Silicone for inside aquaria

TypicalNoah

New member
Hey y'all -

I have some GE Silicone II with "BioSeal mold & mildew protection." I assume this means some kind of antifungal stuff in the silicone; the instructions say 'not for aquarium use.'

Is this really true, or paranoia? Does anyone have experience using various silicone sealants? Please advise...

Cheers!
 
is the GE-I good for sumps? I was just going to buy it but wasn't 100% if that was what people normally use. Last time I bought the aquarium stuff it was 4x the price...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15459955#post15459955 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MattShack
Not aquarium safe. You can use the GE I, it doesn't have the bioseal.

Now Matt, you know I am going to argue with you over this.....:) the only reason that junk is in common usage, is because it can be had at home depot. The right stuff can be had just as easily, for a couple bucks more, and it is known that the right stuff, IS aquarium safe. Common usage does not make it safe, GE does not say it is safe, clearly on the label: NOT FOR AQUARIUM USE. GE (Actually Momentive Performance Materials) makes most of the silicones used to build tanks and such, and these products have no proviso stating "not for use in aquariums", so this statement, is a fact statement, rather than a liability thing. Is GE I causing problems? It is not known, for one would not trace the problem to the silicone, rather blame it on something else. So much for common usage.

For aquarium use, you want a strong adhesive silicone, that is NON-toxic, 1- part, acetoxy cure. GE I is a sealant, and it is not FDA approved for food contact. The ones that should be used, are. This applies to sumps, as well as tanks. Time to get out of the dark ages.

The right stuff can be had at Grainger's. And the price is reasonable.
The Dow Corning "DAP" Aquarium Sealant in the small tube is overpriced (due to small quantity--marketing, well.......)

Options:

Momentive (GE) RTV100 series (103 and 108 most common) avail. at Grainger's)
SCS1200 (best) (GE/Momentive)
GE/Momentive 1000 series
Waiting to hear back on the IS800 series (FDA approved also, available at Grainger's)
Aqueon/AGA brand
Dow Corning 732, and 999A (good for sumps--not as strong as the others)

Jim
 
:lol: I knew it was coming. You know I agree with the best ones to use are in your list. Mine was just a short answer right before I got offline. :lol:

The others you listed are obviously the best ones to use.

+1 on what jim said :D
 
I used the GE I with no ill effects yet,but it does say on the tube"not aquarium safe".....I will say though,if some other kind of silly cone adheres better,it must soak into the glass and the epoxy :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15461341#post15461341 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by redtop03
I used the GE I with no ill effects yet,but it does say on the tube"not aquarium safe".....I will say though,if some other kind of silly cone adheres better,it must soak into the glass and the epoxy :D

Am certain, but not going to go look for it, there is a silly cone that will bond glass and fiberglass together better than the RTVs etc. But I bet it will not be reef safe.............100% silly cones are not created equal, and there are as many formulations, as there are uses for it. And the good stuff does indeed adhere better than the low price spread :D

Jim
 
Dow Corning 999-A is an absolute great silicone to use. If you can find non expired GE 1203, in my opinion that would be the best.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15461420#post15461420 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
Am certain, but not going to go look for it, there is a silly cone that will bond glass and fiberglass together better than the RTVs etc. But I bet it will not be reef safe.............100% silly cones are not created equal, and there are as many formulations, as there are uses for it. And the good stuff does indeed adhere better than the low price spread :D

Jim

for the way that I used the GE I,bonding wasn't as critical as it would be in an all glass build,for my build it mostly serves as a gasket,the water pressure holds the glass firmly to the wooden frame......in an all glass build,I would strongly suggest using the intended stuff

I used the GE I because several of the plywood tank builds I've read about used it too,it hasn't caused me any problems yet......I also have a 30g tank that developed a leak,I cleaned the old silly cone off around the leaking area on the inside and redid it with the GE I,it worked great,but the old silly cone was still holding the tank together,I just stopped the leak :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15463519#post15463519 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nauticac4
Since we are on the subject how long would you let it setup before you got it wet.

I waited 36hrs,I think in an all glass construction they recommend 2 or 3 weeks,but I'm not sure on that....
 
while it may not be "intended for aquariums", I am pretty sure that i have heard that GE1 is ok and that GE2 is not as it contains other items for the mold etc.... I also recall that the southdown sand from years ago said "not safe for aquariums" that it was basically the same sand that was indeed packaged as aquarium sand......just way cheaper....

my theory is this...ask and read your responses....there will be plenty of people that play it by the books and buy everything that is legit for fish tanks....they must be either rich or LFS owners....lol....but there will be some people that think it is safe to put anything in your tank...just determine if enough people think it is safe and then ask yourself if it is worth it.....i normally say yes and cut the corners as i don't have billions to spend, but enjoy the hobby.

from my experience you can save a ton of cash by finding alternatives to the fish marketed stuff....ie pickling lime....baking soda and plenty of other things that are basically the same as the labeled and packaged stuff that is 4 times more expensive.
 
for what its worth, dow corning 999-A is a neutral cure silicone, and much, much, much...did i say much, stronger than the all glass stuff

If you could get a Big Name tank builder to tell you what silicone they use, you will hear one of two things

Dow Corning 999-A

or

GE 1203/GE 1000 Contractor Series


By the way, the 999-A costs about 3 bucks a tube
 
The stuff I recommend is not sold in the aquarium industry (Other than the Aqueon/AGA) It is all FDA approved for food contact, and much stronger and more suited to the task, than GE I. The stuff I recommend is not expensive enough, to warrant being rich to afford it. The "calling" of GE I is not that it is inexpensive, rather you can get it from Home Depot, Lowes what have you, and for the right stuff, you have to go around the corner to Grainger's, or online. Just because people think it is safe, does not make it safe. Further, I am not "directly" empolyed in the "LFS" industry, which is responsible for more HOOEY, than you can imagine, I am not rich. You will not save money buying junk. IIRC, there was something about the southdown sand having a petroleum product in it, NOT FOR USE IN AQUARIUMS. GE I-- NOT FOR USE IN AQUARIUMS Momentive/GE RTV 108 does not say that. Just a couple dollars more. Yes you can save money, finding alternatives to fish marketed stuff (look at my sig), but make darn sure you know what you are buying and why.

End of rant of the day.

Jim
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15463203#post15463203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uncleof6
This one is on my list up there.... Aqueon/AGA.

J

Just seconding the recommendation. Wasn't trying to step on your toes. I was hoping that it might inspire more pictures of the silicone tubes so I might recognize them in the store.
 
Eh, Ge1 is totally fine for aquarium use. I have used it in the past, and I know many tanks have been made with GE1, so regardless, what some may say, it works fine. It may not be FDA approved as an NSF product, but regardless of the "not for aquarium use" lawyer speak, it works just fine.
 
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