Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Status
Not open for further replies.
Bean, looks like it's 50/50 either way. The 1" line to the fuge is on a ball valve and will be pretty slow compared to the siphon. I would think the 1.5" will be flowing enough water to the sump that the 1" divert wouldn't affect the flow too much and I can put the gate valve below the tee and keep it flowing fast.
 
Here is a diagram with the parts labled:
exploded-standpipe.jpg
[/B][/QUOTE]

What does thip piece do : 1.5" NTP x 1.5 slip PVC adapter.

thanks. Shin
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12798261#post12798261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bigtex52
It enables you to join a threaded cap to the pipe. Makes it removable if needed.
Click to expand...

Exactly. So if (when) you need to clean out the fan worms, spirobid snails and other gunk, you can.
 
Hi, great thread.

To taylor it to my setup, what size bulkheads, TUBV's, and piping would you suggest? 450g tank and plan to push about 1500 to 2000 through my overflow (about 3 to 3.5 turnover rate).

I have a case of 1.25" TUBV's available and was hoping they could be used and still maintain that level of flow or better, what do you think?
 
This is a great design and I'm glad I put it into my system. I did however end up drilling the cap on my siphon channel so it would flow open like the other. I found that two 1.5 open channels is more than enough to handle my flow, and with a 25' run on my pipes to the basement sump, I just couldn't get the siphon channel to stabilize. I had to tweak it in combination with the open channel ball valve and also a 2" ball valve at the sump end to get it right, but then any change I made caused it all to go out of whack again. I figure if I end up with a bigger pump I can always close that hole again. Now I have an air hose from both open channels that will create a siphon if needed.

I am REALLY glad I built in that third emergency channel though, it's been used several times.
 
hi all im a newbee and went and drilled my tank at the bottom of the back wall,fitted a corner weir and durso pipe.Im now getting all the bubbles in my sump and it sounds like a dishwasher running. Although the water stays at a constant level inside the overflow chamber i cant stop the bubbles or noise,so my question is can i adapt the bean method to a bottom outlet hole? if not will a ball valve fitted near the sump to restrict the flow help?:confused:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12827725#post12827725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gkyle
This is a great design and I'm glad I put it into my system. I did however end up drilling the cap on my siphon channel so it would flow open like the other. I found that two 1.5 open channels is more than enough to handle my flow, and with a 25' run on my pipes to the basement sump, I just couldn't get the siphon channel to stabilize. I had to tweak it in combination with the open channel ball valve and also a 2" ball valve at the sump end to get it right, but then any change I made caused it all to go out of whack again. I figure if I end up with a bigger pump I can always close that hole again. Now I have an air hose from both open channels that will create a siphon if needed.

I am REALLY glad I built in that third emergency channel though, it's been used several times.
Click to expand...

The "balance" problem is due to the fact that the long runs are not allowing a laminar flow of air and water. I.E. the setup is not a straight drop into a sump. You have in effect created two partial siphons by allowing the air to enter both standpipes.

The valve at the sump end is helping to back the water up and reduce some of the turbulance in the pipe, allowing a more stable flow.

I am glad you got a setup working, even if it is not exactly the same as the setup mentioned in the thread. You can also sleep well knowing that the 3rd standpipe will prevent a flood if things do get out of balance.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12828258#post12828258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by here at home
hi all im a newbee and went and drilled my tank at the bottom of the back wall,fitted a corner weir and durso pipe.Im now getting all the bubbles in my sump and it sounds like a dishwasher running. Although the water stays at a constant level inside the overflow chamber i cant stop the bubbles or noise,so my question is can i adapt the bean method to a bottom outlet hole? if not will a ball valve fitted near the sump to restrict the flow help?:confused:
Click to expand...

The air in the sump is from the durso, that is how it works :)

If you try to restrict the flow of a single standpipe with a ball valve, you are going to end up with a flood.

You will need at least TWO standpipes in the overflow box to implement the "herbie" type setup, or THREE to implement the setup described in this thread.

What size return pump?
 
BeanAnimal,

Would the same size plumbing materials your used, work on my size tank and flow? 450g tank, but only pushing about 2,000 to 2,500 gph through my overflowand sump. As I mentioned above, I have a full case of 1.25" TUBV's that I'm hoping will work with this. If not, then I'll use what I can and sell the rest to pay for bigger one ones.
 
hi again my return is an eheim 3000 running at minimum (1500 l/hr) to reduce noise is this too big? my pipes are 1" to get a second pipe in i would have to drain down the whole tank again and take it to be drilled that is not a good option!
cheers john
 
Masharp, It should work just fine. I am currently using a reeflo snapper as the return pump with about 4' of total head. It is pushing well over 2,000 GPH.

You may want to put a few extra bulkheadas in, just in case you want to increase the flow for some reason in the future.
 
Hello BeAnAnimal,

I have a question for you.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12283124#post12283124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I did not draw the valves, I downloaded them from the manufacturers website. I don't think I have the patience of skills to draw a valve with that much detail.
Click to expand...

Which manufacturere did you download these drawings from? I have been looking for these types of drawings as well, but so far I haven't found any available (at least not for free). I am going crazy trying to do it from scratch.

FYI, I love the design and have already put this into my plans for my setup. Silent and Failsafe are two things I must have or the boss will kick me out.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Thanks MeuserReef,

I've been lurking here and on other forums for a while. I'm in the advanced stages of planning my setup so look for a build thread (or maybe a website) soon.

Bump for my question.
 
I think the model I used is from Cepex. I am not sure where exactly I downloaded it, but the new cepex website has a link to the tracepartswebsite where all of the Cepex parts are available as 2D and 3D downloads. Also the thomas register has cad drawings available for vendors who are listed in the thomas register.

In decades past the thomas registers was THE ONLY place to look for business to business suppliers, the internet changed that. If you go into any shop or manufacturing facility you will see a bookshelf full of thomas register indexes... that is where you found stuff before google!
 
BeanAnimal, with doing this with an external overflow box would you make your holes in the overflow box from the bottom up or from the side in?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

FishMann
Innovative Marine's Bean Animal setup
Replies
6
Views
439
SantaMonica
S
S
Novice Aquarist - Sump & Equipment Questions
Replies
9
Views
344
wvned
wvned
C
Can’t keep overflow box balanced
Replies
2
Views
148
Cruzersmith
C
S
Help with Overflow Design Issue
Replies
0
Views
144
SFMAquariums
S
TreyB381
200 gallon single 2” drain, how would you do it?
Replies
6
Views
1K
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top