Sonny's Rimless Shallow Reef.

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Thanks Sonny for your response. I'll keep on doing what I've been. Looking forward to reduce po4 to zero or close to it.
 
My nitrates is still running at around 10ppm, after 2 months of dosing mb7 and biofuel.

I have a small DSB in one of the sump compartments. It "looks" pretty clean, but I'm wondering whether that's the reason my nitrates hasn't gone down. I don't overfeed or anything of that sort.

Have you tried blowing detritus off the rocks, and if so, how often? I tried it this past weekend, and it was unbelieveable. My tank was cloudy in the matter of seconds.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15388661#post15388661 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fernandokng
My nitrates is still running at around 10ppm, after 2 months of dosing mb7 and biofuel.

I have a small DSB in one of the sump compartments. It "looks" pretty clean, but I'm wondering whether that's the reason my nitrates hasn't gone down. I don't overfeed or anything of that sort.

Have you tried blowing detritus off the rocks, and if so, how often? I tried it this past weekend, and it was unbelievable. My tank was cloudy in the matter of seconds.

Live rock trap large amounts of detritus so it is a good idea to take a turkey baster to them every couple weeks. I like to do it at night because the corals feeding tentacles are out and it gives them something to eat.

Check you sump and be sure to siphon out waste from it every couple weeks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15383794#post15383794 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
Thanks for the update! :D

Yeah, you wouldn't believe how fast crud can accumulate. All that stuff does is raise your nitrate and create problems in your main system.

Good luck with the change and let us know how it works out.

Sonny

Sonny,
In reference to siphoning out nasties from the sump compartments. Is there an easy way to do so, when the bottom of your sump is only 2-3 inches off of the floor? I am running a pretty basic system and my sump sits inside my stand. It is only 2 inches above my fish room floor. I find it hard to create siphons. Is the only way to clean the sump floor by using airline tubing and a lucky siphon? It really does take forever to cover ground in the sump that way. I was thinking the best possible way to clean would be to:

Turn off your return pump.
Put as many circulating pumps that you have laying around into your sump/sump compartments to keep everything, emphasis on everything in the water column.
Run your protein skimmer wetter than normal for a few hours before turning your return pump back on.

Anyone have any tips and tricks?

On the subject of turkey basting the rocks in the display... Its a great thing to do IMO, but its really a pain and it takes forever to get them clean and as you clean one rock, another gets the debris that you just turkey basted. It helps to do so with strong circulation and a wetter setting on the skimmer.

I also believe that a strong clean up crew (CUC) can totally replace turkey basting your rocks. I recently added 44x Astrea snails, 5x Troches snails, 20x Cerith snails, 10x baby nassarius snails, 4x emerald crabs to my existing clean up crew of 2x emeralds, a few rogue snails, roughly 10 hermits (red/blue), 2x long brown stars, 1x Sand sifting star, 3x Large Nassarius, 1x Yellow watchman goby, 4x Peppermint shrimps, 1x Cleaner shrimp and a Decorator crab. Whew that's a handful to type :) I really did not pay attention to my CUC population for a while, I guess I was more concerned with other things. I have moved twice since the start of my reef and replacing your snails is a must at some points. Trochus snails have a lifespan of 5-7 years I hear.

I have noticed since I added the recent additions to my old dwindling CUC my rocks are allot cleaner and the snails practically eat everything. I could not see through the back glass before, now I can, its crystal clear. Nothing honestly IMHO can replace a strong CUC and consistent practice of the basics. Sonny I don't want to hijack your thread, just wanted to touch base and put out some of my recent findings for your existing topics. Your thread is my only active participating one and I really admire your reefing skills, knowledge and your honesty and mentorism to the reefing community:)

