tile guy could have rented one, at what, $60 for the day.

Sorry, I hate contractors, and other skilled tradesmen, that don't take pride in their work. A little more attention to detail in prep work, and maybe $100 more on top of the job, and it would have been done right.

When I walk off a job site, I have complete confidence that no one can pick apart my work at all, and my install is 100%. The guy that writes 6 figures checks to the company I work for every month KNOWS that I did it right, and will back me every time. I can't say that about some of my co-workers. :uzi:
 
the hump in in the center of the tank so basically its like a sea-saw so i would have to shim both sides... is that safe?

Yes it's safe. Or trim the middle. FWIW, almost everyone needs to shim a stand. Your kitchen cabinets and appliances are probably shimmed or use levelers. Your doors, windows and often the frame of your house is shimmed. Proper leveling prevents future leaks.

Jeff
 
My point is we don't know the whole picture or situation.
I don't like Contractors that don't take pride either, but I'm one of the few Contractors that doesn't just bash someone w/out all the details.
I've had too many times when the homeowner was unwilling to fork out the extra bucks to make right, especially in these tight times, and in saying that I'm not saying OP is doing that either, just keeping an open mind to the situation.
My main point is I agree w/ shims are common, used in every home, and will hold up just fine.
Whether the tiles crack or not is another story, but that could happen even if level, so I always advise having a few extra stashed for down the road, as they tend to discontinue certain tiles often.
 
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