Sharkbite!

[fishgate]

I am using SharkBite fittings for some 3/4" plumbing lines. Will the SharkBite fitting reduce the size of the opening? Like go from 3/4" to 1/2" or something like that? I don't have the fittings yet they are on order but they look like they could do this with the inner sleeve that they have.

TIA!

 

[PirateToast]

No, if you ordered 3/4 inch fittings, they will connect to 3/4 inch pipe. They work great.

 

[Lsufan]

I'm not sure if u are talking about the regular sharkbite fittings made for pex or the push connect fittings. If u are talking about the push connect fittings then it will depend on the kind of pipe u are using, but the fittings themselves will restrict flow compared to regular pvc fittings but not by a bunch if u are using pvc. If u use pex it will affect it more because the id on pex is smaller then pvc.

If u are using pex with the sharkbite fittings that actually slide into the pex & u use the pex clamps then it will restrict flow drastically. The id on regular pex fittings are about half the size of pvc. A 1/2" pex fitting has a id of just over 1/4".

If u are talking about the actual sizes of the pipe & not about restricting the flow then like pirate said, a 1/2" fitting will use 1/2" pipe.

 

[Potatohead]

I'm sure there are 3/4" to 1/2" reducers if that's what you're looking for.

 

[fishgate]

Sorry - to be more clear. I am thinking of using 3/4" fittings for 3/4" pipe. I am just wondering what flow/capacity loss I can expect from using the SharkBite fittings over traditional glue or sweat fittings.

 

[homer1475]

I have yet to see any sharkbite brand fittings that aren't brass or copper. Think I would be more worried about the metal leaching then if a particular pipe size will fit.

If they do make plastic sharkbite fittings, disregard this post.

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

 

[fishgate]

I have yet to see any sharkbite brand fittings that aren't brass or copper. Think I would be more worried about the metal leaching then if a particular pipe size will fit.

If they do make plastic sharkbite fittings, disregard this post.

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

This isn't for Aquarium use.

 

[chucklez]

I have yet to see any sharkbite brand fittings that aren't brass or copper. Think I would be more worried about the metal leaching then if a particular pipe size will fit.

If they do make plastic sharkbite fittings, disregard this post.

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

I used some on my returns. Running a 2" main return line with 4 sweep tees to branch to each individual return line. From there I use these (or the 3/4 version). Used the PEX clamp and run it to my return.

 

[Potatohead]

I am just wondering what flow/capacity loss I can expect from using the SharkBite fittings over traditional glue or sweat fittings.

I would think very very minimal

 

[neilp2006]

There is no restriction. If you look at the cross-section of one of these fitting, there are a couple of o rings that flank a metal collar, the inside diameter of which is matched to the outside diameter of 3/4 inch pipe . There is a small tube stop in the middle of the collar, but it is not as thick as the wall thickness of the pipe. Hopefully the pic explains it better




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[ericarenee]

I just did a 10 thousand dollar renovation on a home because of one shark bite fitting that a so called plumber put behind a will in a bathroom ... The customer was out of town when it failed and flooded there whole basement..

Think Twice ... a Torch and soldier is about the same price as two of these fittings..True Pex cinch rings and tool is about the price of 4 of the shark bite fittings. But will do many many more connections for the price..

Just my opinion ..

 

[erndog1001]

I just did a 10 thousand dollar renovation on a home because of one shark bite fitting that a so called plumber put behind a will in a bathroom ... The customer was out of town when it failed and flooded there whole basement..

Think Twice ... a Torch and soldier is about the same price as two of these fittings..True Pex cinch rings and tool is about the price of 4 of the shark bite fittings. But will do many many more connections for the price..

Just my opinion ..

My guess is that it failed bc the idiot who installed it didn't do the job right. I've installed hundreds and would bet my reputation on each one of them. That being said I do agree with what you say about Pex cinch rings .Torch and sodler is yeterdays tech for homes IMHO Never use it unless I'm forced to

 

[ericarenee]

My guess is that it failed bc the idiot who installed it didn't do the job right. I've installed hundreds and would bet my reputation on each one of them. That being said I do agree with what you say about Pex cinch rings .Torch and sodler is yeterdays tech for homes IMHO Never use it unless I'm forced to

its not the first time i have seen them fail.. And i see more and more being used... rubber-0-Rings do not last forever... shark bite says there fittings have a expected life of 25 years..
My opinion they are a CLASS Action suit in the making....

I use only pex as well and sweat pipes to make connection to pex..

 

[Potatohead]

As if copper line/solder or pex doesn't fail either. Anything can and will fail. My house is only nine years old and I just spent last night fixing the shower drain, which of course left an nice stain on our beautifully finished ceiling. Stuff happens.

