Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11756504#post11756504 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kimoyo
Cool, Herbie's Silent Overflow System!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=344892&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

What was that 2004? Back then I remember you didn't use the siphon method.


Glad to see you finally decided to use it but you added that 3rd drain, never had an issue with just using two like Herbie mentioned.

Yes, that is a great thread. Herbie had it 99.9% right! We argued back and forth about many concepts, but mostly the failsafe (or lack of) nature of a siphon system. Without the emergency drain, you will have a flood sooner or later. Setting up a siphon and open channel drain without a 3rd standpipe is akin to running on the ragged edge.

The actual water level in the overlfow box does change depending on many variables. The system is very self tuning but can get out of whack. Obstructions in the valved area can occur as the result of algea breaking free. Barometric pressure and slime coats can cause differences in head pressure and friction...

Thanks for posting the link to that old thread, it is full of great iformation, even if some of us have added to our knowledge since that time.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11756559#post11756559 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brackishdude
Do you think you got lucky in finding the right dimensions/geometry to allow good results for your pump (both during operation and ,perhaps more crucially, at dry startup), or do you think the range of successful flow rates is wide?
The range is very wide. I have tested the sytem with 1" standpipes and with the current 1.5" standpipes. The flow of the system has ranged from less than 1000 GPH to around 3000 PGH. I would call that a wide range.

Put another way: It must be tough to generate enough flow at startup to flush out all of the air, while still slowing down the ensuing siphon sufficiently to prevent drainage of the box and creating a never ending cycle of dry startups.
No, if the flow is low enough for a siphon NOT to start, then the flow will be silent. If the flow is high enough for the open channel standpipe to gurgle, then it is high enough to cause a siphon in the closed standpipe.

You need lots of flow at first, but restricted flow once siphoning.
No, the flow volume is constant and dictated by the return pump! See the above answer :)


Again, the system may be quite robust, I just wonder what the limiting flow rates are, especially for a no-worry dry start.
The limiting flow rate WHILE still maintaining redundancy would be a full siphon on BOTH standpipes. This volume is several times what a similar DURSO or other open channel standpipe system could sustain, let alone quietly. You would still have FAILSAFE capacity in the 3rd standpipe.

I don't expect you to know, obviously, but what are your thoughts?
Did that cover it? :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11756915#post11756915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by liveforphysics
I'm glad you aren't having vortex problems Bean. I think you are saved due to the chaos of the water motion entering the overflow area. Even if you did, generaly a disk of plastic above the pipe can avoid them, and that would be simple to retrofit.
Yes a disk near the surface would help if there was a problem. However, the chaos of the water motion coupled with the elbows profile and large open area negate the need for such a fix.

From a velocity and noise perspective, I think valves near the end of the pipe would be optimal, it wouldn't require the use of those beautiful tru-union valves which would reduce plumbing cost as well.
A simple ball valve would work just fine. I prefer to use either true unions or valves+unions anywhere in my system. Valves near the end of the pipe are certainly not a problem. In this (or similar) setup I prefered to have the valves at operator level, not in the cramped sump area. Moving the valves the the end of the standpipes will not hurt they operational parameters of the system and in fact could benefit the setup at LOW flow rates.

This sort of system is absolutely superior to all the durso/stockman/gurgle buster style techinques for getting a tank to be quiet. After people hear how quiet a large reef can be when they come over, they are generally stunned and wondering why there own tanks 1/4th the size are so much louder. Silent overflow designs are the most critical part of getting your reef whisper quiet.
I ageee 100%. Noise was not an option for this setup! I spent to much time and money on the home theater! My skimmer pump (OR3700) is the loudest piece of equipment on my system and it drives me crazy!

Thanks again for the kind remarks luke! My system may not be ideal, but I hope that it is something that others may build upon... just like I (and others) have built upon the ideas of other members of the reefing community like Richard Durso, Ken Stockman and even Herbie.
 
This is very interesting. I have to say that I am baffled as to how water starts flowing down the middle "siphon" standpipe.

I look at it and all I can see is air trapped in the pipe after the downturned elbow is under water. I am just not getting it or are you supposed to cap off the top of that pipe after startup?
 
The trapped air consists of the entire volume of the standpipe. Air is compressable. As the water level in the overflow box begins to rise, the head pressure on that body of water will push it up into that airspace, compressing it slightly. It will then begin to flow over the weir formed by the elbow, bulkhead and tee. Becuse there is no siphon, the water in the overflow box will begin to rise, putting more head pressure on the standpipes. At some point the standpipe will flow enough water over the weir to begin a siphon.
 
wow, what a great idea, do you think this would work on a much larger setup? Just increasing the diameter of the pipe?


L.R.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11773090#post11773090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LoneRanger
wow, what a great idea, do you think this would work on a much larger setup? Just increasing the diameter of the pipe?


L.R.

