So you got a new fish tank Newbie
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Thanks to all of you helping out here. To add just a little-a weir, by definition, is just any type of dam in which water flows over the top into a lower area. As has been said it may be a hang on the tank box that allows water to enter and then be siphoned to the sump or it may be a dam inside the tank that lets water flow over the top and directs it toward an outlet hole drilled into the tank. Often weirs are notched to increase the overall surface length. The length of the overflow weir is important as it must be long enough to allow unrestricted flow or it may become submerged and create a flood situation. RC has an Overflow Calculator that gives both weir length and drainhole size for various flow rates.
The polishing filters are usually pleated paper filters or spiral wound cord. With a size of 0.5 microns or less they almost disinfect the water as only the smallest bacteria are larger than that. Viruses do pass however.
I have a AquaTec canister but it is no longer made. I used 0.5 micron filter from U.S Filter that fit the system but, alas, it appears they don't have those anymore. You might try RV Filters for 1 micron filters if your canister holds 10" filters or use a 10" RO prefilter from water systems providers. The Magnums still ofter micron filters I believe.
I think Thewuf did a good job of answering the other questions on eggcrate and closed loop. Amazing, as he was a newbie here about a year ago.
:thumbsup:
The polishing filters are usually pleated paper filters or spiral wound cord. With a size of 0.5 microns or less they almost disinfect the water as only the smallest bacteria are larger than that. Viruses do pass however.
I have a AquaTec canister but it is no longer made. I used 0.5 micron filter from U.S Filter that fit the system but, alas, it appears they don't have those anymore. You might try RV Filters for 1 micron filters if your canister holds 10" filters or use a 10" RO prefilter from water systems providers. The Magnums still ofter micron filters I believe.
I think Thewuf did a good job of answering the other questions on eggcrate and closed loop. Amazing, as he was a newbie here about a year ago.
:thumbsup:
And here I was thinking the only fish they knew about in the Carolina's were Brook Trout and Bass. 
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH YOU GUYS!!!
I thought Polishing Filters were flat pieces of filter that you could place under your water return to the sump to collect debris because I had read about some people using a filter sock, but it sounds like they are meant for our RO/DI units. Right?
O.K. so now for that Closed System:
To provide more circulation and water turnover inside the tank. It draws water directly from the display and returns it directly back to the display. The benefit is you can pump ridiculous amounts of gallons per hour (thus greatly increasing the water turnover rate) without overtaxing your sump and skimmer. Pushing water too fast through the skimmer is not a great thing as it has no time to clean up, and refugiums are not fond of high flow either, so with a closed loop you get good turnover in the display and good water processing through the sump. Hope this helps....
It draws water directly from the display and returns it directly to the display - so it must not pass through the sump and/or skimmer and it must need some kind of pump?
My pump turns over approx 1000GPH (even with head loss). I have 2 overflow/returns in my tank and the return dual spouts ( whatever those little octopus legs are called) seem so strong that they really disturb my DSB no matter which way I seem to point them. So I'm wondering why that isn't enough? And why do people add more jet flow or a closed loop to increase circulation?
More HELP please!
I thought Polishing Filters were flat pieces of filter that you could place under your water return to the sump to collect debris because I had read about some people using a filter sock, but it sounds like they are meant for our RO/DI units. Right?
O.K. so now for that Closed System:
To provide more circulation and water turnover inside the tank. It draws water directly from the display and returns it directly back to the display. The benefit is you can pump ridiculous amounts of gallons per hour (thus greatly increasing the water turnover rate) without overtaxing your sump and skimmer. Pushing water too fast through the skimmer is not a great thing as it has no time to clean up, and refugiums are not fond of high flow either, so with a closed loop you get good turnover in the display and good water processing through the sump. Hope this helps....
It draws water directly from the display and returns it directly to the display - so it must not pass through the sump and/or skimmer and it must need some kind of pump?
My pump turns over approx 1000GPH (even with head loss). I have 2 overflow/returns in my tank and the return dual spouts ( whatever those little octopus legs are called) seem so strong that they really disturb my DSB no matter which way I seem to point them. So I'm wondering why that isn't enough? And why do people add more jet flow or a closed loop to increase circulation?
