So you got a new fish tank Newbie
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
- Start date
- Status
Hi Brgr
[welcome]
I've been told to stick this thread many times but I'm too polite to mention where.
[welcome]
I've been told to stick this thread many times but I'm too polite to mention where.
I hate asking a naive question, but now that my tank has been up and running for 3 full months, do I need to add live sand. I have a shallow 2 inch Aragamax sand bed and figured it will develop life forms on its own and eventually become LS - am I worng? Should I add some LS now?
Hi Besl,
Sand will activate over time but for true diversity it is always best to seed a bed with at least some LS. The bacteria and protozoa will develop from the contact with the LR but things like some of the worms, ministars, etc. will not be present. Seeding with true LS will supply these beneficial critters. I'd also suggest deepening that bed another inch or two.
Sand will activate over time but for true diversity it is always best to seed a bed with at least some LS. The bacteria and protozoa will develop from the contact with the LR but things like some of the worms, ministars, etc. will not be present. Seeding with true LS will supply these beneficial critters. I'd also suggest deepening that bed another inch or two.
Waterkeeper - thanks for your quick response!
Will the LS purchased at a retailer (Aragalive) be worth while or do I need to get true LS from a lfs or a fellow reefer?
Also, is this a must do (add LS) or will I be ok without adding this (just leave the Aragamax without adding any LS)?
Will the LS purchased at a retailer (Aragalive) be worth while or do I need to get true LS from a lfs or a fellow reefer?
Also, is this a must do (add LS) or will I be ok without adding this (just leave the Aragamax without adding any LS)?
The Aragalive is just sand seeded with bacteria and, IMO, really not worth it. You need true LS, from another tank, collected at sea or aquacultured to get the benefits of the sand shifting organisms. As I said, your bed will seed with bacteria from the LR but it will tend to be a stagnant bed that deteriorates as detritus accumulates.
jmait769
-CSHFLW
Sump
Sump
Tom
I have been reading and reading and rethinking about the use of a sump. I initially thought I could not put one in the space I have. But after constructing the stand, I believe I do have the room for a custom made one (DIY). It will probably be in the 15 ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Å“ 20 gallon range. My question is about getting the water safely out, down to the sump and returning it. I know this is a sore subject:eek2: after your experience but what is the safest way. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t think this tank can be drilled (safety glass) so over the top is the only way. I looked at the CPR Overflow box and after I looked at it for awhile (and scratching my head) wondered what are the safety features? Any thoughts would be appreciated!!
TDY is back on! Will have to put a hold on getting the live rock till mid to late April. But the RO unit showed up yesterday!!:smokin:
J
Sump
Tom
I have been reading and reading and rethinking about the use of a sump. I initially thought I could not put one in the space I have. But after constructing the stand, I believe I do have the room for a custom made one (DIY). It will probably be in the 15 ââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Å“ 20 gallon range. My question is about getting the water safely out, down to the sump and returning it. I know this is a sore subject:eek2: after your experience but what is the safest way. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t think this tank can be drilled (safety glass) so over the top is the only way. I looked at the CPR Overflow box and after I looked at it for awhile (and scratching my head) wondered what are the safety features? Any thoughts would be appreciated!!
TDY is back on! Will have to put a hold on getting the live rock till mid to late April. But the RO unit showed up yesterday!!:smokin:
J
For a non-drilled tank you will need a HOB type overflow box like those from CPR. The main problem with these is they drain into the sump by a siphon. If you lose the siphon then the return pump can sent most of the sumps contents to the main tank and create an overflow. Products like the CPR have a connection for a small vacuum pump that will reestablish the siphon if it is lost. You best defense however is to use more than on box on your tank. If one fails the other still functions. You do want to adjust the overflow weir high enough that if the return pump fails the tank level will only fall by an amount the sump can handle. If the weir is not adjustable then drilling a small hole in the siphon can act as a siphon break instead.
Waterkeeper, great thread!!! I have been reading it as I have time. I was really waiting for you to get to my favorite subject - ALGAE!!! Curses to the stuff. Great idea about the hang on filter to help clear the outbreak. I am headed to the LFS tomorrow!!! Your post is very timely for me. My tank is ~ 3 weeks old and just about 4 days ago the algae started coming in spades. I had used PurpleUp to go after coraline growth. I originally thought this to be the problem and then realized it was part of the landscape. I have been scouring RC looking for what you have posted. Thanks a million!!!
I wish I had a simple solution to a new tank's algae outbreak but I don't. About the only thing that helps is water changes to help remove the initial amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus that fuel the bloom. The upside is that, with time, the algae does depart.
The water was starting to clear this morning. I did a 5% water change and added an AquaClear 50 Powerhead with the prefilter attachment. I have noticed an almost immediate change in water quality. I know I am not out of the woods yet. I also know that I have a long way to go. Thanks to your advice I am at least on the correct road headed in the correct direction. The 50 with the prefilter attachment seems to be removing some free floating particles. Also, rinsing out the filament at the top of the sump probably did not hurt either. With the 50 in the tank I am at ~3,100 gph. Progress, slow but sure!!!
Changing a little water in this hobby can pay off in spades.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
jmait769
-CSHFLW
Tom, no I havenââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t given up on this yet!!:rollface:
I have posted some pictures in my gallery and will try to post one here:
Anyways, got the TDY completed, finished the front section of the tank and started the live rock and sand. I had this set-up for about a week with RO/DI water (no salt), 40 lbs of sand and 30lbs of dead rock, started up all the equipment and made sure nothing leaked. Of course I had one leak on the Remora Aqua C Skimmer so that was some good advise you gave about not adding the salt so quick!! They replaced it in a hurry so no problem.
