Sinistard's 68.8 Acrylic Tank Journal [Photo Intense]
- Thread starter Sinistard
- Start date
MileHighFish
New member
Thanks Nick, They have a good site and the forum helps with ideas, I have to admit the OM are more reasonable then I would have thought.
Sinistard
New member
Thanks Greg.
I got my OM used from a local reefer. I ended up saving a good bit but it is definitely in less then mint condition. It took a bit of extra work to get it running 100% but with the money I saved it was worth it.
Overall it is a fairly simple design with not a lot to fail so I expect to get years of use out of it. Also I talked to Paul at OM and he was super helpful with the problems I was having. I would highly recommend one any of his products based on the OM I got and his customer service.
painkiller1009
Member
Thanks for the gfo.
Was a pleasure seeing your set up also.
Was a pleasure seeing your set up also.
Sinistard
New member
Well I have decided to stop living on the edge and add some redundancy to my auto top off system.
Right now it consists of a float valve in my sump being fed from a 1/4" bulkhead around 5" below the water level in a 30 gallon rubbermaid trash can I use as a fresh water reservoir. The reservoir has a float valve that is fed directly from my RO system. With this set up if the if the valve in the sump failed I would potentially end up with my RO system pumping water into the sump.
There is a bit of safety built into this set up. It was actually inadvertent that it worked out this way. I emptied out the reservoir one day then the next day I noticed that I did not have any top off water making it to my sump. The inside of the bulkhead in the 30g has a 10" long pieces of hose that aims down and if the water drops to far the hose will lose syphon. If it loses syphon it generally does not start back up on its own, I have to suck water back down the line. I would not trust this to work 100% since the bulk head is below the water line the syphon could start back up on it's own.
I guess to make it 100% safe from to much water making it into the sump I could put the bulk head above the water line in the reservoir and run a hose 10 inches of so under the water level then start the syphon, if the water in the reservoir ever fell below the hose it would lose syphon and could not start back up on it's own since the hose would come into the reservoir above the water line. Set up this way I would never get more then a couple gallons of water into the sump in the event of a float valve malfunction. The down side would be if I was out of town and the syphon failed the tank could go days without being topped off.
To remedy these issues my plan is to simply add a float switch slightly above the level of the float valve that is connected to a solenoid. The solenoid will shut off the water going to the sump in the event the the float switch is triggered. I will probably add a timer to the solenoid that will only be on for maybe 15-20 minutes every couple hours to allow my RO system to run for longer periods of time to avoid TDS creep. I guess potentially both the float valve and switch could fail but I think that is fairly unlikely
I will probably leave the bulk head where it is in the reservoir but remove the hose to avoid a syphon and the chance of it not starting back up.
I was looking at McMaster-Karr at solenoids and was wondering what my best option was.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7877k5/=hq790
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5489t41/=hqndg
The first one is 1/8 but I guess I could get an adaptor. The second one has 1/4" quick connects built in but is 2 times as expensive.
I also need a float switch and was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for a good one. I think I will just go with a 120vAC solenoid so I need a switch capable of switching AC power.
Any critiques on my idea or suggestions are welcome.
Right now it consists of a float valve in my sump being fed from a 1/4" bulkhead around 5" below the water level in a 30 gallon rubbermaid trash can I use as a fresh water reservoir. The reservoir has a float valve that is fed directly from my RO system. With this set up if the if the valve in the sump failed I would potentially end up with my RO system pumping water into the sump.
There is a bit of safety built into this set up. It was actually inadvertent that it worked out this way. I emptied out the reservoir one day then the next day I noticed that I did not have any top off water making it to my sump. The inside of the bulkhead in the 30g has a 10" long pieces of hose that aims down and if the water drops to far the hose will lose syphon. If it loses syphon it generally does not start back up on its own, I have to suck water back down the line. I would not trust this to work 100% since the bulk head is below the water line the syphon could start back up on it's own.
I guess to make it 100% safe from to much water making it into the sump I could put the bulk head above the water line in the reservoir and run a hose 10 inches of so under the water level then start the syphon, if the water in the reservoir ever fell below the hose it would lose syphon and could not start back up on it's own since the hose would come into the reservoir above the water line. Set up this way I would never get more then a couple gallons of water into the sump in the event of a float valve malfunction. The down side would be if I was out of town and the syphon failed the tank could go days without being topped off.
