Solaris Led lighting systems

[Amphibious]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8622422#post8622422 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mako56
Woow !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats awesome can I ask what and how many mh's you had? And my tank is 24" wide will I need two fixtures to keep my sps's happy?

Yes, of course. One month before IMAC last April I bought Aquactinic's 72" 3 x 175W 10K + 4 x 39W Actinic fixture ($1200 plus $100 shipping). This was my first venture into MH. Prior to moving to FL I had only grown/fragged Montis and low light SPS. In FL I planed on doing more Acros in an Aquaculture setting. I had the MH on the tank for a month and a half before IMAC. I had to buy a chiller and a room AC because of the heat generation of the MH. I kept the door to the fish room closed so as not to have to run the whole house AC. I knew of these issues with MH but still, I was not happy. Neither was my wife, bless her tolerant heart.

Anyway, Thursday, I walked into IMAC and saw the Solaris, met and talked with Pat about the LEDs. Friday morning I asked Pat how many he had sold of the Solaris units. He responded with a smile, none. I said, OK, I'll place the first order and kick this thing off.

If you have SPSs in that wide of a tank, I believe you and the SPSs would be happier with two fixtures.

 

[badpacket]

Glad you and Pat are taking the **** on DIY'ers, maybe they'll return the compliment...
The work that Pat has done is not rocket science, its simple applied science and physics I would expect. Whats been really holding back LED in the hobby has been the lack of true high power LED's. Thats been solved, and there are a multitude of high power LED controllers available from companies such as Maxim that do all the dirty work.
What holding back DIY'ers is the fact that there are some moderately expensive up-front costs to playing around with numerous $5-7 LED's, and some decent electronics experience would be almost mandatory. That and some cash too.

However, once someone does play around a bit with the LED's, figures out power distribution, and solves some probable heat and cooling issues, it shouldn't be too hard for the home DIY'ers on RC to get some sort of OSS (Open Source Solution) going.

Did it with skimmer didn't they? Pretty soon we'll see someone running the reef-led.com equivelent to the mj-mods.com off here.

You seem pretty tight with Pat I must say...

For all you DIY'rs that think you will simply, well, do it yourself, good luck. Several have already tried and have given up in frustration. There is more to hooking up these LEDS than meets the eye. Pat and I have talked about the speed bumps he's had to overcome and we both just laugh at the DIY people. I say, "good luck" and more power to you if you figure it out. Several manufacturers are working on it, too. Eventually, someone will get it worked out but, right now PFO has the unit. Pat has done the work, two years in the making. [/B]

 

[Amphibious]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8622969#post8622969 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by badpacket
Glad you and Pat are taking the **** on DIY'ers, maybe they'll return the compliment...
The work that Pat has done is not rocket science, its simple applied science and physics I would expect. Whats been really holding back LED in the hobby has been the lack of true high power LED's. Thats been solved, and there are a multitude of high power LED controllers available from companies such as Maxim that do all the dirty work.
What holding back DIY'ers is the fact that there are some moderately expensive up-front costs to playing around with numerous $5-7 LED's, and some decent electronics experience would be almost mandatory. That and some cash too.

However, once someone does play around a bit with the LED's, figures out power distribution, and solves some probable heat and cooling issues, it shouldn't be too hard for the home DIY'ers on RC to get some sort of OSS (Open Source Solution) going.

Did it with skimmer didn't they? Pretty soon we'll see someone running the reef-led.com equivelent to the mj-mods.com off here.

You seem pretty tight with Pat I must say...

Interesting post badpacket. Pat and I are not taking the ****on DIY'ers, what ever that means. I've never been good at decyphering coded words. I doubt that Pat has anything against DIY'ers. After all he sells MH parts, when the time comes he'll probably sell the LED parts for DIY'ers. I certainly have nothing against DIY'ers since I am one. What I get a kick out of on the LED lights going DIY is, they are barely out and some DIY'ers think this is going to be a piece of cake, like skimmers. That was a poor comparison, IMHO.

As far as Pat and I being tight??? I would hardly make that statement in a public forum. Pat and I are aquaintances and I am one of his retailers. I like Pat because he's committed to seeing the issues, that are bound to come up with any new complex invention, are all taken care of at his expense. He's a good business man, very personable and honest to a fault! If that seems to you my being in tight with him, so be it. You are intitled to your opinion.

 

[owsi]

Mine should ship tomorrow I hope. From watching Rob's 72" at 30 some inches depth, my 60" should rip at 20". This should be my last upgrade, I think I put this one together right. I was a DIY'er but am now too lazy and have also found over the years that it costs more to diy and fine tune a lot of things. I built my own tanks, skimmers, light units, stands and wet/drys with spinner arms. This 2x150DE HQI is my mod of parts to get what I wanted since no one made one for my 54 corner. This Solaris sold me the first time I saw it, never heard of Solaris, Rob posted he had one. It had everything I wanted, natural light control, minimize heat output and minimize power usage. I am sure as Amphibious says PFO will stand behind this product in a fair manner.