More HELP please!
thewuf
Premium Member
funloven - I'm gonna take a stab at this but I'm speaking "in general" - there's a great article in this month's reefkeeping magazine that you should read Renaming Our Coals by Jury (you can find it from the home page of reefcentral) - that said....
It really depends on what you wish to keep. Most of the "nuts" (and I use the term lovingly) on here are big into SPS corals. SPS corals react better in high flow (generally) conditions simulating the ebb and flow of the tide waters on a shallow reef. Thus a constant and varied water flow works best for keeping stuff (good and bad) in the water column for these corals to use and dispose.
So yes, a separate pump is required. I see you have a 125 Gallon, I have a 150, so were talking about close to same conditions. I run a Mag 12 for my return pump (similar gph to you), but I run a Sequence Dart on my closed loop (with an OcensMotions 4-way for randomness). The Dart does 3600gph. I assume you're talking about loc-line returns (octopus things) and thus you may be what I call "fire hosing" the issue. That's where your return is say 1" pipe and then you reduce it down to 1/2" loc-line which increases the pressure. If so, you can do other things to remedy that. And if you're tank is new, the sand bed will settle down in a few months.
Keep asking....
It really depends on what you wish to keep. Most of the "nuts" (and I use the term lovingly) on here are big into SPS corals. SPS corals react better in high flow (generally) conditions simulating the ebb and flow of the tide waters on a shallow reef. Thus a constant and varied water flow works best for keeping stuff (good and bad) in the water column for these corals to use and dispose.
So yes, a separate pump is required. I see you have a 125 Gallon, I have a 150, so were talking about close to same conditions. I run a Mag 12 for my return pump (similar gph to you), but I run a Sequence Dart on my closed loop (with an OcensMotions 4-way for randomness). The Dart does 3600gph. I assume you're talking about loc-line returns (octopus things) and thus you may be what I call "fire hosing" the issue. That's where your return is say 1" pipe and then you reduce it down to 1/2" loc-line which increases the pressure. If so, you can do other things to remedy that. And if you're tank is new, the sand bed will settle down in a few months.
Keep asking....
Thanks Wuf. I did read that article BTW but I was more focused on the info about the correct nomanculture of the SPS, LSP, Large Mouth, Small Mouth , etc. So the bit about current sort of flowed right over my head. But I do have a clearer picture of what your talking about now.
Because you personnaly designed your own tank our circumstances are just a bit different. I checkout out your web page to get a better look at the Sequence Dart w/ OceanMotion 4-way. That sounded like it might fit the bill for me. I'm not sure how I would incorporate it into my tank - where does the Sequence Dart sit?
Awesome pics, by the way! I think you and I have some similar tastes. Very nicely done! I haven't learned yet how to take those pictures yet let alone post them on RC. And I know everyone is always screeming for a picture when your trying to explain things.
BTW do you - or anyone out there - have any input on useing warm water for running through the RO/DI. I've heard warm water increased the effectiveness and decreases the water waste. I have an idea (and it doesn't include a bucket).
Because you personnaly designed your own tank our circumstances are just a bit different. I checkout out your web page to get a better look at the Sequence Dart w/ OceanMotion 4-way. That sounded like it might fit the bill for me. I'm not sure how I would incorporate it into my tank - where does the Sequence Dart sit?
Awesome pics, by the way! I think you and I have some similar tastes. Very nicely done! I haven't learned yet how to take those pictures yet let alone post them on RC. And I know everyone is always screeming for a picture when your trying to explain things.
BTW do you - or anyone out there - have any input on useing warm water for running through the RO/DI. I've heard warm water increased the effectiveness and decreases the water waste. I have an idea (and it doesn't include a bucket).
reverendmaynard
New member
Warm is good for the speed of the unit, but I don't think it makes it anymore effective or reduce waste water. However, you can't get it warm by sitting it in or flowing it through metal pipes or containers, like a water heater. These add considerably to the tds level of the input water, which increases the tds of the output of the RO, which, if you have it, will decrease the life of the DI cartridge, or will go into the tank if you don't have DI.
