Shoddy Heater - I literally almost died last night

jml1149

New member
Don't tell my wife. She think's I'm accident prone already. There have been a few ambulance trips in my lifetime. This would put her over the edge.

Getting ready to do my water change last night, had been mixing my new water for a day and a half or so, good to go. Salinity checked out, but the water felt colder then I expected. Stuck my fingers in, yeah its cold. Got out my insta-read thermometer and sure enough it was 65 deg. Uh oh. So I reached into the brute bucket of water, pulled out the Marina quartz heater I used just for heating up water change water.

When the heater left the water, I felt a weird vibration between my fingers. I thought to myself, did I reach in and pull out the power head instead of the heater, even though I was obviously staring at the heater. And then I realized that was electricity flowing through my hand. I don't know how long this took, but it felt like a couple of seconds. I immediately let go and dropped the heater back into the bucket. Looking closely, I could see an arc somewhere inside the unit, near the heating element. Holy ef. To confirm I got out my multimeter and measured to ground. Sure enough, 120VAC 60Hz.

The circuit breakers and fuses used to protect us from these types of events. are based on thermal properties. More current flows through an element than expected, it heats up, expands, and trips something off. Or burns up if it's not resettable. In a bucket of water, there's nowhere for the current to flow, so it doesn't trip. But it's ready to flow when the circuit is complete. It's like a loaded gun waiting to go off.

I turned off the power strip and grabbed one of my stray current probes from my tank. Dropped the probe into the tank, turned the power strip back on and the power strip fuse blew immediately.

I've seen plenty of arguments about the need for stray current probes. But this is why you need them. This is exactly why. Luckily I was standing on concrete in crocs (shhhh) and wasn't touching anything else. However, if I was, there's a great chance that the current wouldn't have just been flowing through my fingers, but across my body. And that can be deadly. Literally. Palytoxin dealdly.

My fingertips are a little burned and I can't feel them today. That's the extent. But it could have been so much worse. Just buy the probe and put it in your tank. Anywhere you have electronic devices. They're like 20 bucks on Amazon. I don't know why people argue about these things.
 
And NEVER buy a 'used' heater, or a cheap one. Knockoffs with a poor seal can kill your tank, or burn your house down.
 
Do you have a gfci receptacle or cord hooked up to your tank? A regular circuit breaker won't protect you in an event like this.
 
I'm not sure 120 volts (and 3-4 amps?) from a heater could actually electrocute a healthy person. But always better to be safe around electricity. Glad you are ok!
 
See my recent heater problem.

Why, doesn't anyone make an inline, reliable heater? These stupid submersible heaters are beneath us.
 
I've seen plenty of arguments about the need for stray current probes. But this is why you need them. This is exactly why.

Almost..

This is why ANYTHING that goes into water that carries "high (above 50V)" (aka line or mains) voltages MUST be plugged into a GFCI device...

A ground probe is an additional device that may be used WITH a GFCI device but a ground probe should not be used without a GFCI device.

Due to the resistance of salt water a ground probe "may" still allow current to flow through the water and not trip the breaker.. But if you have a GFCI then ANY current (above 5mA) flowing from line to ground probe will cause the GFCI to operate well before the breaker trips..


So ALWAYS GFCI...
And you may install a ground probe too.. But NEVER without GFCI protection on it..

A ground probes real job is to ensure that the GFCI device operates as soon as an issue occurs.. Its not a replacement for GFCI though..

But yes.. you are lucky to be alive... NEVER put anything into water that you stick your hands in without GFCI protection..
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure 120 volts (and 3-4 amps?) from a heater could actually electrocute a healthy person. But always better to be safe around electricity. Glad you are ok!

With a concrete floor (easy ground) and salt water involved(lowers the OHM's of your skin significantly allowing more current through) yes. Especially if it travels across your chest. That is more than sufficient to put you in ventricular fibrillation (zaps your heart and makes it shake like jello instead of beating). It will not happen every time as it has to interfere in a specific way.
 