To remedy these issues my plan is to simply add a float switch slightly above the level of the float valve that is connected to a solenoid. The solenoid will shut off the water going to the sump in the event the the float switch is triggered. I will probably add a timer to the solenoid that will only be on for maybe 15-20 minutes every couple hours to allow my RO system to run for longer periods of time to avoid TDS creep. I guess potentially both the float valve and switch could fail but I think that is fairly unlikely
I will probably leave the bulk head where it is in the reservoir but remove the hose to avoid a syphon and the chance of it not starting back up.
I was looking at McMaster-Karr at solenoids and was wondering what my best option was.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#7877k5/=hq790
or
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5489t41/=hqndg
The first one is 1/8 but I guess I could get an adaptor. The second one has 1/4" quick connects built in but is 2 times as expensive.
I also need a float switch and was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for a good one. I think I will just go with a 120vAC solenoid so I need a switch capable of switching AC power.
Any critiques on my idea or suggestions are welcome.
melev
Well-known member
How much can the reservoir hold, total? How long does that last before it can't supply the tank any longer?
It would be better to turn on your RO/DI system for several hours twice a week, than to turn it on daily. TDS creep comes from units turned on and off frequently, rather than letting them run non-stop for a good duration.
My own reef uses up 5g of water daily. My top off can hold up to 20g of water, but I simply top off 15g every three days. As soon as those jugs are emptied into the reservoir, I have the RO/DI system on refilling those jugs (1 hr 20 mins per jug) for that afternoon or evening. Once they are full, I store them in sealed in the pantry until the reservoir needs refilling. Three days later, the cycle repeats.
It would be better to turn on your RO/DI system for several hours twice a week, than to turn it on daily. TDS creep comes from units turned on and off frequently, rather than letting them run non-stop for a good duration.
My own reef uses up 5g of water daily. My top off can hold up to 20g of water, but I simply top off 15g every three days. As soon as those jugs are emptied into the reservoir, I have the RO/DI system on refilling those jugs (1 hr 20 mins per jug) for that afternoon or evening. Once they are full, I store them in sealed in the pantry until the reservoir needs refilling. Three days later, the cycle repeats.
Sinistard
New member
It holds around 20gallons. I have never tested how much water evaporates from my tank every day but it is quite a bit probably close to 5gallons.
I could do it that way but I tend to lean more toward an automated solution. I am looking to use the solenoid more as a safety then anything.
Thanks for the ideas.
I could do it that way but I tend to lean more toward an automated solution. I am looking to use the solenoid more as a safety then anything.
Thanks for the ideas.
melev
Well-known member
You can definitely stay with your current plan. I would just add a cut off either before or after the RO unit to turn off the water. Your job is to turn it on every three days, and when the reservoir is full, turn it off again. That way it is only on for a specified amount of hours twice a week, limiting any possible unwanted floods. Turning it off at the source for 5 days a week is a smart move.
Sinistard
New member
I found that my finnex titanium heating element is putting out some voltage into my tank. How did I find out you ask...well i have a couple tiny scraps on my hand and I stuck it in my sump without any shoes on and got a bit of a shock.
I tried using my multi meter to read the voltage in my sump but there must be something wrong with it or I could not get it grounded well enough because I never got a consistent reading out of it. I ended up just sticking my hand in the water to feel for voltage while unplugging one thing at a time
It took me like 2 hours to narrow it down to the heater but I am fairly certain it was the culprit.
Does anyone have a good suggestion on a heater that will not crap out on me. I currently run the 300w finnex and a 250w Jager heater with a Medusa temp controller. I actually just picked up a AC3 and will be using it to control the temp once I get it all set up.
Also what does everyone think about using a grounding probe. I have read they are a great idea and I have read that they are a bad idea.
I tried using my multi meter to read the voltage in my sump but there must be something wrong with it or I could not get it grounded well enough because I never got a consistent reading out of it. I ended up just sticking my hand in the water to feel for voltage while unplugging one thing at a time
It took me like 2 hours to narrow it down to the heater but I am fairly certain it was the culprit. Does anyone have a good suggestion on a heater that will not crap out on me. I currently run the 300w finnex and a 250w Jager heater with a Medusa temp controller. I actually just picked up a AC3 and will be using it to control the temp once I get it all set up.
Also what does everyone think about using a grounding probe. I have read they are a great idea and I have read that they are a bad idea.
melev
Well-known member
Try reading over this discussion that we had earlier. It should help provide a little more food for thought:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14379573#post14379573
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14379573#post14379573
Sinistard
New member
Thanks for the link.
