Stand is Wobbling

[davocean]

:deadhorse::hammer::deadhorse:



I Think if the op cant produce a image there are too many ifs

Sorry op But we gotta have a image to help..... Asking the same question over and over helps nobody help you....... Please do not take this as being evil minded .......

Sorry Dave was not stepping on your toes its just been dragging on..

Oh once I found out you were a girl of course I will now take everything as evil minded, can't be helped!
I agree, pics really would help, or at least measure the dang corners and tell us what you get.
And quit beating the horsies, girls are supposed to like horsies

 

[ericarenee]

Oh once I found out you were a girl of course I will now take everything as evil minded, can't be helped!
I agree, pics really would help, or at least measure the dang corners and tell us what you get.
And quit beating the horsies, girls are supposed to like horsies

....

Evil you might be.... I Broke a nail thinking about him tearing the stand apart to fix it.. That is NOT acceptable..

I take and drive a wedge between the boards then cut the screws with a fein tool.. But of course only the best of the best own a Fein tool.....

 

[davocean]

....

Evil you might be.... I Broke a nail thinking about him tearing the stand apart to fix it.. That is NOT acceptable..

I take and drive a wedge between the boards then cut the screws with a fein tool.. But of course only the best of the best own a Fein tool.....

Ah, well they make a drill motor that will pull them back out ya know, look for the the "R" :lol:
And yes, I have a perfect fein tool

 

[ericarenee]

Ah, well they make a drill motor that will pull them back out ya know, look for the the "R" [emoji38]
And yes, I have a perfect fein tool

Yea I was thinking nails and said screws. But I am blonde .Will look for that R thing you've talked about.

 

[sleepydoc]

OK, do I need to separate you two!

Besides, most of my tools have 'R's in them - DerWalt, Borsch, Hitarchi, Milwarkee

 

[davocean]

:lol:

 

[davocean]

Ugh, I bypassed quoting and landed on page 2, now no one knows what I'm laughing at, hate that!

 

[drew930]

Sorry for the delay. I had every intention to post pictures, just built the stand at the wrong time, which is at the end of my summer semester lol Here are some. Might be a little confusing. Heres what I meant....

This is the front left corner. from the side. You can see that it is not touching the 2x6's. I can just raise this end correct, by backing the screw out, putting a longer leg between the 2x6 and 2x4 frame, then screwing it back in ? This will take care of this problem?



This picture is the back right corner from the side. As you can clearly see, I screwed in the side board too high, so the tank is just sitting on the side board and not the on the back. I can just back the screws out as well and drop it down ? Screw it back in so the screws will not go previous hole bigger.



This is what is being caused by the back right corner above ^. Since the tank is resting on that side board ^, it is not touching the back, which is this picture. There is a gap of light you can see.


What I meant by fixing, is can I do what I think I can do ? Or I am going to have to build a new one? I think that the bottom can be shimmed as some of you mentioned previous . Ill have to shim one side or the other after I see which is need for tank to be level.

Thanks to you all for being patient !

 

[davocean]

Well it does look like you missed it on that side board, and most likely can take up that gap by pulling and redoing it, at same level as back board, and put new screws in new locations so you don't just draw it back to where it is now.
Looks like your lumber is a little off, maybe a good sanding across top might help, but on a trimmed tank you mainly need the support at 4 corners.
I ALWAYS use wood glue, glue is actually stronger than nails, it may be to your benefit in this case though if you did not.

 

[drew930]

Well it does look like you missed it on that side board, and most likely can take up that gap by pulling and redoing it, at same level as back board, and put new screws in new locations so you don't just draw it back to where it is now.
Looks like your lumber is a little off, maybe a good sanding across top might help, but on a trimmed tank you mainly need the support at 4 corners.
I ALWAYS use wood glue, glue is actually stronger than nails, it may be to your benefit in this case though if you did not.

I actually used glue and screws on my last one for my 180. But it was a beast and I built it a lot better. I am using screws in this on, not nails . I didn't know if you thought I was using nails, or you were just trying explain how strong it is ? I should have used it, but glad I didn't, because I would be SCREWED! (not pun intened) I will probably sand the wood. There are some edges to it where some boards overhang a tiny bit as you mentioned. Heres my last one:

 

[davocean]

Seems sometimes we make mistakes or forget things that seem like the forces allowed us to correct those actions.
Yes that is my standard saying, glue is stronger than nails.
I usually pin my stuff together lightly w/ a light gauge nail gun, cross check, then fire heavy gauge or screws, or both, and always predrill/counter sink.
I always glue, but I make sure I know I'm good first, because I dread ever having to pull apart glued boards, the boards will tear apart before the union does if glued properly.

