Startin Back up...advice please

[jcarrara]

I've decided to start my system back up and I am looking for some advice. I currently have a 75 gal corner overflow tank with a wet dry system, ETSS 500 skimmer and a turbo twist uv. Historically I have kept an FO setup, but now I am considering going with a FOWLR system. My reason for this is that I would like to "ease" into a reef over the next couple of years and feel starting with live rock will set a good foundation for this, rather than having to tear down the FO system later on when I can just start off on the right foot at the beginning.....make sense?

My wet-dry is in rough shape and I plan on tossing the whole thing and the ETSS as well. Right now I am on Jeff Turchecks waiting list at Lifereef for a new system to be built in april/may time frame. Originally when Jeff and I spoke I was plannig on another wet-dry with a skimmer for my FOWLR sytem. My thinking was that I could convert this wet dry to a simple berlin style sump at any time and having LR as well as the wet-dry for filtration for a year or two, even though considered"overkill" couldn't hurt....right?


But the more research I do....the more I'm leaning towards one of his berlin systems. They are less expensive (the difference in price will go twards the live rock), give me more room to work with in the sump, less overall maintenance (from what I've read), provide more stable water quality and it just seems like the best root to go. ....agree??...disagree?? (it sounds like I'm answering my own qustion....just lookin for some moral support I guess)

Also, this being my first venture into Live rock & Live Sand I was hopping if someone could pass along a solid article/link or two, to obtain as much info as possible on the subject. I have read alot of threads and to be honest my head is spinning a little....base rock, good rock, cured rock, cooked rock...etc,etc. I tend not to trust my LFS because.....well I'm sure you know why.

Also I currently have a simple 48 inch HO compact strip light made by all-glass. Both bulbs are toast, but I believe I can simply replace the bulbs and be in good shape as far as lighting goes for my FOWLR...y/n? Any suggestions on the bulbs? or do I need to fork over some more cash on an upgrade? I know when I "go reef" I'll have to make the investment.

And one last question...I think I'm gonna go with a RO/DI system as well. Tradionally I've used tap in my FOs with no noticible issues. Is this a "must have" with FOWLR. I have no clue as to my current tap water quality.

Sorry for writing a "bible", but now that I'm in the "planning stages" I want to make sure I'm doing things right.

Thanks in advance for any of your comments and suggestion.

John

 

[toothman]

wow that is a lot!

I would consider a live rock fish tank a nice upgrade from no rock.

If I were to plan a new tank I would recommend you follow this recipe.

Get or make a sump with at least one baffle to keep the water level constant for a skimmer.

Use 1 lb of walt smith fiji rock per gallon or slightly less with a non coral tank.

Buy a inexpensive asm skimmer. (I have a etss in the closet also)
needle wheel skimmers work great and are real quiet and energy efficient.


Spring for the expense of a tunze stream powerhead. (also real quiet and energy efficient) Even though there is not coral, the added water flow over the rock will noticeably keep sediment out of the tank and water quality up. Think a lot of flow.

Use a ro/di with a float switch in the sump (in the part where the return pump is) or even better, a separate water top off container.

Filter socks are a matter of debate I like them.

heater your choice, ego jagger for me.

Chiller I hope not, they are a lot of money.

Change 20% of the water weekly. (after the tank is cycled) This will bring your tank to a great level, if you feel like taking the time and dough for the salt and ro water.

This will be a successful tank.

Good luck!
Ed Ralff

 

[The Reefer91]

ok, let me help. i'm planning too and let me share what i've learned go with the berlin sump(moral support) personally, i am going to build mine just so i can have it the way i want it(and because i don't have the money to buya pre-built one ) just be sure NOT TO USE BIO-BALLS. they do a good job of breaking down ammonia and nitrite, but guess what's left. none other than...nitrate! :mad2:

next up. as for live rock, go with it. live sand is optional. all sand will be come "live" eventually, it's just live sand comes with creatures that stir the sand. Live rock is the best IMO form of biological filtration. it's nice to look at and you can never have too much(well.... ) as for all the different phrases, they mean different things. live rock is a HUGE catogory. good rock is rock that has good growth, no hitchhikers or dead things on them, and has nice shape and size.

base rock=dead rock. it's not alive(but like sand) will become alive over time.

cooking rock you can do for any system, but is a must for BB tanks (barebottom tanks) it gets all the crud of the rocks, but it takes awhile( so if you're impatient like me, you won't end up taking this route:lol: )

curing rock is like cooking rock, but takes less time and it's just to get the obvious dead stuff off.

and finally lighting

if you want reef, you need good lighting. this comes in many forms and arguments. MHmetal halide) is the best in my opinion. there is VHO(very high output fluerescent) PC (power compact)
and T-5(generally high output)

if you want SPS eventually, or clams, i'd recomend MH lights with actinic supplements. it's not neccesary, but it's better.

but for now, your PC lights will be fine as long as you don't have coral in the tank.

Hope you enjoyed my long and boring response(too much detale, but it happens)