Smite's Stout CDA- 205g acro dominant system
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Smite
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Awesome input James, thanks!Love the dimensions and your frags are doing great.
I think I mentioned when we met up that I moved my DT sump to the garage over the summer. While it took a great deal of time and planning it was worth every second. I was able to automate more of the manual work plus no mess/noise in the house (wife loves this). Here are some details which should be similar to an outside sump:
- My house is on raised foundation so I was able to drill through floor and go underground
- Sump placement in the garage about 20 ft from DT. Used a combo of SCH 40 and 80 parts from BRS
- Was a bit concerned about the distance so decided to buy a new return pump. Turns out I did not have to worry a Syncra 3.5 was more then enough (old pump)
- Had to tear out the stairs to the garage so that I can get the plumbing into the garage. Rebuilt the stairs so that there's a hollow underneath for the pipes/plugs/cables
- I have a tube that goes outside to the backyard drains for easier water change. Best thing ever. Just a turn of a switch and the water goes out.
- I placed an A/C unit near the sump, along with two other tanks for the summer. I have a fan on the sump as well. I have 3 Eheim heaters in the sump but planning to get one more since it's getting pretty cold in the garage (~50 degrees and will go down to 30's later)
- The sump is on an old workstation that came with the house. I had to extend the width of the table to hold the sump and another tank. The elevation facilitates a lot of manual work as well as better view of the sump vs. under a stand.
Best,
James
I'm on a slab but I'd literally be going just through the wall to outside. I really like the idea of the sump be elevated and I could do that, probably around 24' and still get good drainage.
It does sound like it would end up costing more power, I guess that would be the sacrifice. I have a pool so I'm in that top tier no matter what but really try to keep my bill under the $400 mark and that aint easy! Though our lows probably stay 10F above yours and the highs probably the same difference, low a bit lower.
Smite
Member
I have seen a few in my time and all had huge heating bills
That's what I'm worried about.
In the winter I was thinking it may help me out during the day since I'll be running MH over the display. Hell maybe I'll just put a frag tank out there too and run 250w MH over it at night, lol. Get a little return on the heat.
I don't think summer would be too much worse than it is indoors.
I've also noticed how much heat all my electrical puts off, between the ballasts and apex itself my E cabinet is very warm. That could offset the temp if the housing was insulated enough, but then maybe I'll just be dealing with insane evap/condensation at that point? I could house the E in its own enlcosure to protect it but also blow the hot air out to the sump area, probably a waste of time though.
I'm leaning just keeping it under the tank for now.
Smite
Member
Yeah I'm still considering it. It would be nice but I'll have to get a solid game plan going for it first.
Smite
Member
Good looking out John, thank you!
Smite
Member
Man, it's gonna be hard to resist working on a bathroom over this. I'll probably be plumbing the tank between primer and paint coats
23749B22-1902-4C8A-99DB-C74FEF460E49
DE9FD05E-3F2B-4070-88CF-D536739C5C7C by Matthew Schueneman, on Flickr
Man, I wish I was better at carpentry. I'd love to replace my mantel with something I could tie into the stand of the tank better.
Do you all leave space between the wall and tank for seismic activity?
23749B22-1902-4C8A-99DB-C74FEF460E49DE9FD05E-3F2B-4070-88CF-D536739C5C7C by Matthew Schueneman, on FlickrMan, I wish I was better at carpentry. I'd love to replace my mantel with something I could tie into the stand of the tank better.
Do you all leave space between the wall and tank for seismic activity?
Smite's Stout CDA- 205g acro dominant system
Paying attention to this!! Looks great loving the dimension on this tank. Did you go with CDA wood wraps as well?
I'm pretty much following your lead just about doing the same style of build myself
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Paying attention to this!! Looks great loving the dimension on this tank. Did you go with CDA wood wraps as well?
I'm pretty much following your lead just about doing the same style of build myself
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited:
Smite
Member
Nice! You'll love the DD dims.
Ya know, I didn't go with them. I know they do great work but a) I was trying to keep costs down and b) I plan to make a floating canopy for this build. I'm not 100% sure exactly how that's going to go so it would have been a roll of the dice to have them prefab something for both to have it all match. Also I did some real simple ones for my 180g and I think I'll be able to make some nice looking ones with a similar technique with magnets.
That was my same option but I am kind of sold on having a nice shaker style wrap.
Like you I was looking into the 8020 to create a floating fixture. Reached out to framing tech with specs but they are pretty busy.
I was looking at EMT conduit as well, possible another type of option for you
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Like you I was looking into the 8020 to create a floating fixture. Reached out to framing tech with specs but they are pretty busy.