I wonder if the GFCI would have tripped in this case, if not for the fuse in the power strip? I could feel the current going through my fingers and there's no grounding prong on the heater, so technically all the current leaving should be finding its way back. Either way, I agree, GFCI and grounding probe should be mandatory for all tanks.
 
I wonder if the GFCI would have tripped in this case, if not for the fuse in the power strip? I could feel the current going through my fingers and there's no grounding prong on the heater, so technically all the current leaving should be finding its way back. Either way, I agree, GFCI and grounding probe should be mandatory for all tanks.

I think you know this just adding the information for others that may not..

A GFCI provides the same amount of protection if the device is 2 or 3 prongs cord..
It just monitors for an imbalance from line to neutral.. It doesn't look at or need the "ground" wire at all..


And IMO.. A ground probe shouldn't be mandatory but a GFCI should..
The problem (not a problem IMO) with a ground probe and GFCI is that the GFCI will trip the instant an imbalance is detected.. That could be when you are away at work,etc... leaving your tank powerless which can cause a quick demise of everything in the tank..
Without a ground probe that "fault" could stay active until YOU become the path to ground..

But I'd rather it do that then risk the a faulty GFCI not tripping when I'm the path to ground..

Thats why its always best to split equipment between 2 GFCI protected circuits.. The chance of both tripping is very small.. And that way when one trips you still have powerheads/pumps,etc.. running in the tank circulating water/oxygen,etc..
 
submersible heaters scare the beejeebees outta me but i still use one.

you wear **gasp** crocks??
 
See my recent heater problem.

Why, doesn't anyone make an inline, reliable heater? These stupid submersible heaters are beneath us.

Man, you just had me thinking on how to do this. What a great idea.

Materials needed:

Length of stainless pipe
Transition pieces for PVC-Stainless
Heat trace. Sized to match your tank needs (Watts per gallon)
Solid state relay rated to handle the current draw from the heat trace
Temperature controller. Either stand alone or Apex, etc.

Wrap trace around stainless pipe, install inline with plumbing somewhere. Probably want the pipe to be a bit longer as not to heat stress the PVC. Depending on what type of trace you use you can limit the temperature.

The only drawback I see is the pipe being stainless. If you are comfortable heating your PVC to 150 degrees I guess you could use PVC, but I personally wouldn't.

Beginnings of a good idea though.
 
they have inline heaters

I don't like this one but it's there. I don't recommend any heater that has it's main heating element shrouded by plastic(like epoxy).
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor--Line-...446629&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+aquarium+heater


I like these
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor--Line-...446629&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+aquarium+heater

Personally I just make sure the top is out of the water. That's where it usually fails and causes electrocution.

Good read on heaters.
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquarium-heaters-what-you-need-to-know!.aspx
 
Last edited:
GFCI for DT....check
GFCI for mixing station :facepalm: Can't believe I didn't put one there.



See my recent heater problem.

Why, doesn't anyone make an inline, reliable heater? These stupid submersible heaters are beneath us.
They make them...the key word is reliable.
 
Man, you just had me thinking on how to do this. What a great idea.

Materials needed:

Length of stainless pipe
Transition pieces for PVC-Stainless
Heat trace. Sized to match your tank needs (Watts per gallon)
Solid state relay rated to handle the current draw from the heat trace
Temperature controller. Either stand alone or Apex, etc.

Wrap trace around stainless pipe, install inline with plumbing somewhere. Probably want the pipe to be a bit longer as not to heat stress the PVC. Depending on what type of trace you use you can limit the temperature.

The only drawback I see is the pipe being stainless. If you are comfortable heating your PVC to 150 degrees I guess you could use PVC, but I personally wouldn't.

Beginnings of a good idea though.

That's kind of what kills me. Heating elements aren't hard to make, Im not why all of these heaters are just garbage. You would think that someone out there would make a huge inline heater, with a controller that plugs up outside the sump via inline feed with easily accessable and replaceable elements.

I mean if my freaking oven can go through daily use of being heated to 400-500 degrees multiple times a day for 20 years, why cant a aquarium heater?
 
Back
Top