Today I did a bit more testing to see exactly what was going on with the stray voltage.
So from the looks of it I have a maxi jet 1200 in my frag tank that is leaking voltage as well as the titanium finnex heating element.
I also figured out why I was not getting any reading on my multi meter, apparently the finnex heater works as a grounding probe when its not on. If it is plugged in and I had the Medusa turned off I wound get a reading of 0 on the meter, I happened to unplug the heater and then I got a reading of around 27volts and was able to narrow it down to the power head. If plugged the heater back in it dropped it back down to 0.
With the power head unplugged and the heater plugged in I still got a reading of 0 on my multi meter but if I stuck my hand in the water I got a bit of a jolt still so I assume that the heater was leaking voltage. I don't know why I could feel the voltage but the multimeter could not pick it up. I would assume that if I could ground it the multi meter should have been able to.
Anyways with the power head unplugged and the heater unplugged I get a reading of around 7 volts (although I cant feel any voltage with my hand) so I am still getting a bit of voltage from something so I will have to do some more testing.
Today I did a bit more testing to see exactly what was going on with the stray voltage.
So from the looks of it I have a maxi jet 1200 in my frag tank that is leaking voltage as well as the titanium finnex heating element.
I also figured out why I was not getting any reading on my multi meter, apparently the finnex heater works as a grounding probe when its not on. If it is plugged in and I had the Medusa turned off I wound get a reading of 0 on the meter, I happened to unplug the heater and then I got a reading of around 27volts and was able to narrow it down to the power head. If plugged the heater back in it dropped it back down to 0.
With the power head unplugged and the heater plugged in I still got a reading of 0 on my multi meter but if I stuck my hand in the water I got a bit of a jolt still so I assume that the heater was leaking voltage. I don't know why I could feel the voltage but the multimeter could not pick it up. I would assume that if I could ground it the multi meter should have been able to.
Anyways with the power head unplugged and the heater unplugged I get a reading of around 7 volts (although I cant feel any voltage with my hand) so I am still getting a bit of voltage from something so I will have to do some more testing.
Sinistard
New member
I did some more testing and I have one other maxi jet that is feeding my carbon and GFO reactors that is leaking around 4 volts and the light over my sump/fuge and MHs contributes around 3 volts when all on.
Even with every bit of equipment off I still get a reading of 1 volt in the sump.
I also tested the finnex to be sure it was leaking voltage by plugging it in with no other electrical time on and it still read 0 on my multi meter but would give me a jolt if I stuck my hand in the water. I decided to test the idea that it was grounding the tank by bending the hot and neutral plugs on it over and then plugging it in with just the ground and sure enough I could plugged every leaky piece of equipment in and get a reading of 0 on my multimeter. The funny thing is if I have it plugged in as a ground I still can feel a bit of a jolt with my finger where I have a small scrape. If I unplug the ground I feel nothing. So I guess there is either something internal in the heater that is askew or I have less resistance then the heater and am getting a zap when it is plugged in as a ground. It is a very odd situation and unfortunately my knowledge of electricity is to novice to completely understand it.
Regardless I plan to replace the heater and the 2 power heads to get the voltage as low as I can. I will probably eliminate the one going into my reactors by plumbing them into the iwaki I have feeding my frag tank. I have to throttle it back now so I can spare some flow. For the extra flow I was adding with the power head in the frag tank I might just try a new power head to see if it does not leak voltage.
I still don't know what I will do about grounding the tank, maybe I will get a probe and test it out.
Kind of a frustrating problem since it's been so hard to diagnose and understand. I really have not seen any adverse effects to my inhabitants, maybe removing the voltage will make things look even better. Anyways off to the fish store to spend some more money
Even with every bit of equipment off I still get a reading of 1 volt in the sump.
I also tested the finnex to be sure it was leaking voltage by plugging it in with no other electrical time on and it still read 0 on my multi meter but would give me a jolt if I stuck my hand in the water. I decided to test the idea that it was grounding the tank by bending the hot and neutral plugs on it over and then plugging it in with just the ground and sure enough I could plugged every leaky piece of equipment in and get a reading of 0 on my multimeter. The funny thing is if I have it plugged in as a ground I still can feel a bit of a jolt with my finger where I have a small scrape. If I unplug the ground I feel nothing. So I guess there is either something internal in the heater that is askew or I have less resistance then the heater and am getting a zap when it is plugged in as a ground. It is a very odd situation and unfortunately my knowledge of electricity is to novice to completely understand it.
