Snake oil doctor's fish looked great yesterday

for corals, snails etc..............

for corals, snails etc..............

What do you do to QT corals? Do you dip too? Or put in QT tank without dip and wait 4 weeks? Or something else? I'm thinking this makes sense -- just trying to understand how to put it into practice for non-fish.

I'm just starting out and made some mistakes but now my cycling tank is going to be fallow for a while (fed with fish food or ammonium chloride) while my lone fish is in a QT tank. I made a bunch of mistakes including dumping the acclimation water in that was part mine, mostly from fish store, trying to put fish in too early, etc.

So I burned my fingers and want to avoid burning them again.

For corals, Macro algae, pods, snails it takes longer time but less work. No tank transfer required for these, but you have to quarantine them for 72 days to three months. The reason for this is because the tomonts might have encysted on these animals and they will hatch theronts anytime during these 72 days and the hatching is moreover unpredictable (time wise one cannot predict when they will hatch out the theronts). So when I buy corals, I quarantine for 72 days atleast before introducing them to display. For shrimps, I think it depends on their molting schedule. let's say I have a shrimp for a month and it has molted in 3 weeks and there hasn't been any new animals added to the quarantine tank, then I think it should be ok to add to display at that point. Because we are assuming that the encysted ich on the shrimp's body will be taken out of the shimp when it molts its shell. If you do it with patience you will save lot of money and you can have these fish for several years to come. After I got all the fish I wanted I won't introduce new fish (even after ttm) to display because still there is a chance that ich can get in. Lot of money is involved here so limit the risks.
 
Coral quarantine

Coral quarantine

Have atleast two quarantine tanks, one is for invertebrates and the other is for fish. don't put any fish in the invertebrate tank and vice versa. This keeps things much easier.
 
As a tile contractor, we buy and use those heaters to warm buckets of water. You can find them at any tile or flooring supply outfit. Pretty cheap as well and pack a punch
 
they do rust on some spots but it doesn't progress much on the stainless steel surface. I think it won't rust much for 5 yrs and even before that the life span on this heater might end. awesome for sterilizations and simply getting cold saltwater that was stored outside the house in 300 gallon drum to 75F (I pull 4o gallons at a single time and heat it) during winter and it takes only 15 mins from 40F to 75F of 40 gallon of water. very convenient. Bought it before a yr and works like a champion still. love it.
 
they do rust on some spots but it doesn't progress much on the stainless steel surface. I think it won't rust much for 5 yrs and even before that the life span on this heater might end. awesome for sterilizations and simply getting cold saltwater that was stored outside the house in 300 gallon drum to 75F (I pull 4o gallons at a single time and heat it) during winter and it takes only 15 mins from 40F to 75F of 40 gallon of water. very convenient. Bought it before a yr and works like a champion still. love it.

Does heating the water to 130F or 54C effectively kill all stages of ich?
 
yes

yes

yes it does but I have heated the aquarium close to 90c (these are cheap Petco aquariums). I usually heat close 70c. all stages of ich will die at this temp
 
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