We don't need perfect, just close with no high spots between the corners. It's an ideal job for a hand plane.
"Chunking" it up is a result of a dull blade and going against the grain. That should never happen with relatively soft straight grained wood like doug fir.
but i am erica renee goddess of the lumber yard....queen of the nail gun... Mistress of the framing square........ Princess of all other things....:bounce2:
Ericarenee ,
You posted that as I was typing lol that was another question . I'll probably try to back screws out and such , but if not I was going to ask if I could just rip a shim the size of the gap. But for the bottom would this be better or individual shims spaced out ? ^^
Thanks
So basically no matter what I do , it's the top that matters , and the rest can be shimmed. As long as the tank is touching the boards all the way around , I'm good ? And if for some reason there still is a small gap that isn't too big , as long as all the corners AND most of the tank is touching I'm fine ?
Then for the bottom shim .... Do I rip a 2x4 for one big shim and fill the gap entirely ? Or could I use multiple wood shims , and then break them off ? Basically , does the bottom frame either have to be touching ground or shim , or can there be gaps between the individual shims ?
So basically no matter what I do , it's the top that matters , and the rest can be shimmed. As long as the tank is touching the boards all the way around , I'm good ? And if for some reason there still is a small gap that isn't too big , as long as all the corners AND most of the tank is touching I'm fine ?
Then for the bottom shim .... Do I rip a 2x4 for one big shim and fill the gap entirely ? Or could I use multiple wood shims , and then break them off ? Basically , does the bottom frame either have to be touching ground or shim , or can there be gaps between the individual shims ?
love it!!
Yes, you could do it that way, but my first thought would be try to do it right and move that rim up to where it should be, the ripper would be a good plan B
Actually, Dave was just responding to Erica!
It's what I do, helping damsels in distress...
She's a kick, I like girls mixed into my trade, especially ones that seem to know a thing or two and not be afraid of being silly.
Hey i wanna help her as well.. You cant have all the fun..:bounce2:
As for the pond liner question, that is the best really for actually sealing and holding water, but I agree it looks dirty fast, and it's not cheap.
I see some people use linoleum, wipes clean fairly easy, lots of color options.
I myself do just use a paintable/stainable clear caulking, the stuff that goes on white but dries clear, Alex plus.
I stain, then clear coat w/ polyeurethane, let dry well, then caulk, let that dry real good, then clear w/ poly one more time.
This works for me.
Okay. Yea I just didn't know if the water would go through the wood if for some reason I didn't see a leak for awhile . So I'll caulk around it then paint . Hopefully it comes out good ! Is there a rul of thumb how big the gap can be between the bottom plywood and the legs ? I guess you should make it tight as possible , but if there is a big gap , just caulk it like crazy right ?