 

[namdrib2]

Can anyone tell me if the 48" version can put out the same quality light as two 250w MH?

 

[jnb]

I had a 2 times 250 watt MH fixture running 20k XM -

the MH has a stronger point of light and because of this offers more shimmer and more intensity directly beneath it -

the Solaris light's intensity is spread out across the tank more and so the shadows are less acute than MH

but may not offer quite the light spread front to back depending on what reflectors for MH you are comparing to (some people are happy about this as it diminishes as much algae growing on the front glass - but overall I would guess that the majority of people wish it has more spread front to back - except that it is perfect for 18 inch tanks

I have the 20k version and like blue - it seems to have a nice blue, maybe nicer than 20k MH xm

I believe my purple tip acro is starting to color up a bit more under these lights - at first it seem to lose some purple but now I see that the purple is coming back and seems to reach down further on each stalk - this is nice

When you ask about quality of light, I am not sure exactly what aspect of the various aspects of quality you are asking about

I compare it to diving - the top of the reef in 20 feet of water is about 5 feet from the surface where all the intense light is - that is nice - go down 10 more feet and the image is bluer, less intense, and just as nice

My acros are growing under it - I expect the acros that are not directly under a MH point of light to grow as fast or faster


just my experience/opinion thus far regarding quality of light not addressing heat, energy use, longivity, noise

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8634147#post8634147 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by namdrib2
Can anyone tell me if the 48" version can put out the same quality light as two 250w MH?

 

[jnb]

I sent you a PM the other day - you did not get it?




care of at his expense. He's a good business man, very personable and honest to a fault! If that seems to you my being in tight with him, so be it. You are intitled to your opinion. [/B][/QUOTE]

 

[Amphibious]

These are the fixtures the 250W Solaris was designed to replace. So, I guess the answer to your question is yes. Although measuring "quality" could be very tricky and subject to opinion.

My initial reaction was disapointment. I was replacing an Aquactinics 3 x 175W 10K with 4 x 39W Actinics. I expected a "brighter" look about it. It didn't take me more than a day or two to change my mind. And in short order my corals, SPSs, LPSs and some softies began to show their approval of the new lights. I and others have docummented the growth we're getting from our corals on this thread. Go back a few pages and take a look. My 3 Crocea clams appear to approve of the change, too.

I'm more than satisfied with my Solaris lights. I've reported in a post above how this light will pay for itself in just three years. Try that with a MH, can't be done!!!

Dick

 

[Amphibious]

Nick,

I did get it. Just haven't taken the time to do the task you asked. I'll get it done today. Sorry.

 

[SWSaltwater]

Gotta say I am still loving my light. LPS and Clams still running fine at 30" deep. I did move up my green brain but only as my damaged light started to fade... I moved 2 corals that had browned out in my T-5 (8x54watt) tanks. They turned purple again!!!!! I need to rememebr my camera some day to take more pics.

 

[neoreef]

I been following this thread and am curious if anyone has had these lights long enough to form an opinion regarding coral coloration. I would think that with the 20K light the blues and purples would be okay but what about the response for the warmer colored corals. The oranges, pinks and reds?

 

[SWSaltwater]

coloration is on the same level as MH IMO. All my colors look great. I placed several corals in that tank to get color back in them.

Rob

 

[Gomer]

For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

 

[Ti]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8647124#post8647124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gomer
For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

might have to email PFO

 

[Reefmaniac1]

Definintely worth investigating further. I don't have a tank currently (due to power outage)...so I've got some time to save up.

 

[SWSaltwater]

20 k is 13blue 10white 2green per each LED bank. Mine is 72" and has 6 banks.

 

[Amphibious]

Gomer,

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

I think the unit would have to be disassembled to get a pic of the heat sinks. I don't know of anyone willing to do that. Disassembly could be considered an act of voiding the warrantee if something went wrong. These units are too expensive to swallow because of negligence. I, personally, would not risk it.

 

[jnb]

As I was on the phone with PFO, we got into mine to check out a connection, they are easy to get in to - but to see a heat sink you have to remove one or more led banks depending on how much of a heat sink you want to see - why do you need to see a heatsink - are your building an led fixture?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8647124#post8647124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gomer
For those with 20k and 13k version.

Per 25 LED set:

How many white LEDs?
How many blue LEDs?
How many green LEDs?

Anyone have a picture of the heatsinks?

 

[Gomer]

Ya, I have played many times with LED fixtures. I actually have one running on a FW tank but I am new to SW.


For anyone with a solaris or with first hand experience

The Solaris is made up of 25LED sections. Suppose you were using the solaris on the JBJ Nanocube12. Would a single 25LED section be too little, jsut right, or way over kill.

1) if a zoo/shroom tank.
2) if a SPS tank
3) if a Clam

Appreciate any comments

(part of my measure twice, cut once plan )

 

[SWSaltwater]

I suspect with the heat issues I see with nano cubes, aqua pods, etc that LED's are the only way to go. Might increase cost but well worth it. I don't think it would be overkill. Would be an awesome nano with 25 luxeons.