Stand framing

itstheantitang

New member
Hi diy'ers,
I want to make a new stand for my 55.
I am going to frame it with 4x4's.
But,

What kind of joinery and screws/bolts should I use to attach the 4x4s to eachother?

(I made a stand for another tank with 2x4's, so didn't run into this problem.)
 
I just finished my 120g stand and I notched the tops of the 4x4 to hold 2x6 on end. So 2 sides of the 4x4 post had 5.5x1.5" notched out. I used 2.5" Stainless Steel screws.
 
Here is a pic.....

stand1.jpg
 
4x4 for a 55g is doable, but isn't that a little overkill?

I agree that notching the 4x4's saves space and more importantly distributes the weight in all the right places.
 
My 90 is made with 2x4 in the corners and it is more than strong enough when you put a skin of plywood around it. A 4x4 is way overkill and it not needed, I wanted as large of a usable space under my tank as possible. Somebody posted pics of there tank stand that was made out of 1/2 plywood and 1x2 in the cornders and top for ataching the boards together and it was plenty strong.

Good luck.
 
4x4's are overkill, but overkill usually gives more peace of mind. Screw the thing into some studs in the wall as well.
 
My 58g is sitting on 2x4's and the 120 will be notched 2x4's. I live in earthquake country too.
 
You can build you stand as beefy and as hefty as you want but if you think about all the old homes that are two or three stories high they are made out of 2x4 and the stud spacing varied. These houses did not fall over and did fine.

There was a post from a structual engineer that calculated you could put a 75 gallon tank on one 2x4 and it would hold it with strength to spare. It would be hard to balance that but that was what he figured out the strength of a 2x4.
 
I put a 55g on a stand made with only 2x4's, one in each corner. It had no skin or anything, just bare 2x4's. It was just a temp stand but it worked great for almost a year.
 
Agreed on 4x4s being overkill. I have a pre-made 55gal stand. It's made entirely out of mdf. IMO 2x4s are orders of magnitude stronger than what this tank is made of. 4x4s? I guess, if you're going to stack 55s 3 or 4 high (lol).

But, I also agree, if it makes you feel better, go for it.
 
2x4's are all you'll need for a 55 as long as you have them supported correclty. By that I mean having the top frame on edge and supported all the way to the floor.

I've seen way to many treated 4x4's warp over time.
 
I agree 4 X 4's are way overkill. Here is a picture of what my 55 gallon stand is like. I would be comfortable using this design for anything up to a 220 or more. Especially after seeing the perfecto 220 gallon stand which had half as much wood in it than my stand.

I have not put any sheeting on this stand yet, and there is a shet of plywood on top of what is seen that comes out flush with the 2X4 corners.

Also this stand is pretty tall. But that is just because that is how I like my tanks. It makes them feel bigger than they actualyl are. This stand is abotu 45 inches from the floor to the bottom of the tank.

stand_no_top.jpg



I should probably note that everything is held together with glue and screws except the two vertical center 2x4's those are just screwed in so that I can take them off to install a sump if needed.
 
As others have stated and as you have said as well, you should notch whatever you use so that the load is carried to the floor by the wood. Don't have the weight carried by the fasteners.
 
What supports that top frame? Looks like it's just screwed into the upright supports? There should be an upright 2x4 supporting that top frame all the way to the ground. Other than that, it looks like a nice plan.

You can also use a 2x6 or a 2x8 across that front top piece and ditch the center upright.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6567458#post6567458 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wickerj
What supports that top frame? Looks like it's just screwed into the upright supports? There should be an upright 2x4 supporting that top frame all the way to the ground. Other than that, it looks like a nice plan.

You can also use a 2x6 or a 2x8 across that front top piece and ditch the center upright.

The tanks actually only sits on the corner pieces. There is a plywood top that sits on top of the frame in the picture I posted. ALl the weight is supported by the vertical pieces. The other framing is simply ther for rigidity.
 
Maybe the drawing is throwing me off, but it looks like the top is only screwed into the vertical supports. If so, then it's supported by the screws not the 2x4's.
 
Thanks everyone!

I will build from 2x4's, I have heard and seen proof.

Another reason not to use 4x4's is the pressure treat=toxic to fish.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6568588#post6568588 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wickerj
Maybe the drawing is throwing me off, but it looks like the top is only screwed into the vertical supports. If so, then it's supported by the screws not the 2x4's.

The top is only secured to the corners by screws, but the weight of the tank is not on the top. The weight of the tank is on the corners. There is a plywood sheet that goes ontop of what is shown in the drawing and a 1/16" gap between that sheet and the top frame. The top frame is only there to keep the cprners from spreading apart.

That top frame could just as easily been located 6 inches below the top of the vertical pieces and still do their job. All the weight of the tank is supported by the 8 corner pieces and the 2 center vertical braces.
 
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