-Chris
 
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Guess even if your sump is only 2-3 inch higher than the ground it's the upper water level that's imprtant and if you stop circulation and level rises or maybe allow it to rise by adding more water to it by siphon from the tank, then your water level will be high a siphon directly to a drain or maybe a shallow container so that your siphoning tube doesn't point all the way up. Even if water is way below the glass yo ucan still siphon as long as the other end of tube is lower so running it into a drain will allow you take most of the water out. if this doesn't work runa couple of pumps in there and then start a siphon while also draining from tank to the sump to keep the levels up and siphon running.
turkey baster and/or running a pump in the tank and directing it towards the rock are both good ideas esepcially when done directly before a water change. what I do is run a strong pump in the sump and connect a tube from it ot the tank to blwo on rocks... this way the detritus gets in the water column, the increased flow ( return pump and the pump used) and hitting the rocks repeatedly makes most of the detritus collect in the sump usually...
 
I'd suggest taking a pump/powerhead that you can attach tubing on both the inlet and outlet sides. Run the outlet tube into a filter sock. Hold the sock inside the sump and use the inlet tube to start sucking out the gunk. The water will return through the sock and stay in the sump.
 
Sonny,
First off your tank is growing in beautifully, and thanks for not going full zeo. Your tank proves that simplicity is genius.
I have been in the long process of a rimless build for a while now (dims 48x24x21), I purchased my t-5s largely based on your recommendation, I varied a little. Now I would like your opinion on bulb and switch order, and fixture height.
I am using an 8xPM which will be hung from the ceiling so fixture height can be varied for acclimation. My only complaint about the PM is that it only has 2 switches. 2 bulbs for sun rise/ set, and then 6 on for full day.
This is what I was thinking:
Front
Blue +
Aqua Sci 22k
full day Aquablue Special
Blue +
Fiji Purple
full day Aquablue Special
Aqua Sci 22k
Blue +

This set up would have most bulbs on for sun rise/ set and then the Aquablue Specials would kick on as full light. I am having reservations about this configuration. What photo period would you recomend? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 
Those are great ways of siphoning out the waste, thanks for the tips guys! :D

I usually will take a plastic dust pan and scoop the waste right out. Any left of waste I simply stir around and allow the system to eat it or export it via skimmer.

I sometimes place a maxijet with a hose attached to it and stir up the sump. Using the maxi jet I then drain out most of the sump and replace it with fresh salt water.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15389178#post15389178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lyfey
In reference to siphoning out nasties from the sump compartments. Is there an easy way to do so, when the bottom of your sump is only 2-3 inches off of the floor? I am running a pretty basic system and my sump sits inside my stand. It is only 2 inches above my fish room floor. I find it hard to create siphons.
I use a gravel vac from my freshwater tank. Specifically, I use this one. Hooks up to the sink and creates a nice strong siphon everytime. It occassionally clogs with any large chunks, but if you siphon often enough, those don't form.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15389697#post15389697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bill14
I use a gravel vac from my freshwater tank. Specifically, I use this one. Hooks up to the sink and creates a nice strong siphon everytime. It occassionally clogs with any large chunks, but if you siphon often enough, those don't form.

+1 on the Python. I don't see how I could ever go back. And for the sump, just pull the end piece (the 2" tube and green adapter) out of the hose and you can get anywhere with just the hose.
 
Hey sonny, I was given a bottle of Kent Marine's Coral-Vite last year for the holidays and haven't used it.

I'm thinking it might be useful to start since you started dosing strontium.

The contents:

Calcium
Iodine
Magnesium
Potassium
Strontium
Vitamin A
Ascorbic Acid
Thiamine (vitamin B-1)
Pyridoxine (vitamin B-2)
Vitamin B-12

It says 1 to 2 teaspoons per 50 gallons weekly.

1 capful is 1 teaspoon. Should it be alright to dose just 1 capful (1 teaspoon) per week? Would this be a benefit to my corals?

Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15348635#post15348635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
I do not shut down my skimmer with MB7 as it can negatively affect the system PH as seen above in the charts posted by kfick

As far as I know, the new labels on MB7 now say that it is OK to leave the skimmer on.

