So here's a potentially stupid question regard TTM and new arrivals

[Spork3245]

When receiving new arrivals (buying fish; online or LFS), since they more-than likely have ich already, does it make sense to immediately start with TTM via 5 gallon buckets (2 transfers before the final transfer into QT) *prior* to standard QT observation?

I ask as I'm in a weird situation; My 90g DT got ich after over a year of having no parasites due to following some bad advice regarding not QTing a cleaner goby. A 40g breeder I bought for a temp home for my fish is finished cycling (I have a small amount of live rock, maybe 15lbs and a bunch PVC pipe in there, I also just added 20lbs of live sand for my Diamond Goby to play in, the sand and rock will be added to my DT when this nightmare is over (I wanted more anyway )). I plan on "catching" my DT fish and beginning TTM via 5g buckets in a couple of weeks (pre-occupied the next couple of weekends as catching them is likely going to be a PITA).
I lost my wrasse due to a jump (I left the lid open over night :headwallblue a couple of days ago, I've decided to "replace" him with a Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse and a Carpenter Flasher Wrasse... Now here's the dilemma - I have a very good deal available, one that will likely not be available again, where I can get both wrasses for an incredibly cheap price. The wrasses have already been treated with prazipro and are eating well, my only concern is ich... So, should I purchase them, do TTM then place them in the 40g for a temp home? Alternatively, I do have a 10 gallon tank I could use to house them and observe (it's currently empty and dry, I also need to buy the equipment for it), I could do TTM after the other fish have completed their TTM before they join the 40g breeder.

I'm just honestly not sure what makes the most sense :headwalls:

 

[Sk8r]

Personally, I'd set up the 10 as a barebottom, filtered tank and plan on water changes and frequent tests. You need a lid, you need filtration, and a heater. No light. But test strips. Use them at least once a day. And feed sparingly and plan to change the filter very often. An uncycled qt is easy to keep: You can do a TOTAL water change if you have to. Don't worry unless you see an outbreak of something. Then diagnose it. But honestly, keeping healthy fish in plain water with adequate circulation and waste removal should be pretty straightforward, no fanciness needed UNLESS they turn out to be sick.

 

[scott3569]

I am in the TT process right now with two clown fish, I Believe the way I read on how to DO TT, is that you transfer for 12 days on the 12th day they go into Qt not on the 9th or last tt that you are talking about..My two clown have one more TT then after that they are in QT for 3 weeks..I don't plan on medicating unless I have to..

 

[Spork3245]

Personally, I'd set up the 10 as a barebottom, filtered tank and plan on water changes and frequent tests. You need a lid, you need filtration, and a heater. No light. But test strips. Use them at least once a day. And feed sparingly and plan to change the filter very often. An uncycled qt is easy to keep: You can do a TOTAL water change if you have to. Don't worry unless you see an outbreak of something. Then diagnose it. But honestly, keeping healthy fish in plain water with adequate circulation and waste removal should be pretty straightforward, no fanciness needed UNLESS they turn out to be sick.

I have a sponge sitting in that (cycled) 40g breeder I mentioned, I could move it over to the 10 gallon and put a new sponge in the 40 gallon to get a quick/instant cycle, correct? Or is that a bad idea?

Should I keep the two wrasses in that 10 gallon for 12 weeks (the two weeks before taking out my DT fish + 10 week fallow period) or should I move them to the 40 breeder after standard QT time? Would I need a power head in the 10 gallon for circulation or would a aquaclear 20 provide enough circulation?

Thank you!

 

[Spork3245]

I am in the TT process right now with two clown fish, I Believe the way I read on how to DO TT, is that you transfer for 12 days on the 12th day they go into Qt not on the 9th or last tt that you are talking about..My two clown have one more TT then after that they are in QT for 3 weeks..I don't plan on medicating unless I have to..

Sorry, I meant 3 transfers, as I understand it as:

Put them into first transfer container, check ammonia 2x/day and feed lightly (continue this every day)

On 3rd day do 1st transfer, clean containers with white vinegar and fresh water, allow to air dry

On 6th day do 2nd transfer, clean containers same as before

On 9th day do 3rd transfer, clean containers same as before

On 12th day do transfer in QT, clean containers same as before

 

[Sk8r]

I don't like sponges or sand OR rock in a qt because they can harbor ich. In a bare uncycled tank, if the water's in any tiny degree bad, do a partial or full water change with no temperature or salinity difference and it's, yes, clean and it takes care of waste. I would advise a powerhead if possible, or a shielded airstone (behind a barrier.) If you wish to use TT, it's good: just have 2 small tanks.

 

[Spork3245]

I don't like sponges or sand OR rock in a qt because they can harbor ich. In a bare uncycled tank, if the water's in any tiny degree bad, do a partial or full water change with no temperature or salinity difference and it's, yes, clean and it takes care of waste. I would advise a powerhead if possible, or a shielded airstone (behind a barrier.) If you wish to use TT, it's good: just have 2 small tanks.

I'm doing the TTM via four 5 gallon buckets actually, will be using airstones, PVC elbows and 4 jager heaters.

The sponge is actually in the 40 breeder QT I mentioned (well, it's not really QT, it's just temporary housing for my DT fish), there's no ich or parasites in there (it just finished cycling and has no livestock), the sponge would just be to transfer bacteria, it wouldn't stay in for more than a week. Is that still a bad idea?

EDIT: Just to confirm, you're saying *not* to start with TTM and just put both wrasses into the 10g QT? I guess my concern is that ich can go a long time without showing. The Cleaner Goby in question who brought ich into my DT didn't show signs of it for approximately 3 months then *boom*. It hasn't showed up again for about 10 weeks now (enough time to fully cycle that 40g breeder), I've been watching my fish closely during this time to make sure a new outbreak didn't occur (in which case I'd have to go "uncycled" for the 40 breeder which would be a lot more work for me )

 

[snorvich]

I always tank transfer new fish and always treat with prazipro. Then observe after for a minimum of 3 weeks, preferably 4 weeks.

 

[Spork3245]

I always tank transfer new fish and always treat with prazipro. Then observe after for a minimum of 3 weeks, preferably 4 weeks.

So start with tank transfer immediately upon arrival, then move to QT? The fish have already been treated with prazipro afaik, would it hurt them to treat a second time (I don't mind doing it, just want to make sure it's okay to )?