silicone drying time, with pics

[supernareg]

is 18 hours enough dry time for silicone glue? it feels pretty hard i just siliconed acrylic to a 20 gal long glass tank and made compartments....

this was done 10pm last night, i wanna start putting water and transferring stuff today, at about 6pm.

R = return, F = fuge, S = skimmer
and there are baffles between fuge and return

 

[818]

Ive done 8hrs. 18hrs is good to go!

If those are 1/8th acrylic sheets it wont last you long especially if your going to be pushing over 600gph(Most overflows drain out 600gph) through that thing. Plus you used very little silicone.

Mine bowed in about 2 days, on one of my 1st sumps ever made. Then it was down hill from there.

Started using 1/4th acrylic on my new sump, and all the ones Ive built for reefers.

 

[DRC69]

I think to fully-cure it's about 24 to 48 hours.
I would wait.
JMO

 

[supernareg]

i'll be putting LR rubble between the baffles and will support the sides of the other acrylic pieces with bigger pieces of LR, just to give it support.

 

[818]

Those baffles will not get the bowing.

The 2 main ones will bow and eventually pop off the silicone.

The 1st skimmer compartment one will bow, and the last one in the Return area. Those 2 are more than likely going to pop off their sealent.

Sam

 

[818]

Look at my pic. I filled it up with Hawaiin rock after those pics when it was running for support. The pressure will all go to the edges(sealent) and it will pop off.

The last thing you want to do is take the sump out, reconstruct it in a running system.

GL.

Sam

 

[supernareg]

so how can i support it?

 

[818]

You cant. You will have to brace it but then your skimmer wont fit or your return pump.

1/4th acrylic wont even bend if it were the cuz size of those pieces.

1/8th is just to brittle.

Home Depot sells 3x3 pieces of 1/4th for 13bux+tax. One piece will be enough for your sump.

Leave the 1/8th baffles in and replace the 3 main ones with 1/4th.

 

[supernareg]

too late, the baffles are very well supported with live rock, there is no place to break / move. i think they'll do just fine.

 

[®eefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8183096#post8183096 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by supernareg
too late, the baffles are very well supported with live rock, there is no place to break / move. i think they'll do just fine.

LOL. Post up pics once it falls apart.

 

[carman9941]

sorry I have to agree with reefer, and its better to do it now than have to rip your tank apart if and when they do come loose. it wont hurt anything but you will get tired of micro bubbles REAL FAST, IMO

 

[Tobman]

So is silicone glue the best thing to use?

What about Weld-on Acrylic glue by IPS?

 

[818]

If its acrylic to glass use Silicone window and door II (clear)

If its acrylic sheets to acrylic tank Weldon.

 

[Tobman]

Doesn't the Silicone window and door II have a fungicide in it. It says on Home Depot site that the GE brand has "BioSeal-mold and mildew product protectant" - might be a problem eh?

 

[818]

No they dont. Probably another product? DAP?

They gaurantee not to chip or break when applied correctly, fungicide and mildew free. Isnt that what it says on every bottle?

 

[818]

Anyway Ive been using it on my 60g reef, wich is now my sump for over a year with no ill effects. Some say it turns yellow? Mine still good, water is good. SPS are doing good.

 

[Tobman]

The GE brand has fungicide in it, according to Home Depot and Lowes. Not sure about the DAP brand.

Home Depot

Lowes

 

[®eefer]

Just use the Silicone that says "Aquarium Sealant". IT's $4.99, bought some at Ace last night.

 

[Tobman]

So the Aquarium Sealant works to glue acrylic to glass well?

 

[818]

It doesnt say on either of those link that this product has fungicide? Or am I missing something here.

Reefer, yup those work well too. But its easier to get a sump done when you use a caulk gun.