SLR camera

Brandon's shots rank up there with the pro's..I love looking at his works..

And yes Newegg is a must for just about anything electronics..
 
Second what brandon said about the lens. If you plan to shoot indoors (kids events on stage etc), the newer cameras have better high iso performance. Also some more advanced features like remote flash support isn't on the lower cost bodies.
 
It looks like your main plan is taking pictures of your kids at there sporting events and general pictures and tank pictures second. So keep in mind the higher the megapixels on whichever camera you chose the better especially if down the road you decide a picture you took of one of your kids at there game would make a nice poster. Pascal the T3I has the capabilities to do remote flash and yes it is a nice feature.
 
Yeah I am planning one buying a new lens hopefully. I am selling a bunch of aquarium stuff but can't tell anyone until 50/90. Teaching diving and going back to school is going to kill me but if I can get the money a new high end lens is in the future.
 
What is a good Canon compatible Everyday Lens? How Versatile is the 100mm? Or is it best to go with an 18-270mm and call it a day?
 
What is a good Canon compatible Everyday Lens? How Versatile is the 100mm? Or is it best to go with an 18-270mm and call it a day?

You can't really get a single lens for everyday's job. Its 100 2.8 is great for portrait but not enough for sports. the 18-270 is a good sunny day lens for travel but not good for indoor or low light. You have to ask yourself what are you mostly taking. I think if you are starting but not want to break the bank, I would get a 50 1.8 and then a kit tele like 55-200.
 
All 3

All 3

Unfortunately the real answer is all 3 lenses. The kit 18-55 is good for like an indoor birthday party, the longer 18-270 is more for outdoors where you may want something much further away and the 100 macro is reall good when you want to get a big shot of your new 3polyp zoo frag. There really is no 1 perfect lens... It's more about being perfect for the situation. I actually use the kit lens most... When I was on vacation in Disney world I borrowed a 75-300 and it worked great for action shots and rides. I've also been lucky enough to have a 100 mm macro that I can borrow for coral shots... It's actually tricky to use but when you get a really good shot it's great. It's definitely worth trying to budget for an additional lens... They actually hold their value better than the cameras.
Dave
 
Awesome info here. Thanks guys.

Why is a larger mm lens better for action shots? I'm just trying to wrap my head around all this stuff. Are there any good links out there? Photography for dummies so to speak.

Also, why are some lenses ie: 100mm f/2.8 $599 and another one that has an "L" after the 2.8 $1049?

And why is there almost a $1,000 difference between a 17-55mm f/2.8 lens and an 18-55mm f/5.6 lens?

A lot of this just doesn't make sense to me.
 
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Why is a larger mm lens better for action shots?

The larger the mm the closer the subject appears. Action usually means sports or similar which you can't always get close to so you need a higher "Zoom" to get the image you are after.

Also, why are some lenses ie: 100mm f/2.8 $599 and another one that has an "L" after the 2.8 $1049?

"L" glass is basically Canon's version of higher quality glass used in the lens which gets better photos. Usually used by professionals. This is Canons explanation:
"these lenses use special optical technologies [such as] Ultra-low Dispersion UD glass, Super Low Dispersion glass, Fluorite elements, and Aspherical elements to truly push the optical envelope."

And why is there almost a $1,000 difference between a 17-55mm f/2.8 lens and an 18-55mm f/5.6 lens?

Simply, the lower the f# the less light that is needed while maintaining the same ISO. Say you are shooting a Baseball game at noon, the 5.6 will do just fine. Say you are shooting a game at dusk, the 5.6 will be very dark while the 2.8 will still come out decent.

I know it's a lot more technical than this but it gives you an idea of what it all means and why.

Hope this helps a little.

Oh, and please don't get caught up in the "Higher megapixel = Better Prints" debate. There are other factors involved that make this not exactly true.
 
Ive only had experience with Canon whitch ive upgraded over the years.The deciding factor between the Nikon & Canon was that our old lenses (90's era) were still usable going with a new body,so we went with an at1.

Ive got 3 daughters in sports, and use 55-250mm IS.The "IS" image stabilizer is a big help and makes a noticable difference when zooming.The farther you zoom the worse control you have with shakiness,ime.Might want to consider it when looking at telephoto type.

On the macro topic, I use it for familly photo ,sport group shots and other still target photos ,yep like my tank when you want to make a tiny image lifesize.I use a dedicated fixed macro lens.i.e-100mm f2.8L IS.
The "IS" may help but judging from photos I ve taken with it (without a tripod) and looking at photos form others who have the same lens without "is",its not as useful as a tripod.Just my opinion though.

Though I have no experience with using one ,Ive seen pics occasionaly where a poster was using a cheap macro attachment that screws on over a normal lens,from the pics Ive seen looked impressive,but like I said no experience with using one.
 
The larger the mm the closer the subject appears. Action usually means sports or similar which you can't always get close to so you need a higher "Zoom" to get the image you are after.



"L" glass is basically Canon's version of higher quality glass used in the lens which gets better photos. Usually used by professionals. This is Canons explanation:
"these lenses use special optical technologies [such as] Ultra-low Dispersion UD glass, Super Low Dispersion glass, Fluorite elements, and Aspherical elements to truly push the optical envelope."



Simply, the lower the f# the less light that is needed while maintaining the same ISO. Say you are shooting a Baseball game at noon, the 5.6 will do just fine. Say you are shooting a game at dusk, the 5.6 will be very dark while the 2.8 will still come out decent.

I know it's a lot more technical than this but it gives you an idea of what it all means and why.

Hope this helps a little.

Oh, and please don't get caught up in the "Higher megapixel = Better Prints" debate. There are other factors involved that make this not exactly true.

Listen to what he says he has taught me a ton just talking to him. Thank you Paul
 
I went to Rowe photo today and fell in love with the Tameron twenty something - 270mm lens. So nice!!! I really like the Canon T2i but wouldn't mind something of the same quality but used. Seems that no one is selling canons.
 
I have a canon that i will part with ..Its a Canon Rebel XS with ef-s 18-55is kit
and a ef75-300mm lens bought it a target believe it or not ..have all the reciepts
and box ,software ect ..8 gig card, padded bag ..hardly used ..
also bought the 3 year service plan ..I never use it and dont no how to run it ...
I bought a nice sony point and shoot that fits in my pocket ...
well over 800.00 spent ...will take 550.00
looks brand new and i have had it for around 5-6 months..
 
Wow, Ray. That was really cool to read. Thank you!

Magdelan, you can always keep your eye out on Craigslist but you can't be sure what you are getting of course. I sold someone my D40 here on RC when I upgraded to my D90. I'm sure if you are patient you'll find a good deal on something you want.

Once you pick something up everyone can help ya through the RAW vs Jpeg dilemma, filters and more. LOL
 
well my father in law gave me his canon eos rebel T3i and 2 lenses for almost nothing now looking at the canon web site on how to use it.the 1 lens is a ef-s 18-55/3.5-5.6 is II,and the other is ef-s 55-250 f/4-5.6 is
 
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