Regardless I plan to replace the heater and the 2 power heads to get the voltage as low as I can. I will probably eliminate the one going into my reactors by plumbing them into the iwaki I have feeding my frag tank. I have to throttle it back now so I can spare some flow. For the extra flow I was adding with the power head in the frag tank I might just try a new power head to see if it does not leak voltage.
I still don't know what I will do about grounding the tank, maybe I will get a probe and test it out.
Kind of a frustrating problem since it's been so hard to diagnose and understand. I really have not seen any adverse effects to my inhabitants, maybe removing the voltage will make things look even better. Anyways off to the fish store to spend some more money
melev
Well-known member
Most of the heaters we buy do not have the ground connected. While your cord may have a ground prong, the green wire inside the heater may be going nowhere. People have posted this as well as pictures in the past. Nice huh?
Removing stray electricity is good for you, and your fish. Tangs may suffer (or display) HLLE due to stray voltage in the tank. Getting it as low as possible is ideal.
Removing stray electricity is good for you, and your fish. Tangs may suffer (or display) HLLE due to stray voltage in the tank. Getting it as low as possible is ideal.
Sinistard
New member
Well I eliminated all but like 4volts from my tank (started close to 40). I think the remaining voltage is caused by lights. I did add a grounding probe and with it installed I get a reading of 0 on my multimeter so I guess it'd doing it's job.
The weird thing is I can still stick my finger in the sump with the grounding probe in place and feel the slightest zap. With the probe out I don't feel a thing. I don't feel anything in my display, fuge or frag tank just the sump.
On a positive note I got my Aqua Controller III hooked up and running. I think I got the programing all set and it seems to be working good. I think I will have to break down and buy a second DC-8, I can do it with the one but I had to leave a few things off and double up some others.
If the aqua controllers temp prob is accurate I was running my tank closer to 76 degrees with my old Medusa controller when I though I was up around 79. I tested the water with several different thermometers and they all gave me different readings so I don't know which one is the most accurate. I decided to just go with the AC3 settings. I set it to 77 for now and might bump it up a bit over then next week or so.
I might have to add another heater, originally I had the 300 watt finnex and a 200 watt jager and it keep up fine. Now I have 3 200 watt heaters and it struggles over night to keep the temp up. We have our thermostat set to drop to 62 overnight and the last couple nights I had to raise it up to 70 so the tank heaters could keep up. I guess the finnex put out some good heat, to bad it was shocking my tank.
The weird thing is I can still stick my finger in the sump with the grounding probe in place and feel the slightest zap. With the probe out I don't feel a thing. I don't feel anything in my display, fuge or frag tank just the sump.
On a positive note I got my Aqua Controller III hooked up and running. I think I got the programing all set and it seems to be working good. I think I will have to break down and buy a second DC-8, I can do it with the one but I had to leave a few things off and double up some others.
If the aqua controllers temp prob is accurate I was running my tank closer to 76 degrees with my old Medusa controller when I though I was up around 79. I tested the water with several different thermometers and they all gave me different readings so I don't know which one is the most accurate. I decided to just go with the AC3 settings. I set it to 77 for now and might bump it up a bit over then next week or so.
I might have to add another heater, originally I had the 300 watt finnex and a 200 watt jager and it keep up fine. Now I have 3 200 watt heaters and it struggles over night to keep the temp up. We have our thermostat set to drop to 62 overnight and the last couple nights I had to raise it up to 70 so the tank heaters could keep up. I guess the finnex put out some good heat, to bad it was shocking my tank.
Sinistard
New member
After doing some testing and then stabilizing things better I have definitely noticed some improved growth of my SPS. I have been taking a shot of 4 or 5 of them every night for the last 22 days. I did miss a few night.
Here are a couple shots of the 2 where you can really see some growth over the last 3 weeks. I did not line up the shots as well as I would have like some times but it turned out pretty well. It should be pretty cool to see this over a few months.
Animation over time
Day 1
Day 18
Animation
Day 1
Day 18
Here are a couple shots of the 2 where you can really see some growth over the last 3 weeks. I did not line up the shots as well as I would have like some times but it turned out pretty well. It should be pretty cool to see this over a few months.
Animation over time
Day 1
Day 18
Animation
Day 1
Day 18
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