Shorter photoperiod = better SPS color?

This problem is pretty simple do diagnose really.....If you have brown corals, either your corals are shocked by some massive change in your tank/shipping, You have too many nutrients in your tank (doesnt seem to be the case, but is the most common cause), and not enough light. Before I upgraded my T5s to all individual reflectors, I too had nice brown colored corals. The new reflectors changed that in a BIG HURRY! Take a look at this post showing a couple of my Digis before and after the good reflectors --> http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=7285572#post7285572
Given that you are running XM 20ks (probably one of the Lowest PAR bulbs avail), that could be your problem. That being said, I am currently experiencing color fading (Fading means less color towards white, not brown) on some of my corals. It appears my T5s are too bright for some, at the photo period I am using. I have since dropped my daylight bulbs to about 8 hours and I may cut it back even farther. I am actually considering changing over to 400w XM 20k on my 75g. Some may be thinking 400w is not necessary on a small tank like that, but when you run 20k, I think it is......Hopefully that helps :P
 
Also FWIW Weast keeps fairly high nutrient tanks(Ecosytem, cryptic zones etc...) compared to the ones lots of people are running now(large skimmers, BB etc...) I have seen several people post in the this forum that they had a hard time getting his frags to keep their color. Just an observation.
Chris
 
My 10K bulb is ordered, I will update the thread in about a month with updates on coloration. Thanks everyone for the input!

BTW Chris, all of your frags are exactly the same color so far. Maybe the frags I got from reeffarmers did get stressed during shipment. I recall that the water temp of that shipment from reeffarmers was 67 degrees when it arrived.
 
I'm sorry I meant Tyree:rolleyes:

I get all those "famous" names mixed up sometimes:)

Glad to hear everything still looks good.
 
dwillingm-

What meter/test kit are you using to measure you nutrients?


Even though XM20K has relatively low PAR, you are still blasting the corals with 400 watts. My guess is the lights are not your issue.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7366544#post7366544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishdoc11
Also FWIW Weast keeps fairly high nutrient tanks(Ecosytem, cryptic zones etc...) compared to the ones lots of people are running now(large skimmers, BB etc...) I have seen several people post in the this forum that they had a hard time getting his frags to keep their color. Just an observation.
Chris

Just curious, but if he runs high nutrients, why would others who got frags off of him with low nutrients have trouble keeping thier colors? I have never heard of a coral browning because its put into a low nutrient environment after being in a high nutrient tank. Typically when that happens, all the sudden the coral colors explode! I know several people will take browned out corals to a zeo tank (low nutrients) for instance and it will over a period of a few weeks turn bright colors.
 
my2girls:

I test for nitrate with salifert.

I test for phospahte with RedSea. I know the Red Sea isnt as sensitive as the Salifiert, but i have a hard time telling the different shades of blue apart on the salifert test. The red sea test goes from yellow to green, and the test is staying completely yellow even after 5-10 minutes. I dont get any cyano algae, and only have to clean a light dusting of algae on the glass every 1-2 weeks. I am pretty sure the phosphates are near zero.

There is alot of conflicting info on the effect of nutrient levels on Acropora. Maybe different species of acropora react differently to nutrient levels.

Is 1 metal halide over a 100 gallon corner tank reallly blasting the corals (the reflector isnt the greatest either)? My liverock goes about half way up the tank, so all the acropora are about 9-12 inches underwater.
 
Horace: Did you change anything else in the tank to induce that color change besides new reflectors? How long were the corals in the tank before you got the new reflectors?

Zapata: How many layers of window screen do you start with? Do you keep the photoperiod the same length?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7369028#post7369028 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dwillingm
Maybe different species of acropora react differently to nutrient levels.
IMO, that's one of the most true statements I've read in a while.
 
Like Mark said....

Just curious, but if he runs high nutrients, why would others who got frags off of him with low nutrients have trouble keeping thier colors? I have never heard of a coral browning because its put into a low nutrient environment after being in a high nutrient tank.


could be answered with......

different species of acropora react differently to nutrient levels.

I have one coral particular that's bright blue in higher nutrients and pale light cream/green with blue tips in low nutrients.

FWIW, Chris
 
I got my 10k Bulb this weekend. I am acclimating with a piece of window screen.

It is a heck of alot brighter then the 20k. I am not sure if I like the look of it though. My zoanthids all look brown now, and most of the corals are not as colorful (even with my 96 watt actinic03). I am going to stick with it for a few months and see if it can bring out some of the blues and purples in my acropora. If it doesnt, then I will go back to my 20k.

Thanks for all the input everyone. I will update the thread in a month or so with updates on any changes in acropora coloration.
 
I really think actincs 03 play a huge roll in keeping Sps colors. What I mean by this is 12hours of 03 light a day and 6 to 8 hours of 10kto20k A day.
I am willing to bet thats tyree secret.
P.s. look at all the great looking tanks on reef central look into there lighting and you shall see the light:)
 
What do you all think about trying to get the best of both worlds to meet the needs of all SPS. Like, stopping a skimmer for an hour after feeding, then resume skimming agressively. This could allow nutrients to pass through the system, skim out and run it clean. Is this possible?
 
What do you all think about trying to get the best of both worlds to meet the needs of all SPS. Like, stopping a skimmer for an hour after feeding, then resume skimming agressively. This could allow nutrients to pass through the system, skim out and run it clean. Is this possible?
 
I think there is a tread dedicated to this salt-rookie and yes it is very possible. Some reefers put there skimmers on only at night and others all day every day.
 
The instructions for DT's Oyster Eggs recommend turning off the PS for several hours after feeding for max effectiveness.
 
Just to add another variable to the stew.....I lowered my Alk from around 10dkh to 9dkh recently and have noticed more coloration in the purple and green department, that had previously browning.....

But had started using DT's Phto again......

more than one change to be certain........
 
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