Perhaps running the water from the source through a long plastic coil that's sitting in hot water, or in a warm room, would warm it up enough to speed up the process.
Perhaps running the water from the source through a long plastic coil that's sitting in hot water, or in a warm room, would warm it up enough to speed up the process.
Warmer is better both in throughput and reducing waste. As the temperature increases the molecules become more active and speed up the movement of pure water through the RO membrane. Commercial system often work at 140Ã"šÃ‚° F and at pressures in the 400 psi range. Don't try that with your system however as most home membranes will fail at 100Ã"šÃ‚° F and probably about 120 psi. However, using tempered, ie room temperature water, will improve performance to some degree.
reverendmaynard
New member
Thanks WK. I've read your filtration thread, but there's only so much info that can filter through the thick skull of a newbie like me before some of it gets flushed away with the waste water!
Well to tell you the truth Rev, the difference is marginal unless you tap water is very cold. I used a tempering tank in the past and really didn't lose that much output or create that much additional waste by not letting the water warm from 55, my tap, to 70, after the tempering tank. A booster pump will generally have much greater effect.
thewuf
Premium Member
funloven -
As to where the Dart will sit? Anywhere you want it, although it's not self priming so lower than the water is ideal. Mine sits under the tank in the sump area.
As for us being the same, I was primarily talking about the size of our tanks.
I've PM'd you a link to my thread where you can see and learn more about the installation of my closed loop if you're interested...
As to where the Dart will sit? Anywhere you want it, although it's not self priming so lower than the water is ideal. Mine sits under the tank in the sump area.
As for us being the same, I was primarily talking about the size of our tanks.
I've PM'd you a link to my thread where you can see and learn more about the installation of my closed loop if you're interested...
I was thinking of joining ther cold water and hot water lines together with gate valves to similate a sink faucet of sorts to that the water temp could be adjusted to warm/tepid. The temp of the cold water from the kitchen sink is 50 degress. So what I hear you saying is that it really isn't worth the trouble and that I would be just as well off by sticking a heater in my holding container. Right?
Fun,
It is a small pump that takes the tap water and boosts the pressure to the RO thereby increasing output. Home water pressure is usually in the range of 40-60 psi. Booster pumps increase it to 75-90 psi. Usually the manufacturer of your RO/DI unit will supply one as a option. If you get one from another source check to see it will not exceed the RO/DI units maximum rated pressure for you RO membrane.
It is a small pump that takes the tap water and boosts the pressure to the RO thereby increasing output. Home water pressure is usually in the range of 40-60 psi. Booster pumps increase it to 75-90 psi. Usually the manufacturer of your RO/DI unit will supply one as a option. If you get one from another source check to see it will not exceed the RO/DI units maximum rated pressure for you RO membrane.
Very helpful, WK. Thanks, again and again!
Next question - it seems to be the general feeling that you should not put a lid on your tank due to heat retention and then salt residue build-up on the glass which whould lead to decrease lighting. But I am concerned out household dust and pet hair getting in the tank (1 cat and 1 dog) plus I am trying to eleminate some noise and splashing of salt water onto my walls from the overflows. :eek1: Opinions, please.
Next question - it seems to be the general feeling that you should not put a lid on your tank due to heat retention and then salt residue build-up on the glass which whould lead to decrease lighting. But I am concerned out household dust and pet hair getting in the tank (1 cat and 1 dog) plus I am trying to eleminate some noise and splashing of salt water onto my walls from the overflows. :eek1: Opinions, please.
PatMayo
New member
I have glass tops on my tank. It is a 90 with a 30 gallon sump and I do not have heat problems. I have 2 ea. 150 watt MH lights on the tank and my water stays at 80.4 to 81.4 degrees. You can see the tank here:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=780206
Every set up is different. I like the glass tops on mine because it reduces noise and reduces evaporation significantly. I evap 3/4 gallon per day with the glass tops off it is closer to 2 gallons. More work.
Regards,
Pat
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=780206
Every set up is different. I like the glass tops on mine because it reduces noise and reduces evaporation significantly. I evap 3/4 gallon per day with the glass tops off it is closer to 2 gallons. More work.
Regards,
Pat
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