 

[drew930]

Gotcha . That makes sense. I drilled pilot holes to avoid cracking. I did not countersink as you can see. Was going to add paneling overtop with glue to hide the screws, but I may not. I may just paint it. Add some big panels on each of the sides and the front, then maybe so trim on the corners. But this probably won't cover all of them up lol I might try to cut some paneling up and see how it looks.

So if I do what I mentioned above, I should be good ? Then just shim it on the bottom. Looks like probably a good amount. When I hold it in place, either the front right or back left will need shimmed from about 1/4 of the way down. Without measuring how much yet, looks like 18"24". Then in the corners/side.

 

[ericarenee]

OK, do I need to separate you two!

Besides, most of my tools have 'R's in them - DerWalt, Borsch, Hitarchi, Milwarkee

You do know i was messing with Dave right..

My Air tools are Senco..

Battey powered tools are all Ridgid... You only buy them once . Free repair even batteries for life. And they ARE TOUGH.. I have 8 Big batteries and 4 small ones. and a Charger for each ... The Ridged rep at our home depot Likes me....

Well my big table saw is Ridgid
my Compound slide saw is Belt Driver Ridgid
my Planer is a OLD OLD OLD Delta....
most of the others are kinda random..
OHH There is a Home depot literly at the end of The Street we live on..... And my Neighbor is the manager there....

But then again i never use the R Because i never make a Mistake.. :mad2:

 

[ericarenee]

I actually used glue and screws on my last one for my 180. But it was a beast and I built it a lot better. I am using screws in this on, not nails . I didn't know if you thought I was using nails, or you were just trying explain how strong it is ? I should have used it, but glad I didn't, because I would be SCREWED! (not pun intened) I will probably sand the wood. There are some edges to it where some boards overhang a tiny bit as you mentioned. Heres my last one:

This actually looks Good and strong...as Dave said the mistake is a simple fix.

Even Dave makes mistakes sometimes.. Erica Says she understands he is a BOY...

But yea exactly what he said.. Just raise it up and NEW SCREW HOLES..
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This.
If its just one spot you need to adjust Raise it up screw it in place and fill the Gap with wedge i see no reason to tear out the leg and Re cut it The LEG .. It will be strong.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for images.. Was not trying to be hard on you...

 

[drew930]

Hey no problem ! I appreciate all of you help . Sounds like you all have some tools I could borrow! lol do what do you mean by a wedge ? Like a thin piece cut off the end of a 2x4 ? Real then one like 1/8" or what ever it needs to be ? And for the bottom , when I shim I have to basically wedge it where there are gaps right ? Don't just use a couple shims to get it level , but rather fill in all the way around it correct ?

 

[davocean]

You do know i was messing with Dave right..

You did?
I didn't even remember or feel it, you must have Cosby'd me!

 

[Talis]

Way to much work being suggested. Use a hand plane on the top to get the tank to sit flush and shim the bottom to remove any wobble and level the tank.

Simple..

 

[sleepydoc]

You do know i was messing with Dave right..

But then again i never use the R Because i never make a Mistake.. :mad2:

Yup - Maybe I should've put a smiley after my post so you guys knew I was too. Oh well, here's one: :eek1: I thought about threatening to stop the car, too!

I didn't include Widgid on my list of tools because it doesn't have an R in it's name!

..."Never use the R" ?

That stinks about your arm. :sad2: Hope you're feeling better soon.

Ok - Assuming this is built like the other stand you posted and we're looking at it from the end so that the 2x we've viewing from the end is under the front of the tank, you could potentially unscrew it, reposition the members so everything is lined up and then re-drill & screw it in place. Assuming it is built like the other stand you posted, both of those boards should be resting on the same vertical 2x4. If they are not even on top, it would mean that the horizontal boards are not the same width, which is a different & bigger problem. Regardless both of the boards should be solidly resting on the vertical support underneath them.

 

[davocean]

Way to much work being suggested. Use a hand plane on the top to get the tank to sit flush and shim the bottom to remove any wobble and level the tank.

Simple..

Yeah good luck making it perfect across the top of doug fir 2x w/ a hand planer, and you wanna talk about too much work...
I'll take a belt sander or even a hand block sander w/ 80-100 grit to it long before chunking it up w/ a hand planer.

 

[Talis]

We don't need perfect, just close with no high spots between the corners. It's an ideal job for a hand plane.

"Chunking" it up is a result of a dull blade and going against the grain. That should never happen with relatively soft straight grained wood like doug fir.