Stand is Wobbling

drew930

New member
My stand is wobbling. Everything measured out right length and width wise. Height in each corner is the same, so I guess I have a warped bored that I didnt see when putting it together. I have put it on multiple areas, so its not the floor. It will go on carpet not concrete or wood though so maybe it will be less. But when I move the weight to one side, there is a decent gap from the corner to the middle of the stand, casually getting smaller until it touches the floor. Maybe 1/8'-1/4"? Ill have to measure. Should I just put shims underneath the stand where it does not ground, or does it have to be fixed.

Thought I put it together pretty good but guess I was wrong. Any help would be appreciated . Thank you.
 
Even if you have straight boards, it's easy for a stand to rack a bit when you put it together. For that matter, many floors are not flat, either, so even a square stand can wobble. place the stand in its final position, then shim it as necessary.

Also, check to see if the top is flat as well. If the bottom is not coplanar, the top may not be either, and that is a much bigger concern. If the top is not flat, it will not adequately support the tank.

Also, I would consider putting tile under the area where the tank will be. Much easier to keep clean and tolerant of spills.
 
Honestly I would re do it. If its for the 10 gallon in your sig then Id guess youd be ok. Not really sure on that though because of the thin walls of a 10 gallon fish tank, but anything long term should have square edges and sit flat because it could cause uneven pressure on the walls of the tank causing a leak. If it did seem to work long term it would lower the safety factor for the inhabitants of the tank and for their sake I would square the stand with a level. Provides peace of mind and you know for a fact you wont have water on the floor when you come home from work. Just my 2 cents.
 
If your cuts were all accurate (all legs the same length, etc), if the bottom is not coplanar I really don't think the top can be either. I would put the empty tank on it and see. If it does happen to be ok, then you can get away with shimming under the stand. If the top is off as well as I suspect it probably is, the only real option will be to try again.
 
It's for a 120. Hate that it ended up this way . Every cut and measurement was right. I'm trying to find the problem and can't seem to . Would hate to rebuild it entirely , but wouldn't be bad if I could find a bad board or two . Tried putting a straight edge to every board to see if there's a warp but can't really find it .

I guess I will try sleepydoc's advice first then, if it's still wobbling , I'll have to rebuild like you others are suggesting .
 
Even if everything is cut straight and there are no warped boards, the top (or bottom) can be non-planar. Think of a piece of paper with a diagonal crease in it. Each of the edges is straight, but each of the triangles formed by the diagonal crease is in a slightly different plane.
 
Measure the stand at a Diagonal from corner to corner. Say top right bottom left.. bottom right top left. This will tell you if its warped...
Also. WITH A Level. Longer then the stand itself... Laser if you have one.. Draw a line all the way around the stand middle ways HORIZONTALLY.. Then measure from bottom up to the line around the stand . and from top down to the line..
Doing the above you will find exactly what is NOT Correct.......



My GUESS Is you are using a short level and a speed square.. i always use level as long as i can work with on the project and a Framing square not a speed square. human eye is not accurate enough
 
Yea I'll measure it ... It's hard to tell cause if you sit eye level with it , the top doesnt line up . Like if you sit from the side or from the front at eye level , and try to put one side inline with the other one from the distance , 1 corner is always lower . I'll measure it and maybe flip it over and do the same thing with bottom ? See if everything lines up by looking eye level ? Don't have a laser so this will be with a measuring tape and a 24" level . Maybe I can find a longer one .
 
Agree w/ ericarenee, could be out of square.
I constantly cross check corner to corner on every panel, often I pin nail first, measure, then secure solid.
Maybe post pics so we might see what is going on or what might be the easiest resolve.
 
Yea I'll measure it ... It's hard to tell cause if you sit eye level with it , the top doesnt line up . Like if you sit from the side or from the front at eye level , and try to put one side inline with the other one from the distance , 1 corner is always lower . I'll measure it and maybe flip it over and do the same thing with bottom ? See if everything lines up by looking eye level ? Don't have a laser so this will be with a measuring tape and a 24" level . Maybe I can find a longer one .

Here is the thing.
For Building a Cabinet.... Other then setting it in place a LEVEL is not needed..

I Cut all the pieces for my skin... Lay each piece on top each other and check them with the method i mentioned above..

Tack them together lining everything up perfectly... If you know they were square and everything lined up its going to be level and plumb But maybe not square. top and bottom..
Then i will cut my inside floor for a aquarium stand it would be where the sump will sit... CUT this perfect again so sit Right inside the box you build..
Double check that its square by corner cross check corner to corner.
Then i will cut the top. doing the same method but sizing it depending on rather or not its going on top or be recessed..

