SPS Photosaturation PAR values

[MisterP]

Hey experts. I want to discuss how many of you use these numbers for placing corals.

I ask because I look around and see that many of the same SPS pieces can vary from tank to tank and the light requirements people recommend. I guess kind of what I'm getting at is I saw a piece today at a online vendor that recommended the piece which was a Monti Undata should receive 300-450 par. I thought that seemed extremely high for a monti.

So, I looked at some Advanced Aquarist articles on PAR and photosaturation points and noticed that monti undata listed had PAR values of < 200 for photosaturation.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/3/aafeature2


I've seen other Adv. AQ. articles list the higher light Acro's at a photosaturation point in the 300-400 range.

How many of you guys use the photosaturation point to gauge where to place a coral?

I'm thinking if the photosaturation point of a specific SPS is say 300 then anything over this would be in a sense wasted and could be moved around in the tank to optimize the photosynthesis process, right?

Thoughts?

 

[philip_r5]

Good question. Ill have to tag along.

Would be nice if there was a par for dummies w corals guide

 

[sahin]

I am no expert. But I own the Apogee PAR meter and have been taking PAR measurements over the years in my tank and other people's tanks.

I would say most Acropora are happy with around 250PAR. Some will require higher to keep vivid colours, but this is a good ballpark figure to aim for.

Yes, IMO 150-200PAR is fine for most Montipora.

However, there are exceptions. For example, the Purple Montipora Digitata IMO requires quite a bit gher to keep good colour. The Undata is another exception, and IMO is requires 300+ to have good colour.

Here is a chart that shows some data. Note that the source of this image is one of the UK's top coral farmers. The guy is also a marine biologist.

Source: http://reefworks.co.uk/

I will pull up a few other bits later on if I get the time.

 

[Dapg8gt]

Great topic interested to see how it pans out as I just got a new fixture and everything changed in the tank par wise. I am going to have to do some moving or change my bulbs configuration to try to get a lower par measurement due to slight bleaching up top. I also have access and use the apogee meter.

 

[MisterP]

Thanks for the replies so far! I think this topic would really help people figure out where to place their corals as a general staring point for light and remove a huge variable for keeping SPS happy and might even help to maximize their reefscape.

Think about it if someone knew that a certain coral has a photosaturation around 300-350 par then with a par meter it would be fairly simple to place the coral in this range near photosaturation and see the response.

I'm not saying its the ultimate indicator for SPS and lighting but it certainly seems in theory to be a logical first step in placement.

 

[sahin]

Just to say quickly: You need to bear in mind that there are a multitude of parameters that can affect SPS colouration and consequently, this is a reason why there are no SET figures and why it is only a general rule, and why mostly we say LOW, MED and HIGH light levels etc.

 

[MisterP]

I understand for sure, just thinking general placement and general requirements.

 

[sahin]

I understand for sure, just thinking general placement and general requirements.

No problem.

I took the following out of a post I made a while ago:

1. Table 1 right at the bottom of this article: - Table 1. Compensation, Saturation and Photoinhibition Points of various reef animals (which includes a few more SPS species not in above chart:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1

2 . See also this article which goes into explaining how certain colours with appear more intensified under higher PAR:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature1

3. This post has a couple of article links.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22072763&postcount=183

 

[reefmutt]

wow. already great info here.. thanks sahin! I have some reading to do..
and a par meter to buy.....

 

[MisterP]

From the 2nd article it looks as if fluorescent intensity increases up to about 400 par then actually begins to be decreased as par increase past this point.

D'Angelo and her research partners found this particular pigment was found in increasing concentrations as light intensity rose from 80 µmol·m²·sec to 100 µmol·m²·sec and finally 400 µmol·m²·sec. Fluorescent intensity decreased when light intensity was increased to 700 µmol·m²·sec (see Figure 8). Red light was least efficient in promoting the production of Pigment 484 (see Figure 9).


So not to make a blanket statement but it appears that the article shows that up to maybe 400 or so par may be the sweet spot for fluorescent pigment in some Acropora.

I wonder if all SPS reach this same point of diminishing return with color in general. I would think so but I'm not a marine bioligist.

 

[Chicago]

Tagging

 

[philip_r5]

Certainly, it appears that 200-300 µmol photons·m²·second (~10,000 – 15,000 lux) is enough light to saturate photosynthesis in many cases.

From article.

