BeanMachine
Active member
Did those zoas open up?
Did those zoas open up?
Sorry no video trying to rid the tank I got ich from the frags OR the quarantined fish weren't as health as I expected. IDK. Sucks but either way I have to try and fix is
1. Setup hospital tanks with copper
2. Catch fish.... somewhere between hard and impossible.
3. Put large UV on system to maybe SLOW? The process giving me time to catch/trap all the fish.
4. Let tank lay fallow for 6-8weeks
This sucks spent extra to buy QT fish and still end up $h!t creek.
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I have a 20 long and lots of heaters, etc for QT.
Thank you for the offer I have my QT tanks still. I just didn’t want to have to set them up.
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Who did you buy fish from? How long was their quarantine process? Seems fishy to me that anyone would put that amount of effort to properly QT for 6 to 8 weeks before selling fish.
My vote is for you to just feed heavy. Add some selcon if you want. I purchased some garlic guard but I will never ever use that again. It smelled so terrible and you can smell it through the container. So disgusting.
The fish are stressed in a new tank. I had an ich outbreak initially in my system and with regular feedings with a variety of foods it went away on its own and hasn't been back for many months now.
UV VLOG UPDATE.
I bought a Aqua UV 57watt. Seems to have helped. Plan on running it for at least 3 months. Might make it permanent not sure yet.
https://youtu.be/BVswaByVIQs
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Did you have a look here https://aquaultraviolet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/UV-Charts-Salt-and-Fresh-Water-Web.pdf
for flow recommendations to get particular dose? I might run it at 90,000 uw/cm2 until your ich problem abates, then back it off to the recommended 30-45K.
Regarding ich it's always in your tank no matter how mature or healthy your fish are. When the fish stress out ich will appear so the best way to avoid ich is less stress for the fish.
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I did read that and I should have add a part to the video explaining why I didn't use that dose. Aqua UV recommended 30-45k when I was there in person. The manual as you showed recommended 90k and pentair recommends 180k. So I was originally shooting for 90-180k which is 533-1066 gallons per hour about according to manual if they calculated it correctly.
But, The COR 15 can't push that much water 425 gallons per hour at 100% (measured)... so at 30% it still pushes 380 gallons/41watts (measured draw) comes out to 181,600uw/cm2.
I do not know which manufacturers recommendations is best 90k or 180k. I went for the high number because... Ummm... more horsepower? Maybe? IDK... It was a guess. I could drop it to 160k but I can't get to 90k. COR15 won't push enough water.
If I wanted to flow the recommended higher numbers I need to plumb my system with larger than 1" pipe. Maybe 2" would get the job done with Iwaki pump.
I was hoping the BRS episode was going to be more insightful than it was but UV is difficult to get good advise on. I was looking around for a good thread on UV but I haven't found it on clay-boa or ReefCentral.
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Higher dose will do a better job of killing free swimming plankton, parasites, etc. Like Anthony said, it is unlikely that you will get rid of 100% of ich in your tank, but knocking the numbers down will probably be helpful. I run an AquaUV 57w in my 150g reef, but it is on a manifold and doesn't see 100% of the flow.
Have you noticed any effects with Algea like I saw?
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