 

[Lsufan]

I agree with ericarenee. I just fixed a house where a supposed plumber changed out a shower valve but instead of doing it right he used about 5 of the push connect sharkbites. The o-rings will eventually fail & I have noticed any movement of the joint or even the pipes shaking a little can cause them to leak.

Most remodels have copper water lines but I usually transfer over to pex but I use the clamps on the pex. They can fail also but I have never had one do it. I also use the copper to pex adapters so they solder on the copper. I use the same on a shower valve because I don't like putting threaded fittings in a wall eighther.

They seem to work better on a softer pipe like pex rather then copper or pvc

 

[Ron Reefman]

I used shark bites a lot when I was working, and still use them in my own home. I've never seen one fail that was installed properly. At the same time I can't say I've never seen a soldered copper joint fail, or for that matter copper pipe or the old pex that was polybutylene. Anything can be installed wrong or put together poorly and fail.

I had a polybutylene line fail after 25 years in my kitchen wall because it was installed by being clamped to a cinder block wall. Over the years either turning the water on and off or the heating and cooling of the line (it was a hot water line) caused it to rub against the wall and a small pin hole leak was created. The water dripped down behind the wall onto the concrete floor and out under the cabinets. The old pressed wood cabinets sucked up the water like a sponge, starting at the back and slowly moving forward. By the time the damage moved out from behind the drawer cabinet and a corner unit, to where it was visible, 3 cabinets were destroyed from the back side out. $15,000 later I have all new kitchen cabinets and counter tops!

 

[jccaclimber]

Last time I read the directions on a Sharkbite fitting the plastic inserts (which do remove wall thickness) are only needed if you are using them with PEX, not if you are using them with copper or another rigid walled material.

I don't know your application, but copper for a given pipe OD has a larger ID than PEX, so will pass more flow per pressure drop in a straight section. On the other hand, if the PEX allows you to do a lot of gradual curves and you would be using standard sharp elbows in the copper then the overall loss of that piping run may still be lower with the PEX.

 

[ericarenee]

I agree with ericarenee. I just fixed a house where a supposed plumber changed out a shower valve but instead of doing it right he used about 5 of the push connect sharkbites. The o-rings will eventually fail & I have noticed any movement of the joint or even the pipes shaking a little can cause them to leak.

Most remodels have copper water lines but I usually transfer over to pex but I use the clamps on the pex. They can fail also but I have never had one do it. I also use the copper to pex adapters so they solder on the copper. I use the same on a shower valve because I don't like putting threaded fittings in a wall eighther.

They seem to work better on a softer pipe like pex rather then copper or pvc

for shower valves and faucets i always remove the core and sweat copper , i will run 1 to 2 feet what ever is needed to attach it firmly to framing then a copper to pex adapter... for the tub spout and shower head i always use Copper ..

This is how the Licenses plumber i use from time to time showed me , Its how his company does them and they have No Failures or leaks..

I Have him and a licenses electrical/hvac companies. For very small jobs that i am required to pull permits they will do so for me under there license.. i have pulled structural and framing permits for them... Us small companies have to stick together...

So i do things they way i do them because its the Professional and right way..


:beer:

Sorry if i got off topic with my post but i think its important

 

[Lsufan]

I do them the same way except I will solder the pex adapter straight into the valve for the supply lines depending on the valve. But u definitely want copper to the tub spot & shower head because using pex can cause issues.

As far as the push connect sharkbites it's not like they have a 100 percent failure rate. So many people use them with no issues. I would be careful about where u use them because they do have a higher chance of failure then sweated copper or clamped pex.

If u use pex u need to make sure u use pex clamps to anchor it so it doesn't shake or move or u can have a problem like Ron mentioned. A loose line can also cause a leak over time at the fittings.

 

[fishgate]

Last time I read the directions on a Sharkbite fitting the plastic inserts (which do remove wall thickness) are only needed if you are using them with PEX, not if you are using them with copper or another rigid walled material.

I don't know your application, but copper for a given pipe OD has a larger ID than PEX, so will pass more flow per pressure drop in a straight section. On the other hand, if the PEX allows you to do a lot of gradual curves and you would be using standard sharp elbows in the copper then the overall loss of that piping run may still be lower with the PEX.

Well shoot, where were you last week? This was my whole issue that tube reduces flow. Now I might go back and remove the liners.

Q: Can the tube liner be removed?

A: Yes, the tube liner can easily be removed by pulling it past the O-ring, then with the aid of the SharkBite Disassembly Clip or Disconnect Tongs (both sold separately). The tube support liner can drop out of the fittings as it can move freely past the grab ring. Needle nose pliers may be used to pull the tube support liner out.

NOTE: The tube liner is necessary for use with PEX Pipe. It is not required for Copper or CPVC, however, it is not necessary to remove the tube liner from the fitting.