I was looking at EMT conduit as well, possible another type of option for you
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Smite
Member
I sourced some left overs for 80/20 from a local reefer. So my plan is basic frame from 80/20 mounted to the 2 walls above the tank. It will be higher, around top of window to top of canopy. Then I want to build a removable skin for it. The part that I'll have to deal with once I get there is figuring out how to make some inserts for the floating canopy for watching TV and having guests over to completely cut out light spill. I have a few ideas but not sure what will be most functional. Debating between a hinged type system with counter sunk magnets to hold it up when folded or just straight magnets. I worry about hinges above a tank.
Smite
Member
I made some progress between paint coats in my bathroom.
I stole the plywood sheet from the tanks pallet and made a platform under the tank. 2 coats of kilz primer and topped with flat white rattle can.
1A1403A3-66FD-4E5A-8B42-7F02D4F74B60
I got some of those felt pads and placed them on the stand's metal frame where the plywood goes. I'm hoping that will eliminate any vibration noises if I do end up running the sump inside. I also cut some of those garage floor puzzle tiles to fit the area to help more with potential sounds/vibrations.
DB74F7AE-9F65-4788-BC55-AC124B217F0C
I got the frame done for my light rack. It worked out well and is very sturdy. It wont have much weight, 2 mh reflectors and 4 kessils. I want to try to keep the skin real light and removable which is why the front section is wide open. Incase I need to get back to the corners I'll be able to lean in. The canopy skin will be 14" so about where those anchor pieces are, the reflectors are 8" so hopefully that will cut down on a decent amount of light spillage.
553E8959-A565-49C6-90F8-DE003CB76F88
I stole the plywood sheet from the tanks pallet and made a platform under the tank. 2 coats of kilz primer and topped with flat white rattle can.
1A1403A3-66FD-4E5A-8B42-7F02D4F74B60 I got some of those felt pads and placed them on the stand's metal frame where the plywood goes. I'm hoping that will eliminate any vibration noises if I do end up running the sump inside. I also cut some of those garage floor puzzle tiles to fit the area to help more with potential sounds/vibrations.
DB74F7AE-9F65-4788-BC55-AC124B217F0C I got the frame done for my light rack. It worked out well and is very sturdy. It wont have much weight, 2 mh reflectors and 4 kessils. I want to try to keep the skin real light and removable which is why the front section is wide open. Incase I need to get back to the corners I'll be able to lean in. The canopy skin will be 14" so about where those anchor pieces are, the reflectors are 8" so hopefully that will cut down on a decent amount of light spillage.
553E8959-A565-49C6-90F8-DE003CB76F88
Smite
Member
Thanks guys.
Yea, the plan is to "skin" that as a floating canopy type deal. I'm trying to figure out a way to have it be removable without being an eyesore. I was thinking knobs with t-nuts that fit those channels, so quarter turn then I could pull straight out and remove it. But that might look goofy. I could do powder coated flat heads but not a fan of needing to use a tool around glass if I don't have too. I don't see myself needing to remove them often, so that may be the way to go, not sure.
I'm also trying to brainstorm the best material to do it out of, I need to keep it light. Maybe box out some 1/4" plywood like a hanging closet door is made out of with a few cross supports to keep it true? Sounds like a lot of work though.
I was thinking these lumenbright pendants were 16x16 but they are 20x20". Coverage is going to be insane, they'll almost be touching to stay within the bracing footprint. It is going to make it a little bit of a challenge to mount the supplemental kessils, so now I'm planning on using those goosenecks and attaching them to the 80/20 so I can place them wherever they fit/work.
Yea, the plan is to "skin" that as a floating canopy type deal. I'm trying to figure out a way to have it be removable without being an eyesore. I was thinking knobs with t-nuts that fit those channels, so quarter turn then I could pull straight out and remove it. But that might look goofy. I could do powder coated flat heads but not a fan of needing to use a tool around glass if I don't have too. I don't see myself needing to remove them often, so that may be the way to go, not sure.
I'm also trying to brainstorm the best material to do it out of, I need to keep it light. Maybe box out some 1/4" plywood like a hanging closet door is made out of with a few cross supports to keep it true? Sounds like a lot of work though.
I was thinking these lumenbright pendants were 16x16 but they are 20x20". Coverage is going to be insane, they'll almost be touching to stay within the bracing footprint. It is going to make it a little bit of a challenge to mount the supplemental kessils, so now I'm planning on using those goosenecks and attaching them to the 80/20 so I can place them wherever they fit/work.
Smite
Member
Yes I was thinking about the standard white ones, sched 40. I think they sell it at lowes.
