Some Sump Questions

Sprockett

New member
I've been researching adding a sump to my setup, and possibly a fuge with a skimmer as well...

One thing that has really concerned me is overflowing the tank or the sump, I've read designs where having two tubes on the overflow would prevent possible clogging and prevent flooding.

But after thinking about it for a long time I'm not really comfortable with that solution, so I wanted to toss out an idea and see if anyone else has even attempted this:

To make things easy I'm going to assume that if you pull 2" off the top of the tank would be 2 gallons of water exactly, so you set your overflow to a depth of no more than 2".

Let's also say that our sump has 4 parts to it:

An Overflow chamber possibly with a filter.
A center Fuge part
A Micro Bubble trap
A Return Area

The problem here is that if your return area is larger than our estimated 2 gallons we run the risk of flood if there is a problem on the other end. If as the system is running and overflow is going into the return chamber and then a blockage happens, the return pump is going to empty out the return chamber until we flood.

If however you used baffles before and after the main part of the center tank (or fuge) and kept them level with each other, then reduced the size of your return chamber to no more than say 1 gallon (or less in our example). Then the only time water would flow into your return chamber was when it was flowing in from the overflow and pushing water over into the return area, if the water stopped for any reason then the most that could be pumped in would be 1 gallon before it stopped.

Now I'm not sure about the rest of you but if something can go wrong around here it will, Mr Murphy is practically a member of our family at this point so I've learned over time to take every precaution :)

There could be some problems with a setup like this, for instance you could run the return pump dry and it would have to be able to keep up with the overflow. If you left the overall volume of the whole setup (above the baffles for instance or have an overflow off the return area) enough that it could take our full 2 gallons and not flood the sump then you have insurance against flooding if the return fails as well..

At some point today I'll see if I can draw something up showing what I'm talking about, it's kind of hard to describe but I'm sure it will work. I'm going to find a plastic shop in the local area and see about putting one together to run some tests one...

This could be fun :)
 
Paul,

This is the standard idea behind many if not most sump systems.

Take mine for example...

I have a makeshift 3 part sump (refugium, return area, and skimmer area).

Water flows into two parts (skimmer area and refugium) then both over flow into the return area. (so both are full when flowing in)

The return area itself houses about ~5-10 galls of water...

On my return area I have a min line and a max line. As long as the water is in that area I will not overflow my main tank, and can absorb all the flow over from my main tank.

This is the first thing I did when setting up my system as a fail safe.

Dave
 
sump overflow

sump overflow

The only way to have a fail-safe display/sump setup is if your display tank has a built in overflow, ie. is a reef tank. If you use siphon tubes and the power goes out you will lose your siphon in the display. When the power comes back on your pump will empty the sump into the display tank and it will overflow. I keep the water level in my sump about 5 inches below the top so that when I shut off my return pump it can handle the 1" of water above the level of my overflow in the display tank as well as the backflow from all my other plumbing.
 
I also have a 3 chamber about 50g size and what I do is leave it 1/2 empty and have tested by turning return pump off and my display will fill my sump about 3/4 of the way b4 the overflow box is above the water line in display
 
I wouldn't say that the only way to have a fail-safe display/sump setup is to have it pre-drilled.
My sump is a 37g with the baffles only going 2/3 the way up the tank. I have a hob overflow unit, so if the power goes out, the sump can handle the additional water from the 55g display tank. Plug your return pump into an electrical strip that automatically turns off and stays off when the power goes off, and you don't have to worry about overflowing the display tank.

When designing your sump, make sure you have 3 compartments. The return should be in the middle, with the refugium on one side and your filter media and bio-balls on the other. You want your filter area and return compartments to turn over around 15X per hour. The refugium should only turn over 3X per hour. I just threw a maxi-jet 400 in the return (middle) compartment and it pumps a perfect amount of water through the refugium.
 
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