Started from a nano, now I'm here

IMO you should not cut the nems. You will stress them out and then there will be additional stress when you add them to your new tank.
 
I was growing darker brown algae and was told this is because my lights are not the right spectrum or bright enough.
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So I switched out my ATS light bulbs. I always heard 6500k lighting for planted aquariums was perfect. Turns out that was because it helped plants to grow and looked good to the eye. Now that the light bulbs are under my fish tank, I should have 2500k-3500k light bulbs. So I went to the big box store and bought some new CFLs.
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I also bought a cutting board and a long razor used for paint. I plan on slice and dicing tonight. Wish me luck :)



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Just wanted to show what moving all my corals from small nano to 72 bow looks like:
Ammonia looks good:
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Nitrates look to be 0.25ppm:
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Corals looking good:
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Individual zoom ins:
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Following 1 day in larger tank:
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Great build! Glad all has come out so well.



Thanks a bunch! Patience and careful planning is key. Like I said on page one, I started planning over a year ago. Saved up my money month by month and waited for sales and planned out what was critical to success month after month. That is how you can drop an anemone into your tank after it has been fully functioning for just 5 days and have the nems double in size in just days.

Photo from today:
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As you can see, the nems and frog spawn and candy cane coral have all doubled and then some in size in one weeks time. Trust in the process!

One big tip, fish cause problems rapidly, not corals. Less fish means less rapid problems, usually. I in fact do not have a fish tank as there isn't a single fish inside my glass boxes and do not yet have a fish tank. I only have an underwater garden. COWLR (coral only, with live rock) is how I planned on starting this tank and proving my theory. Maybe you could even call it a Moo tank ;)


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Update:

Added 3 fish a while ago. Yellow tang, diamond sleeper goby, and firefish.

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Just added a coral beauty
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Nitrates are 0.2ppm after 2 months no water change. However, I checked my calcium and it was at 320 along with dkH of 6.2. I'm now slowly adding those two products to bring back up to 420 and 9.0 respectively. My salinity has not changed at .024 and temp of 25c is holding constant. pH is checked my controller and is about 8.0-8.2 depending on time of day.
Just in case you don't believe me:
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ATS still makes noise but is much more quiet:
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Trying to figure out why my algae is yellow more than green.

Also, the sleeper goby kicks up a lot of particulate. I added some filter floss in my sump and that seems to have helped a little. Mesh filter socks don't do the job but cloth does.


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How is the Cerebra doing for you?

Kevin



It is acting just as they advertise. This is my first controller and it is very simple and intuitive to use. I still have yet to set up connectivity to my phone but that feature isn't so important to me anyway.


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So my latest addition to the tank probably has ich.. day one there wasn't any spots, day 3 a large spot appeared, day 4 many tiny white spots, and today I'll look again.

Any future advice for me?
I read that seachem makes a good product that is reef safe. I'm thinking about if I should just treat my whole system or take the little guy out for QT and treat him separately.

My LFS actually quarantines their fish 3 weeks before they sell them to the public. However, my wife bought this one prior to that period being over (2 weeks in anti ich/fungal water) as it was the only one they had and looked okay. I'm thinking the fish got stressed on the 1.5 hour ride home which spurred the outbreak.


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IMO those whole tank treatments can't be any good since proper treatments for ich aren't reef safe. I would take all of the fish out and do TTM then leave the tank fallow if possible.

I don't trust those "ich prevention" water claims by stores it is just low dose copper so they can sell you a fish without it looking diseased even though it can still carry the pathogen


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Agreed. Make sure it's properly id'd as ich. Then TTM to break the cycle. And leave the display tank fishless for 9 weeks. Never use anything from QT to the display or vice versa.

Kevin
 
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