Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

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40" should be fine.

Yes... drilling the open channel hole a bit higher will force water through the siphon first. In a small sump, the water level can rise several inches during a power outage. The deeper the siphon discharge pipe is submerged, the harder it will be to start.
 
Has anyone successfully fed their skimmer from their siphon channel?
(for some reason I can't quite visualize what Bean has done since he mentions an overflow AND a pump)

I have an AquaC EV-180 that needs about 700gph to operate properly. I'm considering using my Mag-7 which formerly drove the skimmer as a return pump instead. Would this configuration work given 1" plumbing? Seems to me that I could eliminate a pump, decrease some heat, and feed the skimmer "surface" water.

If I up-sized the return pump, could I also divert some of the siphon channel directly to the sump to tune it?

Thanks again,
Jeff
 
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Jeff, I think a few people have done what you are asking.

I feed my skimmer from a min-jet that sits in the overflow box. The skimmer is taller than the tank and can not be gravity fed.
 
The Aqua-C line needs a powerful pump to force the water through the air injector to create the bubbles. I doubt this gravity-feed (even under full siphon) design will work on this skimmer. There are certainly other skimmers (recirc style) that this will work much better on.

But as they say, give it a try and see what happens and report back. Though you may get a better answer in the Aqua-C users thread:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...67964&perpage=25&highlight=aqua&pagenumber=33
 
You are not going to be able to feed a Beckett or downdraft injector from the overflow. You could feed the skimmer that had a recirc style downdraft or Beckett.
 
Question:

I put all the fittings together and it sticks out 7" from the wall..... Where my tank is going this would look really cheesy...

SOOOOO..... Rather than using the T's coming out the back of the tank what about this? sorry I dont know how to do CAD or anything like that! =0)

<a href="http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/qq210/jusbechillin/?action=view&current=exploded-standpipe.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq210/jusbechillin/exploded-standpipe.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Also what is the purpose of upsizing the pipes to 1.5" considering its a 1" bulkhead? Thanks!
 
Also do you think I have enough slots cut for the water to flow through?

<a href="http://s448.photobucket.com/albums/qq210/jusbechillin/?action=view&current=2097.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i448.photobucket.com/albums/qq210/jusbechillin/2097.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Okay so I see why you use the t with a threaded cap as I read back through the pages..

Would there be any reason running 1" pipe throughout would harm the performance?

I am trying to find a way to buy a couple inches back against the wall....

Maybe if I could find a T or even a 90d Elbow that would thread right onto the outside of my bulkhead... That would eliminate the threaded piece that connects the bulkhead to the 1" pvc & the bushing also...

The big question is if I would be harming anything just running 1" throughout. Thanks!
 
i'm pretty sure he is using 1.5" plumbing because there isn't (or he couldn't find) 1" sanitary tees.

as others have stated you can use elbows rather than tees on the siphon and emergency overflow drains, not the open channel though.

the strainers you have on there aren't really necessary IMO. if anything i'd strain the water at the overflow, less chance of clogging. I am going to put a piece of eggcrate over my overflow box. this eliminates clogging of the overflow since if something gets stuck water just moves over or to the side of the overflow box.

HTH
 
The 1.5" plumbing in the open channel standpipe allows a larger air:water ratio to help prevent noise and gurgling. For modest return pump sizes siphon (and emergency) standpipe can be reduced to 1" or less (based on overall flow). Sorry but I have not done the testing to tell you what the max flow for each size of pipe is.

I prefer NOT to use eggcreate as an overflow "lid" because any fish "going" over is going to land on the lid and die. The ideal setup would be a guard that created a long 1/8" or so slot to keep fish from entering the overflow box.

I am not sure how well the strainers above will work. Do you feel that the total OPEN area created by the slits is equal to the cross section area of the pipe? The slits are kind of high up on th pipe, they could draq in air via a vortex very easily.

As for saving space, yes you can use a elbow instead of a Tee, but you will need to drill and tap it for the air line. A Tee and an Elbow should not be much (any) different in width. You may find a threaded "street" elbow that threads directly into your bulkhead though.
 
What is everyone using to glue thier coast to coast in place? with a 48" lenght, thats like floating a battle ship. Would silicone be enough to hold it in palce and not rip off the side of the tank due to the box trying to float?

Even though it is not a direct silent failsafe question, I am posting here because the box is part of it. If thats not cool, let me know and I will ask the mod to remove it.

Thanks.
 
A glass overlfow in a glass tank should be secured with silicone. I am not a fan of trying to use silicone to adhere acrylic to glass. For an acrylic tank the overflow should be set in place with a chemical weld (weld-on solvent).

Bean
 
Hey bean, whats up? Yea, i forgot to mention it is a glass tank, I always forget some detial somewhere, lol, thanks.
 
Bean, I'm building my overflow box and was planning on having an eggcrate lid. Thanks for the 'heads up'. I'm now thinking of putting an eggcrate on the vertical side piece. Thanks for all the time you are spending with the rest of us. Jim
 
Bean, it's me again. I'm using 1 1/4" fittings but the poen channel standpipe couldn't be firected down at the buldhead but had to be offset 6" for the tee and airline. Question: should I also install an airline on the elbow that leaves the bulkhead? Jim
BTW, on the overflow shield, instead of eggcrate I installed a acrylic plate 1/4"above the weir to avoid fish from entering the overflow box. Thanks again.
 
When you get a chance and pop back in Bean, I also have a question. I drilled my 3 holes in the back, but, when I drilled the middle hole, the cutter walked on me and I did not catch it till too late. Now, I have the middle hole 3/16ths to 1/4" lower than left or right. Does it matter? Can I still use middle and left for primary's or should I just make my middle the safety overflow and be more cautious next time?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13903306#post13903306 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimnrose
Bean, it's me again. I'm using 1 1/4" fittings but the poen channel standpipe couldn't be firected down at the buldhead but had to be offset 6" for the tee and airline. Question: should I also install an airline on the elbow that leaves the bulkhead? Jim
BTW, on the overflow shield, instead of eggcrate I installed a acrylic plate 1/4"above the weir to avoid fish from entering the overflow box. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Not quite sure I understand what you are explaining. In any case, the air intake can be at the top of the vertical standpipe (assuming I somewhat understand what you described).

Bean
 
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