 

[Jacob Sellers]

Great information; tagging along. How does the photoperiod factor into saturation?

 

[sahin]

Great information; tagging along. How does the photoperiod factor into saturation?

The article I link below is very useful in that regard, and has examples right near the end which is what you are after I think.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/9/aafeature

 

[tdb320reef]

I think Photo inhibition and saturation changes based on factors such as nutrient levels. higher nutrients the higher the saturation and inhibition point.

 

[Kolognekoral]

Studies on S. pistillata have found that it may spend 70% of the year in photoinhibition. This coral is found at literally all depths from 5m to 50m, meaning it can adapt. It is not alone. Most corals do show strong abilities to adapt to the available lighting.

As mentioned, nutrients, flow, temperature, etc. pülay a role in a corals well being. Don't put too much weight into lighting.

specific clones may repsond to certain light intensities with specific pigments. This is a genetic quality and may not represent the species 'norm'.

A range of 150 PAR to 450 PAR, which you will find in most LED-lit tanks will allow literally any coral to find a home. As we always did, start the corals low and raise them slowly, allowing adjustment to the light. Higher flow accelerates the metabolism and thus allows for more light usage, before photoinhibition sets in.

cheers,

J.

 

[Chicago]

Tagging. Along. My tank is 34 deep. Bottom is around 100 to 200 . Middle is 300 to 450. Top third of my tank is 450 to 600. Using apogee for readings. These are reading from LEDs. My understanding though is apogee readings under LEDs are not 100 percent accurate.

 

[sahin]

Tagging. Along. My tank is 34 deep. Bottom is around 100 to 200 . Middle is 300 to 450. Top third of my tank is 450 to 600. Using apogee for readings. These are reading from LEDs. My understanding though is apogee readings under LEDs are not 100 percent accurate.

Those numbers are quite good. With the numbers for the Apogee meter, you can add 5-10% to your figures which would represent a truer set of numbers.
Dana Riddles article shows that the Apogee is fairly close to the more expensive Licor unit, and from the testing figures, the Apogee is perfect for hobbyist use.

I would only put low light SPS at the bottom. Middle to higher up is perfect PAR levels for SPS.

 

[Reefer54]

I dig the info here....heres some basic par\ light requirements on a table Sprung deemed a more appropriate (not necessarily accurate) measure than par values. And of course saturation point is not the point here. But these are also good guidelines for a wide variety of corals:

Table 1:
Sprung's Lighting Charts/ Coral Lighting Range
Stylophora/ 4-10
Briareum/ 3-10
Pocillopora/ 4-10
Pachyclavularia/ 3-9
Acropora/ 4-10
Alcyonium/ 2-9
Montipora/ 3-8
Sarcophyton/ 3-10
Fungia/ 3-10
Nephthea/ 4-10
Euphyllia/ 3-8
Dendronephthya/ 0
Blastomussa/ 2-7
Tubastraea/ 0

Now comparing that to what I have found (conversing with fellow aquarists) to be light levels measured in PAR (µmol·m²·sec). These are measured values in home aquariums with ranges formed by the recommendations of the tank owners.

Table 2: Aquarist's Lighting Recommendations

Coral/ PAR (µmol·m²·sec)

Stylophora/ 700-1000
Briareum/ 200-700
Pocillopora/ 600-900
Pachyclavularia/ 200-700
Acropora/ 600-1000
Alcyonium/ 200-800
Montipora/ 400-800
Sarcophyton/ 200-800
Fungia/ 600-900
Nephthea/ 200-900
Euphyllia/ 200-700
Dendronephtya/ Not Recommended
Blastomussa/ 200-600
Tubastraea/ Not Recommended

And finally comparing average PAR (µmol·m²·sec) values with common terms.

Table 3:

Blundell's Lighting Scale/ 1-10 scale/ µmol·m²·sec

Low Light/ 0-4/ 0-400
Medium Light/ 5-6/ 500-600
High Light/ 7-8/ 700-800
Very High Light/ 9-10/ 900-1000

 

[dknuckles]

Definitely tagging along!
Always baffles me when I hear acros kept @1000par. W/ my AI LEDs I can bake most acros w/ less than 500par except WTs TDF

Example: I read people keeping RD @300+ par, in my tank all my RD are kept in 75-100par and grow great! Put them in 300+ bye bye RD, although I read all the time that other reefers grow them in high light. I need to learn why such a varied acceptable light range

...that's why I love this hobby I am always learning.