Smite's Stout CDA- 205g acro dominant system

Are you thinking about using those flex PVC for the drain and return? I always thought about what would happen in an earthquake with all of these hard piping, and especially with external overflows. I know you have internal overflows, so that is safer.

I was thinking of doing a section of the drains and all of the return to the bulkhead. I like that movement will be absorbed but also they don't step down flow like a barbed fitting does. I would use that for sure on external for the exact reason you mentioned.
 
great choice on using a white sump. Mine was built in black. never again. Its hard to see how dirty it is and if anything fell in it by accident. when it is white you can see the dirt and know when to clean it.
 
great choice on using a white sump. Mine was built in black. never again. Its hard to see how dirty it is and if anything fell in it by accident. when it is white you can see the dirt and know when to clean it.

Very true! My current bashsea sump is dark grey and I have the same issue. Maybe this will force me to keep it a little cleaner!
 
Mocking up the reflectors, 14k Aquamaxx 400w in there, running on lumatek selectable ballasts. The coverage is everything I wanted, very even looking. I read these are narrow beam but man, they seem to spread pretty far out if you look at that wall.

I'm torn a bit. I think I'll have to skin all the way to the tank (working on removable insert ideas to keep it a floating canopy when wanted) cause the spill is pretty blinding on the couch. The wife isn't stoked on the overall height, so we will see what I can do :)
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You may need to lower your reflectors a bit to avoid spill. Good news is you can run a perimeter of LEDs along the wall and floating canopy.

Once you get water in the tank the spill will probably change so I would wait to build your canopy.
 
You may need to lower your reflectors a bit to avoid spill. Good news is you can run a perimeter of LEDs along the wall and floating canopy.

Once you get water in the tank the spill will probably change so I would wait to build your canopy.

You're right. I based my canopy height off an old reefkeeping article, but misread they height of their par tests. Right now the lip of the reflector sits at 16", but the article was 16" to bulb above water line so I'm about 4-5" high right now. I may lower the whole setup by 4", I think I'd still have plenty of room to work in there. It may make the whole thing look less beastly.

I mocked up the used a360s I've been collecting, one popped within five minutes of running @ 100%. I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow, hopefully it was some kind of fail-safe self shut down, but I did hear a click. The fan aspect has me rethinking those, maybe I'll be going for orpheks or those same Ebay led strips I ran with my spectra. Man, a spectra would be saving me a whole lot of headache right about now, :)
 
You're right. I based my canopy height off an old reefkeeping article, but misread they height of their par tests. Right now the lip of the reflector sits at 16", but the article was 16" to bulb above water line so I'm about 4-5" high right now. I may lower the whole setup by 4", I think I'd still have plenty of room to work in there. It may make the whole thing look less beastly.

I mocked up the used a360s I've been collecting, one popped within five minutes of running @ 100%. I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow, hopefully it was some kind of fail-safe self shut down, but I did hear a click. The fan aspect has me rethinking those, maybe I'll be going for orpheks or those same Ebay led strips I ran with my spectra. Man, a spectra would be saving me a whole lot of headache right about now, :)
Depends on the previous owner(s) if they kept them clean? Take it apart and use some compressed air to clear it out. The older ones overheat with too much dirt in there, so cleaning them once a month is a must. The newer "x" version is a lot better, but still needs to be cleaned once a month with compressed air. Anything with a fan in SoCal needs to be cleaned more frequently. I get a warning on my controller for the lights that are overheating, which means I need to clean them more frequently (especially when I keep the windows open).
 
Depends on the previous owner(s) if they kept them clean? Take it apart and use some compressed air to clear it out. The older ones overheat with too much dirt in there, so cleaning them once a month is a must. The newer "x" version is a lot better, but still needs to be cleaned once a month with compressed air. Anything with a fan in SoCal needs to be cleaned more frequently. I get a warning on my controller for the lights that are overheating, which means I need to clean them more frequently (especially when I keep the windows open).

Well that's good to know. Hopefully it's not toast then and just needs a cleaning. I think they had been sitting for a while so I'm sure they are dirty inside. I'll get them a once over tomorrow and see if it'll turn back on.
 
You're right. I based my canopy height off an old reefkeeping article, but misread they height of their par tests. Right now the lip of the reflector sits at 16", but the article was 16" to bulb above water line so I'm about 4-5" high right now. I may lower the whole setup by 4", I think I'd still have plenty of room to work in there. It may make the whole thing look less beastly.

