SPS Corals Missing Color

Thanks for clarifying, Sahin :)

I feel you're right about your observations wrt live rock. I personally feel that the misunderstood intensity of leds (in my case, they're probably running too high), coupled with minimal use of live rock, is part of MY problem at least :)
 
Now I have been doing more thinking... and reading... and thinking again. Not all of my colors are lacking, my greens are superb, especially on SPS - they are super vibrant. My monti's red is also quite good.

I also got different macro in my tank, and am getting red hair algae in my frag tank, where I don't have any tangs. I also got some xenia which is doing exceptional.

What I don't understand is that if this was a nitrate/phosphate deficiency, my xenia and hair algae would be dying. And my green corals would also be lacking in color. Thoughts?
 
I am running them on 50% for Radion Pros.

There is no reason why you cannot run the lights at 100%. But IME, corals have the hardest time adjusting to LED lights; so the increase needs to be very slow. To give you some perspective; I keep a M. digitata ~4" below a 12x3w par 38; the coral is right under the center of the bulb. It is one of my nicest pieces and grows like a fiend.
 
Now I have been doing more thinking... and reading... and thinking again. Not all of my colors are lacking, my greens are superb, especially on SPS - they are super vibrant. My monti's red is also quite good.

I also got different macro in my tank, and am getting red hair algae in my frag tank, where I don't have any tangs. I also got some xenia which is doing exceptional.

What I don't understand is that if this was a nitrate/phosphate deficiency, my xenia and hair algae would be dying. And my green corals would also be lacking in color. Thoughts?

Possible allopathy from the xenia? My thinking is that the xenia 'smell' the other corals and start pumping toxins and spreading in order to out-compete the perceived threat. You see this sort of behavior in the wild with some Sinularia; they eventually push out all other corals and dominate sections of rock. But in an enclosed system all the corals are chemically next to each other.

As far as the algae difference is concerned; it's probably because there are different grazers; flow rates and lighting than in the DT.
 
Tagging along, i have the same problem. stopped dosing Vodka/sugar/vinegar about a week ago and started to feed more often about a week ago. Just like You, i have pale colors of most of the blues under cree LEDs. Also some of my plating montis are lacking red colour, but digitata monti which is higher on the reef is nice and red, also green staghorn acro is glowing bright green. i still think this is nutrients issue and some corals just know how to facilitate light better than others. Also position on the reef might be important. My seriatopora caliendrum i salso paling from top, which i think might be LED issue, maybe i need to just loewr the percentage a bit or put the light higher (its only 11 cm/ idk 3inches? above the water level).

well we`ll share experiences:)
i`m curious
 
There is no reason why you cannot run the lights at 100%
do you run LEDS? i thought the same way until i found out the the radion leds hit over 1000 par at water level with the fixture 8" above the water line. Leds are far more superior then other lighting when it comes to par readings against the same watts. Before suggesting to others what they should or shouldn't do please do your home work.

CHECK THIS LINK OUT>>>> http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2272079&highlight=radion+par+readings
 
Have a look at this awesome Radion lit nano tank: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2287628&page=4

This is an amazing example of a Radion SPS reef.

I think by my posts showing the examples you can be absolutely confident that you can get very decent colours with LED systems.

Holy saturation Batman!!! The corals look colorful in the pictures, but his substrate is absolutely purple/blue when it should be white. Bare rock looks good when you shine enough purple light on it

tank-72.jpg
 
AcroporAddict: I think that is a result of LED lighting and a white balance issue in general.

Look at the mantle of the clam. The blue is not oversaturated. The zoas look fine as well. I run blue LEDs with my ATI T5 unit. I run a bare bottom tank. The tank bottom sits on white foam. To my eyes the glass bottom looks white, but when I take photos areas of the glass bottom look blue, especially in shadow areas.

Even if the photos are somewhat saturated, his corals are still colourful and not brown.
 
Tagging along, i have the same problem. stopped dosing Vodka/sugar/vinegar about a week ago and started to feed more often about a week ago. Just like You, i have pale colors of most of the blues under cree LEDs. Also some of my plating montis are lacking red colour, but digitata monti which is higher on the reef is nice and red, also green staghorn acro is glowing bright green. i still think this is nutrients issue and some corals just know how to facilitate light better than others. Also position on the reef might be important. My seriatopora caliendrum i salso paling from top, which i think might be LED issue, maybe i need to just loewr the percentage a bit or put the light higher (its only 11 cm/ idk 3inches? above the water level).

well we`ll share experiences:)
i`m curious

Wow, your symptoms are very similar to mine. Looking forward to what you'll find out.
 
do you run LEDS? i thought the same way until i found out the the radion leds hit over 1000 par at water level with the fixture 8" above the water line. Leds are far more superior then other lighting when it comes to par readings against the same watts. Before suggesting to others what they should or shouldn't do please do your home work.

CHECK THIS LINK OUT>>>> http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2272079&highlight=radion+par+readings

I do run LEDs.
His data is rather ambiguous. Is he testing through water, air or is he simply taking the readings from his tank? If the highest readings are from the surface, the par will drop like a rock once it hits the water. Either way, 1000par is still lower than some corals experience on a daily basis (especially those that are exposed at low tide).
 
I do run LEDs.
His data is rather ambiguous. Is he testing through water, air or is he simply taking the readings from his tank? If the highest readings are from the surface, the par will drop like a rock once it hits the water. Either way, 1000par is still lower than some corals experience on a daily basis (especially those that are exposed at low tide).

You have completely lost me on that last statement. Low tide is Mother Nature and I don't know of any MH set up that gives of 1200 par readings through water unless of course you are driving 1000watt bulbs.
 
Wow, your symptoms are very similar to mine. Looking forward to what you'll find out.

Absolutely:)
I often say keeping reef tank is just like medicine..early diagnosis leads to treatment lol.

We will definitely work on this closer together,looking forward..it jus takes time I guess
 
Well, it has been almost a month since I was running sans carbon. The only thing I've noticed is that there's some yellowing of aquarium water. Which is probably not such a good thing.
I'm not sure it is a good idea now to also stop dosing ProdiBio.
Thoughts?
 
I agree with a couple of people here, all you need to do is increase the light level to 70-75% and add Lugo solution 5-6 drops per 120 gallon once a week and your blue and purples will pop. The light has to be turned up considerably to have any effect at all. I am not a marine biologist but I have been in the reef hobby for 20 years growing SPS and LPS. With this process even any brown in color acro's will eventually turn blue as well. Good Luck!
 
I agree with a couple of people here, all you need to do is increase the light level to 70-75% and add Lugo solution 5-6 drops per 120 gallon once a week and your blue and purples will pop. The light has to be turned up considerably to have any effect at all. I am not a marine biologist but I have been in the reef hobby for 20 years growing SPS and LPS. With this process even any brown in color acro's will eventually turn blue as well. Good Luck!

Thanks, now would I want to be measuring Iodine in water for any particular level?
 
Well, it has been almost a month since I was running sans carbon. The only thing I've noticed is that there's some yellowing of aquarium water. Which is probably not such a good thing.
I'm not sure it is a good idea now to also stop dosing ProdiBio.
Thoughts?

If your water is yellow then I would do water chagr ASAP.
 
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