After the TDY I got 25lbs of ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œliveââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ sand (to seed the sand bed) and 15lbs of Fiji rock from the local LFS. I put in a piece of cocktail shrimp for about 12 hours and then did a 20% water change. So far after the initial sand storm died down the ammonia levels have never gotten above .50 (Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m using the liquid drop/vial testers). Here are the other parameters:
Specific Gravity 1.022
PH 8.3
Temperature 79-80
Ammonia .50
Nitrite 3.0
Nitrate 20
Alk 300
The rock from the LFS was ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œcuredââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ (in a tub of water off to the side) and I guess that is why the ammonia never got to high. Should I do a large water change or a small one keeping the ammonia and nitrites low? The pictures are from the third day after cycle started.
My plan was to order 50lbs of rock and 20lbs of sand package from TBS and hopefully do a smaller cycle with their rock. Well, as with all good plans this one will have to wait as I have to go TDY again (unexpected!). This GWOT is slowing this process down!!
Well, look at the pictures when you get a chance and let me know what you think. All criticism and advice welcomed!!
J
I have posted some pictures in my gallery and will try to post one here:
Anyways, got the TDY completed, finished the front section of the tank and started the live rock and sand. I had this set-up for about a week with RO/DI water (no salt), 40 lbs of sand and 30lbs of dead rock, started up all the equipment and made sure nothing leaked. Of course I had one leak on the Remora Aqua C Skimmer so that was some good advise you gave about not adding the salt so quick!! They replaced it in a hurry so no problem.
After the TDY I got 25lbs of ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œliveââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ sand (to seed the sand bed) and 15lbs of Fiji rock from the local LFS. I put in a piece of cocktail shrimp for about 12 hours and then did a 20% water change. So far after the initial sand storm died down the ammonia levels have never gotten above .50 (Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m using the liquid drop/vial testers). Here are the other parameters:
Specific Gravity 1.022
PH 8.3
Temperature 79-80
Ammonia .50
Nitrite 3.0
Nitrate 20
Alk 300
The rock from the LFS was ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œcuredââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ (in a tub of water off to the side) and I guess that is why the ammonia never got to high. Should I do a large water change or a small one keeping the ammonia and nitrites low? The pictures are from the third day after cycle started.
My plan was to order 50lbs of rock and 20lbs of sand package from TBS and hopefully do a smaller cycle with their rock. Well, as with all good plans this one will have to wait as I have to go TDY again (unexpected!). This GWOT is slowing this process down!!
Well, look at the pictures when you get a chance and let me know what you think. All criticism and advice welcomed!!
J
I don't have time tonight as "Big Time Wrestling" is coming on but I would raise that salinity to 1.025 or so.
jmait769
-CSHFLW
OK Tom! Hope the ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œBig Timeââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ was all that you expected!!
This morning the parameters were better after I did a 10 gallon water change yesterday afternoon.
Specific Gravity was 1.024 (Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll continue to raise this)
PH 8.3
Temperature 79.3
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 2.0
Alk 300
I'm wondering since I started out with a "dead" sand bed, and then seeded it with about 1 inch of live sand, how long will that take to establish as the sand is close to 4 inches thick. Can I halt the cycle prematurely with to many water changes?
Thanks as always!
J
This morning the parameters were better after I did a 10 gallon water change yesterday afternoon.
Specific Gravity was 1.024 (Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll continue to raise this)
PH 8.3
Temperature 79.3
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 2.0
Alk 300
I'm wondering since I started out with a "dead" sand bed, and then seeded it with about 1 inch of live sand, how long will that take to establish as the sand is close to 4 inches thick. Can I halt the cycle prematurely with to many water changes?
Thanks as always!
J
:lol:
Hi J
I haven't watched wrestling since Haystacks (William) Calhoun retired.
It seems everything is going according to Hoyle and, yes, those low ammonia levels are typical when using fully cured LR. I would suggest curing any additional LR in separate curing vats rather than the main tank. That will avoid damaging the critters on that rock form the LFS. For 50 lbs you only need a couple of plastic tubs to do the cure. When ammonia and nitrite fall off you then can add the new LR to the tank.
If you add more sand it can go directly into the display. LS only give a small cycle unless it is subject to high temps (above 90Ã"šÃ‚° F) during shipping. With about 25% LS you should get a functional bed in 3-5 months. That may seem long but even with all LS it usually takes a month or two for the bed to develop.
Change away on the water. Water changes in no way slow the cycle and if you do them routinely help lessen the algae blooms that occur in all new tanks.
Hi J
I haven't watched wrestling since Haystacks (William) Calhoun retired.
It seems everything is going according to Hoyle and, yes, those low ammonia levels are typical when using fully cured LR. I would suggest curing any additional LR in separate curing vats rather than the main tank. That will avoid damaging the critters on that rock form the LFS. For 50 lbs you only need a couple of plastic tubs to do the cure. When ammonia and nitrite fall off you then can add the new LR to the tank.
If you add more sand it can go directly into the display. LS only give a small cycle unless it is subject to high temps (above 90Ã"šÃ‚° F) during shipping. With about 25% LS you should get a functional bed in 3-5 months. That may seem long but even with all LS it usually takes a month or two for the bed to develop.
Change away on the water. Water changes in no way slow the cycle and if you do them routinely help lessen the algae blooms that occur in all new tanks.
- Status
Similar threads