I mocked up the used a360s I've been collecting, one popped within five minutes of running @ 100%. I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow, hopefully it was some kind of fail-safe self shut down, but I did hear a click. The fan aspect has me rethinking those, maybe I'll be going for orpheks or those same Ebay led strips I ran with my spectra. Man, a spectra would be saving me a whole lot of headache right about now, :)


Ya know, Richard has those 3' Geismann LED/T5 hybrids he's selling, I think 3 of them"¦ he's practically giving them away"¦..



Hell NO! Team Halide!!!!!
 
Ya know, Richard has those 3' Geismann LED/T5 hybrids he's selling, I think 3 of them"¦ he's practically giving them away"¦..



Hell NO! Team Halide!!!!!

That's right! Nah, if I wasn't halide I'd be going powermodule.

If I can't get the hood to work how I want I'll be using the reefbrite mh/led hybrid on my current tank. I just really don't want to try to light 38" with a 9" wide pendant if I can avoid it.
 
That's right! Nah, if I wasn't halide I'd be going powermodule.

If I can't get the hood to work how I want I'll be using the reefbrite mh/led hybrid on my current tank. I just really don't want to try to light 38" with a 9" wide pendant if I can avoid it.

I am underwhelmed with my reefbrights I've spoken with the owner at lengths and he swears there are multiple peaks but they only seem to make my corals pop one color"¦. That said, as the tank is staring to recover 9 months later, I am starting to seem more colors with the reefbrights"¦.I guess the jury is still out. Also, if you want dimming, don't buy their dimming module. It's an aluminum case with way too much cable and a $19 0-10Vmodule available from your local supply house. You know how to wire it so no point in paying for the plug-n-play connectors.
 
I am underwhelmed with my reefbrights I’ve spoken with the owner at lengths and he swears there are multiple peaks but they only seem to make my corals pop one color…. That said, as the tank is staring to recover 9 months later, I am starting to seem more colors with the reefbrights….I guess the jury is still out. Also, if you want dimming, don’t buy their dimming module. It’s an aluminum case with way too much cable and a $19 0-10Vmodule available from your local supply house. You know how to wire it so no point in paying for the plug-n-play connectors.

I thought they were all one color as well but if you put some shades or reef shades on and look towards the diodes you'll see at least 2 but maybe 3 different colored diodes.

My XHO aren't as bright as I thought they'd be with 2. I first noticed when trying to take pictures, it was hard to even get a picture to register with a filter on, not sure what's up with that. Do yours pack a punch as far as brightness?
 
I mocked up my canopy 5" lower, that was too low to be able to service the tank in the back corners. I'm going to drop it 3", that'll get me closer to what I want but still be workable.
 
I spent a few hours mocking up skins for the canopy and coming up with different ways to make it removable for maintenance. I'm scraping the idea altogether, I think it's just going to be a pain. That will result in me not keeping up on the tank.
 
I spent a few hours mocking up skins for the canopy and coming up with different ways to make it removable for maintenance. I'm scraping the idea altogether, I think it's just going to be a pain. That will result in me not keeping up on the tank.

Yeah, keep it simple. Have you thought about using self closing hinges?
 
Yeah, keep it simple. Have you thought about using self closing hinges?

So the tough part is the space to my television at that height. No room to really swing anything up. So I was dealing with needing to build something that is removable, which would involve a step stool and probably a few screws. I was going to do it in 2 pieces but even with the bottom half removed there wasn’t enough access to top view or reach in the tank.

Talking to a reef buddy close by who is willing to sell me his 10x54w power module. As much as I love MH, that’s the route I’m going to go. Aesthetically it should be nice, and the coverage will be good at 21” wide

It’s been a few years since I ran t5. I was majority b+ back then. I’ll be going much whiter this time to avoid that windex tint.
I’m thinking:
B+
True actinic
Tropic 6500
Giesemann 15k
B+
B+
True actinic
Tropic 6500
15k
B+

Then eventually xho or orphek on either side. Probably xho though, hard to beat the spread.
 
I totally get it, especially in a living space that gets used by the entire family. The last thing you need is a behemoth structure over your tank. Check Adam's bulb selection from BattleCorals, I think it's very similar to what you listed. Having that 6500k bulb is a must for sps.
 
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