I've been having trouble keeping the pH above 8 during the lighting period. I wonder if it's because I'm shutting my skimmer off after dosing MB7.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15389453#post15389453 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
Those are great ways of siphoning out the waste, thanks for the tips guys! :D

I usually will take a plastic dust pan and scoop the waste right out. Any left of waste I simply stir around and allow the system to eat it or export it via skimmer.

I sometimes place a maxijet with a hose attached to it and stir up the sump. Using the maxi jet I then drain out most of the sump and replace it with fresh salt water.

You should try out some zeovit zeozyme. I recently tried some and my sand bed looks brand new it amazed me.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15389444#post15389444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by boodlefish
Sonny,
First off your tank is growing in beautifully, and thanks for not going full zeo. Your tank proves that simplicity is genius.
I have been in the long process of a rimless build for a while now (dims 48x24x21), I purchased my t-5s largely based on your recommendation, I varied a little. Now I would like your opinion on bulb and switch order, and fixture height.
I am using an 8xPM which will be hung from the ceiling so fixture height can be varied for acclimation. My only complaint about the PM is that it only has 2 switches. 2 bulbs for sun rise/ set, and then 6 on for full day.
This is what I was thinking:
Front
Blue +
Aqua Sci 22k
full day Aquablue Special
Blue +
Fiji Purple
full day Aquablue Special
Aqua Sci 22k
Blue +

This set up would have most bulbs on for sun rise/ set and then the Aquablue Specials would kick on as full light. I am having reservations about this configuration. What photo period would you recomend? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Hello :D

Wow, I didn't know the PM had only 2 switches; that stinks!

While I can recommended bulb placement it will ultimately come down to where the corals are placed and what looks best to your eyes.

Say that, I would try something like this:

Front
Blue +
Fiji Purple
full day Blue+
Aquablue Special
Aqua Sci 22k
full day Blue+
Aquablue Special
Aqua Sci 22k



I moved the Fiji Purple bulb around as it is a "special" bulb and you wont get the full effect of it unless it is towards the front of the corals.

For Photoperiod I would do:

2 bulb switch: 12hrs

6 bulb switch: 8-10hrs (subtract or add time based on coral appearance after a month. If corals are lightening up then decrease time, if corals are not growing or coloring up to your satisfaction increase time.)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15393868#post15393868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by t5Nitro
Hey sonny, I was given a bottle of Kent Marine's Coral-Vite last year for the holidays and haven't used it.

I'm thinking it might be useful to start since you started dosing strontium.

The contents:

Calcium
Iodine
Magnesium
Potassium
Strontium
Vitamin A
Ascorbic Acid
Thiamine (vitamin B-1)
Pyridoxine (vitamin B-2)
Vitamin B-12

It says 1 to 2 teaspoons per 50 gallons weekly.

1 capful is 1 teaspoon. Should it be alright to dose just 1 capful (1 teaspoon) per week? Would this be a benefit to my corals?

Thanks.

Hmmmmmmm..............:reading:

I have never used it but thee ingredients look similar to what you would be adding with a simple water change. If you are already doing consistent water changes then you really dont need the extra additives.

You could give it a shot for a couple weeks and see if it does anything. Then again, if you are currently fighting algae or other issues in your tank it would be best not to dose it at all. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15393912#post15393912 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
I've been having trouble keeping the pH above 8 during the lighting period. I wonder if it's because I'm shutting my skimmer off after dosing MB7.

Lower PH is one of the reasons why I keep my skimmer on. The bacteria can suck up oxygen and cause your PH to sink.

If you are worried about the skimmer sucking up the MB7 then simply add two extra drops to compensate. ;)
 
Sunny....where are you keeping you temp at?? I'm wondering if that's what's holding back my growth. I keep mine rock solid between 79.5 and 80.0.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15398400#post15398400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tas5tas
Sunny....where are you keeping you temp at?? I'm wondering if that's what's holding back my growth. I keep mine rock solid between 79.5 and 80.0.

I keep mine between 78-80. Increasing the temp has been know to increase coral growth but it can also increase the chance of your fish getting sick.
 
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