It would work fine scaled up but there may not be a need to do that. I have a friend that runs 3600gph through two 1" bulkheads using this siphon method. You could add another siphon drain and keep using the other single open channel standpipe and emergency drains since there is a VERY slim chance of BOTH of the siphon drains will be blocked simultaneously. So one emergency could take the entire flow of a blocked siphon and the other could be supported by the open channel if needed. You could flow roughly 5,000 gph through just two 1" siphon drains and if you upped it to 1.5" bulkheads you could probably run 8,000 gph through.
 
Yup... you could certainly add more siphon standpipes if you needed. The systme will always flow more than the same number of durso style standpipes and is much more failsafe. The same basic setup is used in many commercial applications, such as water treatment.
 
While that design will work for someone who wants to run 1500, 3000, 5000 gal/hr through the sump, doing so is stupid and breaks the best design rule, KISS.

your method:
Wastes electricity pumping water up to the display as you need to overcome head preasure,
increase salt creep in the sump,
overly dependent on the pumps in the sump,
limited sump design due to high flow,

I see no benefits!

It is much better to circulate the tank water with either a CL or powerheads and to size the return pump from the sump based on your filtration equipments needs. If your CL or powerheads fail, the return pump will keep the tank alive. If the sump blows up, the CL/powerheads will keep the tank alive. You don't need all the crazy plumbing, a simple level adjusting duruso will work or a 1/2" siphon with 1" open air drain as back-up at 1/4 the cost of your set-up. The sump acts as a settling tank, which you can vacuum! Less heat introduced into the tank.
 
You must be under the assumption that Bean is trying to use the returns as flow in the tank. That is not at all what he is saying here. The statement about increasing salt creep shows that you have no experience with what this thread is talking about since this method will ELIMINATE ANY salt creep you may be seeing by using a Durso and bubbling the water into the sump. I use this method and flow about 800 gph from through two 75g tanks and another pump that is about 600gph from a 92g tank.
It is not about getting more flow at all (that is just a side benefit if you want to use it)
This will eliminate all the noise from your drains, eliminate salt creep and also let you sleep soundly at night KNOWING that there will not be a flood from your only drain being blocked by a random event.

There is no electricity wasted as he is not pumping any more water than he would using a durso standpipe it is simply returning it to the sump more effectively.

The sump design is not limited in any way since there isn't any more flow going through it than he would have if he was using a durso or any other air introducing device that creates noise and salt creep unnecessarily.

If you study the design or better yet visit a local tank using it you will quickly see how much better it is than using a standard standpipe. I personally have 3 different tanks draining into the same sump and refugium. I have a combined flow of about 1800 gph through the sump. There is about 450 gph going through a 140g six foot refugium. I love the siphon method and will never go back to a gurgling standpipe again.
 
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I find your remarks a little rude and it would appear that your intent was to be offensive. Nonetheless, I will respond to your comments in oder to set the record straight for those people who are following along.

Firstly, this is not just a design for a high flow sump! It is (I feel) an improved overflow design that is dead silent and failsafe. It will scale well to just about any size system and flow requirement.

But that (high flow sumps) appears to be the arena that you have framed your comments, so I will respond in that context.

Lets look at them one at a time:
Wastes electricity pumping water up to the display as you need to overcome head preasure,
Not in a low flow situation! It works just the same and can be scaled to any size! However back to your point: Many people desire high flow sumps. YOU may not like the notion, but that does not mean that it is a waste of anything. Yes, it does use more energy to overcome higher head pressures. That alone is not the whole story though. You are making a mistake in assuming that there is no reason to have a HIGH FLOW sump. There are reasons, and therefore the energy usage is not a waste or avoidable. YOU may hold that opinion that it is a waste, but that would be your opinion and based on a narrow set of facts without consideration of the many different types and needs of setups.

There are MANY valid reasons for the use of a high flow sump. Manny people use their sumps as RDSBS, Live Rock filters, extensions of the displays, etc. A high flow sump is what makes this possible. Yet other people do not have room for closed loops and do not like the look of powerheads in their tanks, they choose to get a portion of their flow from the return pump. There are plenty of other valid reasons as well.

increase salt creep in the sump,
That is simply not at all correct. This setup does not introduce air into the sump and therefore does not produce salt creep. I have ZERO salt creep in 2 years of operation. Your making assumptions based in a lack of knowledge about the system. The fact is that the system was designed to eliminate the salt creep and bubble problem!

overly dependent on the pumps in the sump,
And a display with CL pumps is overly dependent on them. Your contention here does not make sense. Whatever pumps provide the life support are going to be depended on.

