Stand is Wobbling

We don't need perfect, just close with no high spots between the corners. It's an ideal job for a hand plane.

"Chunking" it up is a result of a dull blade and going against the grain. That should never happen with relatively soft straight grained wood like doug fir.

This a big gap and if the tank is sitting on the stand all the way around except that one edge... You are going to likely make it worse with the planer ...


Maybe a power planer but they still gouge the wood . i would ripe a shim and glue it under the tank on that corer if i could not just raise the lumber up to where it should be............

But i am Erica Renee Goddess of the Lumber Yard....Queen of the Nail Gun... Mistress of the Framing square........ Princess of all other things....:bounce2:
 
So basically no matter what I do , it's the top that matters , and the rest can be shimmed. As long as the tank is touching the boards all the way around , I'm good ? And if for some reason there still is a small gap that isn't too big , as long as all the corners AND most of the tank is touching I'm fine ?

Then for the bottom shim .... Do I rip a 2x4 for one big shim and fill the gap entirely ? Or could I use multiple wood shims , and then break them off ? Basically , does the bottom frame either have to be touching ground or shim , or can there be gaps between the individual shims ?
 
Ericarenee ,

You posted that as I was typing lol that was another question . I'll probably try to back screws out and such , but if not I was going to ask if I could just rip a shim the size of the gap. But for the bottom would this be better or individual shims spaced out ? ^^

Thanks
 
Ericarenee ,

You posted that as I was typing lol that was another question . I'll probably try to back screws out and such , but if not I was going to ask if I could just rip a shim the size of the gap. But for the bottom would this be better or individual shims spaced out ? ^^

Thanks

Yes, you could do it that way, but my first thought would be try to do it right and move that rim up to where it should be, the ripper would be a good plan B
 
So basically no matter what I do , it's the top that matters , and the rest can be shimmed. As long as the tank is touching the boards all the way around , I'm good ? And if for some reason there still is a small gap that isn't too big , as long as all the corners AND most of the tank is touching I'm fine ?

Then for the bottom shim .... Do I rip a 2x4 for one big shim and fill the gap entirely ? Or could I use multiple wood shims , and then break them off ? Basically , does the bottom frame either have to be touching ground or shim , or can there be gaps between the individual shims ?

Pretty much all correct here, and do as you wish for bottom/shimming, as long as you have support under verticals that is most important and then hit spacing between to prevent any sagging.
 
So basically no matter what I do , it's the top that matters , and the rest can be shimmed. As long as the tank is touching the boards all the way around , I'm good ? And if for some reason there still is a small gap that isn't too big , as long as all the corners AND most of the tank is touching I'm fine ?

Then for the bottom shim .... Do I rip a 2x4 for one big shim and fill the gap entirely ? Or could I use multiple wood shims , and then break them off ? Basically , does the bottom frame either have to be touching ground or shim , or can there be gaps between the individual shims ?

Exactly........ The bottom if your skills are there one big shim would be good as well.... but as long as its shimmed well to prevent sagging
love it!!

I cant help the truth....

Yes, you could do it that way, but my first thought would be try to do it right and move that rim up to where it should be, the ripper would be a good plan B

1+ LETS SEE SOME WATER IN THIS THING..... :deadhorse1:

Time to move to the Do i use teflon tape or not thread... ANSWER NO....

Use thread sealer........

NOW Turn the pump on...

YOUR GETTING There Drew.. Sorry for so much humor in your thread.. Its Dave Fault..
 
Actually, Dave was just responding to Erica!

Yes, the top needs to be flat to evenly support the tank all around, however that's accomplished. As far as the bottom goes, you can do it either way. Since all the weight of the tank is ultimately transmitted to the vertical members, shimming under these is fine. (Nothing wrong with shimming the entire length, either)
 
Lol I don't mind the humor . Keeps me thinking clear and trying not to get frustrated ! Yea I will do that then ... Hopefully get some water in it soon . Going to take me forever lol trying to see if there's a local shop willing to loan out a tank so I can haul some water in instead of waiting 6 days for water lol hopefully get his stand squared away this weekend then get some water in it .... I usually put pond liner in the bottom . Lately I've been seeing people using silicone between the bottom plywood and the legs ? Does this work good ? Would rather not use liner cause it's not as clean .
 
Actually, Dave was just responding to Erica!

It's what I do, helping damsels in distress...:p
She's a kick, I like girls mixed into my trade, especially ones that seem to know a thing or two and not be afraid of being silly.

As for the pond liner question, that is the best really for actually sealing and holding water, but I agree it looks dirty fast, and it's not cheap.
I see some people use linoleum, wipes clean fairly easy, lots of color options.
I myself do just use a paintable/stainable clear caulking, the stuff that goes on white but dries clear, Alex plus.
I stain, then clear coat w/ polyeurethane, let dry well, then caulk, let that dry real good, then clear w/ poly one more time.
This works for me.
 
It's what I do, helping damsels in distress...:p
She's a kick, I like girls mixed into my trade, especially ones that seem to know a thing or two and not be afraid of being silly.


Hey i wanna help her as well.. You cant have all the fun..:bounce2:

As for the pond liner question, that is the best really for actually sealing and holding water, but I agree it looks dirty fast, and it's not cheap.
I see some people use linoleum, wipes clean fairly easy, lots of color options.
I myself do just use a paintable/stainable clear caulking, the stuff that goes on white but dries clear, Alex plus.
I stain, then clear coat w/ polyeurethane, let dry well, then caulk, let that dry real good, then clear w/ poly one more time.
This works for me.



Dryloc works as well. But calk then paint several coats... I just let the water run onto the floor and into the basement sump..
 
Okay. Yea I just didn't know if the water would go through the wood if for some reason I didn't see a leak for awhile . So I'll caulk around it then paint . Hopefully it comes out good ! Is there a rul of thumb how big the gap can be between the bottom plywood and the legs ? I guess you should make it tight as possible , but if there is a big gap , just caulk it like crazy right ?
 
Okay. Yea I just didn't know if the water would go through the wood if for some reason I didn't see a leak for awhile . So I'll caulk around it then paint . Hopefully it comes out good ! Is there a rul of thumb how big the gap can be between the bottom plywood and the legs ? I guess you should make it tight as possible , but if there is a big gap , just caulk it like crazy right ?

Wedge a shim in there Trim it off then caulk...
 
The less gap the better, over an 1/8" gap caulk may take a long time to dry/cure inside.
A shim wedges and cut works, long lengths of big gaps we sometimes use small rope or cord for backing(Not on my own projects, I have to keep tighter than that) but you get the idea.
 
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