Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13293178#post13293178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by danmartis
hey bean i have a few questions for you if you have time to answer.
first of all i decided to go with your overflow system because after reading a couple of times it makes complete sense .
so now this is my setup updated:
55g acrylic
20g long sump
aqua c EV180 with mag 7
i didnt decide on the return pump yet cause i dont know which one its gonna work for me.
livestock:mostly lps
Now my question to you is what size should i use on the pvc to build the overflow system?Bulkheads size?
And what kinda of overflow box should i build?
thank you
Click to expand...

For the 55g acrylic, I would consider using an external coast-to-coast overflow. It will save room in the tank. If you are not comfortable modifying the back of the tank to create the overflow weir, it could still be done by drilling a series of holes.

I would go with the 1" bulkheads at minimum and the 1.25" standpipe for the open channel at least.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13294109#post13294109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by danmartis
and if you can tell me about a place online where i can buy all the plumbing parts
Click to expand...

Lowes carries most of the parts.

For the bulkheads and tough to find stuff...
savko
aquaticecosystems
usplastics
etc.
 
Hey Bean,

I just picked up a 220g tank the other day, and am trying to figure out how to plumb it. I like how this system works on my 90g tank, and would like to incorporate it on the new tank.

I was wondering how you would recommend doing this on the 220. Would I need to go up in size on the plumbing, or incorporate another siphon standpipe?

I would like the overflow box to take up as little room as possible in the display tank. Currently I'm thinking of possibly making it 24" in the center of the tank. Also, I was wondering if it is possible to make it external, or would that be to risky?

I'm guessing the return pump will push between 1,000-2,000GPH.

Thanks.
 
For 1,000 - 2,000 GPH... I would keep it as is. I would make the overflow box at least 48" to get good surface skimming and quiet operation. External on a glass tank can be done, but you will need to have the weir cut into the back panel by a pro (at least i would). If it is external, i would build the box with very thick glass to help brace the rear panel. Thicker glass is stiff and gives a large adhesion surface.
 
The shorter the box, the thicker the waterfall for the same amount of flow. Thicker water and higher velocity means more noise :)
 
I still like the idea of having a very long overflow. The external overflow is something that I would still consider and not rule out until I talked to a local glass shop about the cost to trim the back panel.

If it were me, I would go with 48" or so. The thinner the waterfall, the less likley critters are to go over also.
 
Thanks for the help Bean. I really appreciate it. :)

I haven't seen what your talking about, as far as the external overflow goes. What do you mean by trimming the panel?

Do you have any pictures of an overflow set up this way?

The tank isn't eurobraced, so how would I keep the top supported?

2201.jpg


220testtop.jpg
 
Would you be talking something like this?

I think someone had pictures on the thread a while back, but I can't find them.

plumbing220.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13303609#post13303609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
Would you be talking something like this?

I think someone had pictures on the thread a while back, but I can't find them.

plumbing220.jpg
Click to expand...
In this scenario, could you drill the bottom of the overflow instead of the back? I hope so, because that's the way I'm having mine built. :cool:
 
Bean;

I posted this earlier. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Paul



I like your standpipe/overflow idea. I'll implement in it's fullest when I upgrade and have the luxury of a drilled tank. But for now, my tank is not drilled.

So I have a question for you that I haven't seen addressed as I skimmed through this thread.

Is there a way to implement this in a HOB overflow box or do I have to use a Durso/Stockman standpipe? I want it as quiet as possible.

The overflow and associated plumbing do not exist as of yet, so mods would be easy at this time. In general, I'd like to use the return for all water flow in the tank. I was thinking of using an OM super squirt to get some "random" water movement from the 4 returns.

Let's say I want to use a 1600gph U-tube overflow box with (2) 1.5" drains. Also assume my return pump has excess capacity (such as a reeflo dart). The nature of the HOB beast won't allow a third emergency drain, right?. I haven't come across a slick way around this yet. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Is it a bad idea to use your siphon method where the sump feeds are below the surface of the sump water in this case?
Would this siphon method be able to pull more flow than 1600gph through the drains?
Would that be asking for trouble?
 
Paul:

I thought I had answered you :)

Yes, it will work in a HOB. The standpipes will need to be in their own compartment of the HOB that is seperate from the U-Tube. That will prevent the two siphones from effecting each other.

The OM is a great device. You will be pleased.

An emergency drain is not going to be possible with respect to the actual display tank when an HOB is used. A latching relay circuit and some float switches could be used to kill the return pump at the critical water level.

I am not sure about your last question but I will take a stab. I think you are asking me if the system will work if the standpipes are terminated deep into the sump (I.E. through the bottom side wall). No, it will not work well :)
 
Twisty, that is the basic idea. You may have to do some custom work on the brace. The REAR panel will be super braces by the external overflow, but the front panel still needs to be braced as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13306549#post13306549 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Twisty, that is the basic idea. You may have to do some custom work on the brace. The REAR panel will be super braces by the external overflow, but the front panel still needs to be braced as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks Bean.

I'm not sure how I would go about bracing everything, and not sure I want to open up a can of worms, so I'll more than likely just go with an internal box.

It shouldn't take up that much room. My current box extends 4" into the tank, and I left myself room extra room for moving around in it. On a 24" deep tank it shoudn't even be noticeable.
 
Quick question... Does it matter where you locate the valves?

Would I be able to place the valves down low on the lines, so I could access them from underneath my stand, or would this cause problems?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13309780#post13309780 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tswifty8
Quick question... Does it matter where you locate the valves?

Would I be able to place the valves down low on the lines, so I could access them from underneath my stand, or would this cause problems?
Click to expand...

No, you should be able to place the valve down low :)
 
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