Secondly, the LIFE in the sump is part of the system in some setups. Lets take my sump for example. It holds 1/2 of the LR and 1/3 of the system water. I have therefore increased my bio-capacity by a large margin. The SYSTEM is dependent on the sump and its high flow, but without the sump (or a low flow sump) the system would not support the same bioload. Your contention is based on a shortsighted opinion and a basic flaw in logic. I.E. you are considering only 1 type of setup as good and therefore the ONLY valid way of setting up a fish tank.

limited sump design due to high flow,
A low flow sump is also limited in design and function as well. Each serves a different purpose. Because a round peg does not fit into a square hole, does not mean that EITHER peg is deformed. Is the Minivan limited in function to the dump truck, or the dump truck limited in function to the station wagon? It is all a matter of need.

I see no benefits!
Because you came here to take a pot shot at my design. Each style of system setup has pros and cons. There are many choices to make when designing a system. You are welcome to your opinions, just make sure that you don't confuse those opinions with fact. You may not see a benefit, but many people do.

It is much better to circulate the tank water with either a CL or powerheads and to size the return pump from the sump based on your filtration equipments needs.
No sir, it is not better. It is one way of setting up a tank. Again, pros and cons abound with any design.

If your CL or powerheads fail, the return pump will keep the tank alive.
And In the converse, if the return pump dies, the CL will keep the tank alive. This has nothing to do with the overflow design.

If the sump blows up, the CL/powerheads will keep the tank alive.
And likewise, if my sump blows up my CL will keep my tank alive. This has nothing to do with the overflow design.

You don't need all the crazy plumbing,
That is your opinion, but the examples you give below indicate that you do not understand this design. The plumbing is not at all crazy. They are as simple (or more so) than a stockman or a durso. They are standpipes. Only (1) needs a valve. The airline can be omitted and the system still MUCH more failsafe than a Durso or Stockman.

a simple level adjusting Durso will work or a 1/2" siphon with 1" open air drain as back-up at 1/4 the cost of your set-up.
There is no failsafe in such a setup. The durso introduces air into the sump and is also a PITA to keep adjusted. Been there, done that, so have countless others. This is not quiet it is DEAD SILENT and has NO salt creep. It is failsafe for just about any kind of clog or mishap and never needs adjusted.

The sump acts as a settling tank, which you can vacuum!
MY sump does act as a settling tank that I can vacuum out. Even if it did not (the flow as you content was too high), there is a popular school of thought that says you want to keep the detritus in suspension until it is eaten or skimmed out. Either way, this is a non argument.

Less heat introduced into the tank.
Watts are Watts my friend. A 140W closed loop pump puts the same heat into the tank as a 140W return pump. The CL pump may flow a bit more due to the lack of head and you could make the heat per gallon of flow argument. However, you need to keep in mind that a sump can serve many purposes depending on the system topology. A low flow sump is not an option in some setups and therefore the point is moot. Also, as already pointed out, this system works for LOW FLOW sumps as well. Watts are Watts and the point is also moot.

This intent of this thread is not to debate the pros and cons of high-flow or low-flow sumps, it was to document a silent and failsafe method of creating an overflow system. I have responded to each of your points and shown them to be poorly supported by the facts. I would hope that we can leave this here.
 
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Bean

I think you did a very good job in replying to this guys comments. I guess you have to expect some to be jealous of the level of design work in you system! In so many threads I see the "you dont need this" or "this is over kill". Well, while I am planning and buying for my setup I always think..... how would SeaWorld do this, not how can I get out the easy way. Please keep sharing your work!

Jeff
 
Bean â€"œ Not much to figure out after your first very detailed post and this:
1) Dead Silent
2) Set and Forget
3) Limit Bubbles in Sump
4) Failsafe to Prevent Floods
5) Easy to Clean if Needed
It’s not like you set this up yesterday. Thank you for posting this. It will be incorporated into my next setup. Oh, and awesome rendering!!! :thumbsup:

Jay
 
Bean:

I have seen people do this very sucessfully with 2. 1 standpipe with ball/gate valve to maintian water level above it and 1 emergency drain set slightly higher. What is the purpose of the 3rd ? Is there a real need for it, if each of you other pipes has enough capacity to handle the water flow. ?

Nice rendering.. does AUTOCAD have a good plumbing parts library ?

sanjay.
 
Thanks for the design, the outstanding graphics, and for taking the high ground when confronted by someone who missed the intent of the thread. This one has been bookmarked.
 
Bean, worst design I've ever seen. Could I see some live pics just incase I set this up on my tank? Not that I would . Are the pipes positioned so that the siphon will stop flowing water when return is off, but still hold the siphon for when it is turned back on? More specifically, do you have to restart the siphon every time? Do you really need the dual overflow? I would think that the siphoned would handle it fine, and of course an emergency on the side. I just hate gurgling....
 
sheesh... it has been well documented that there is no gurgling... I believe "dead silent" were the exact words. I may be wrong but this really isnt a siphon as much as it is just a downward facing neck (inside the overflow). This design doesnt really "lift" the water up and over the rim of the tank. It really just manages the flow/air mix that would be inherent in any pipe leaving a tank. On/off power does not have an affect on this design as I see it.
 
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