Well it depends on the density of the teflon tape. I usually use low density, where three wraps seems to be just right.
As for thread sealant, I like to use the Spears Blue 75. Not sure if most HD type places would carry that though.
I've used Teflon tape and paste. Paste is easier up front, but if you need to take the assembly apart, the paste is messy to clean up and remove before you can reuse the fittings. Tape is a little more work, but removal and re-use is simpler.
Just my personal experience.
PVC fitting manufacturers say do not use Teflon tape, Teflon paste, or pipe dope. All these things are designed for and intended for use with metal pipe, due to metal having a tendency to gall without a lubricant. This is interesting, because it makes everyone that uses Teflon tape on plastic fittings, all the "licensed/bonded" plumbers ("they all do it" retort,) that use Teflon tape on plastic fittings--wrong. Similar to electrical work, what is common practice, is not necessarily the right way or even legal, not that I am raising code matters here.
Tape, even 1 wrap, adds to the strain and tensile stress. Adding to this, the tendency of plumbers and most recommending the use of tape, to suggest or use multiple wraps of tape--increasing the strain even more, sends folks even further off track.
Paste and dope, just like the tape, make the threads more slippery, begging to be overtightened. Tapes and hardening compounds will create a leak path, simply by the expansion due to temperature changes, flexing or if you back the fitting off.
With PVC tapered threads, it is not about how tight you can get it, mondo Godzilla arms turning it past the point it would lock up, without a lubricant, sinking the fitting in till all the threads are engaged, and ending up with hose clamps on your pump volute. It is about thread engagement (4 - 6 threads is usually sufficient--depends on the quality of the fittings) Hence with tape, you are starting out with less thread engagement, and the more you put on it, the less thread engagement you have, it leaks, so you tighten it, creating even less thread engagement because the female fitting is being forced away from the male fitting. Over tightening the fittings will also deform the threads, short of breaking the fitting/housing, making it even harder, if not impossible--to
ever get a good seal.
No matter how tight you make a tapered thread join, there is still going to be a leak path. (the gap between the peak and valley.) Non-hardening thread sealant is designed to block that leak path, being pushed into the gap by water pressure, without interfering with the thread engagement. Thread engagement provides the greater portion of sealing.
So how tight is tight enough? Hand tight is a rather ambiguous value, so how about "finger tight, plus hand tighten another thread or two?" The lock up point of dry fittings, is a starting point. The fittings won't lock up with the thread sealant on them, because unfortunately, they do lubricate the fitting, inviting over tightening. grrr However, that "tight enough" spot, will be within a thread or two of that point, usually; a thread or two past the point where jerking the fittings away from each other, results in no movement.
As for clean-up, well...
I have a better idea though: call Reeflo and discuss it with them. You most likely would not accept what I have to say anyway. 