After then for a 10 gallon tank Cut some cleats for around the top and the bottom out of 1x2 Make two boxes put the plywood onto these two boxes and get it square with the method of cross checking corners... Sit the shell you made first over the inside box.. This will square you skin. Then do the same for the top one.... Put a door on and you are done.....

NOT A LEVEL NEEDED.

issues with a level.. I HAVE TESTED THIS MANY TIMES

Take two 20 year plus Carpenters.. and a Good LEVEL...
take two levels a 2 ft and a 6 ft
Have one of them lay the 2 ft level on two shims and get it perfectly level. between the bubbles
Then have the second carpenter to check it... I bet you 9 out of 10 times the second carpenter will adjust it... .
NOW Get both carpenters to look at the 2 ft level and compromise to what they both agree is perfect or near as they can agree..
NOW Place the 6 foot level on top the two foot level but only at the first 2 feet .
NOW LOOK AT THE End bubble on the 6 foot level.. You will be amazed ..9 out of 10 times it will be off. often even out of the bubble..... I can see a bow or crown in a wall from across the room but my eyes are still not good enough to Frame by level only .... For framing walls a Plumb bob NO LEVEL UNLESS you just want it close...

Full size framing square and cross checking .. the keys to a perfect square plumb and level cabinet..... a Level is used to set the cabinet to match the rough framing


The larger a span the more useless a level is.... OF Course that does not apply to a water level..... To this day there is NOTHING More accurate You cant use a laser in the top of a high rise building.. even the newer ones.. SO YOU Must start with a known square.


Good Luck .. hope my ramblings help you some.. I would make a LOUSY Teacher.....:headwally:
 
Ericarenee,

No lol your not a lousy teacher. I appreciate any help I can get . I think my cuts are good but I may have assembled it wrong . I made the top and bottom , then connected the legs to the top, then to the bottom , then made my platform for sump . Maybe this is what threw it off .
 
Ericarenee,

No lol your not a lousy teacher. I appreciate any help I can get . I think my cuts are good but I may have assembled it wrong . I made the top and bottom , then connected the legs to the top, then to the bottom , then made my platform for sump . Maybe this is what threw it off .

Yea . Its just not easy to get everything square with that many pieces ..
Not seeing your stand if its STRONG and if when you have it in the place your going to put the tank.. The surface the tank sits on needs to be flat level and not warped..

We have made this way too complicated..
simple solution Just put the tank on it... Fill it half full of water and shim under the stand to be level.. Just be sure the tank sits true on its surface. If not put a piece of 1/2 foam under the tank.. Done and Done.....:beer:.

Sorry for all the other Technical framing stuff....:deadhorse:

You can see my tank my pond my shelving and my hard wood floors that i put in..... to the left
 
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What do you mean by 'wobbling'? Stand 'racks' when in place or only three out of four legs touch the floor at a time? Assuming the latter, just shim the short leg, place the empty tank on the stand and check all around the perimeter of said tank for any gaps. If no gaps, you're good to go. Then check for level and shim further as required.

BTW, a picture of the stand would help with diagnosis.
 
I mean 3 legs are touching at one time . I can grab the sand and make the third leg the front right corner or back left corner . So basically , 2 legs are always touching but I can but pressure on it to make either front or back the third leg .... Also I put the tank on it , and the tank is only touching in like 2 spots . Left front corner is low .... And my right side board is high . This is keeping the tank from touching in the back ... If I fix these boards , the tanks bottom trim will be touching board all the way around. Then it's just the bottom frame. I took some pics but will have to post later tonight or tomorrow . Trying to set up a tank and study for finals is hard to do at the same time !
 
Ok - so you have one problem: the stand is not square making the top not coplanar. A wobbling stand is easy to fix with shims. A top that's not planar is not. Unless you fix the top, you cannot fix the stand. With a completely assembled stand I don't see how fixing the top would be feasible, but pics would help.
 
It depends on how you fastened everything.
At this point if you are lucky you did not glue it, and you may be able to back out screws or nails and rack it back to square and then add new nails or screws in different places than before.
This is of course if that is your issue, measure every corner to corner and see where it may be out.
 
It depends on how you fastened everything.
At this point if you are lucky you did not glue it, and you may be able to back out screws or nails and rack it back to square and then add new nails or screws in different places than before.
This is of course if that is your issue, measure every corner to corner and see where it may be out.

:deadhorse::hammer::deadhorse:



I Think if the op cant produce a image there are too many ifs

Sorry op But we gotta have a image to help..... Asking the same question over and over helps nobody help you....... Please do not take this as being evil minded .......

Sorry Dave was not stepping on your toes its just been dragging on..
 
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