Starting 3-day lights out today . . .

lcs

It's Spring!!!!!!!
I've been fighting cyano for the last couple of months after the tank was neglected for several months before that. The tank is in the livingroom, which is fairly dark, but it does face a window about 12' away. The curtains are a light color so don't block all the light by a long shot.

Should I cover the tank so it's completely dark? Maybe leave just the top open? I have a light fixture resting on the tank's rim, so I was thinking of draping a blanket over that. What about at night when the room lights are on? From what I've read, I'm not clear on just how dark the tank needs to be.

I really don't like not being able to see/watch my tank!!
 
Did the same thing for the same reasons. My tank is in the dinning room with double glass doors and two north facing windows next to the tank. I didn't block either of these, I also left the LED moonlights on so I could see what was going on with the fish. The only problem that arose was the Ich that had barely been a nuisance used the dark period to maul my Hippo tang. Cyno was eliminated however.
 
I used thick black plastic and taped over the front of our tank when we did it. You need zero light. We didn't even open the room to the back of the tank since it could let in some ambient light.
 
If you can post a before and after pic
I thought of doing that. After I had siphoned most of the sandbed! :rolleyes: I'll have to see if I can find an earlier shot with it on the sandbed/rocks.

I did remove the blanket for about 30min. so the fish could eat, but that's it.
 
I am not saying any of you are wrong, as I am sure most of you have more experience than I, but I was able to go from covered in cyno, to none visible with just turning off the lights and leaving the LED moonlights on. Could have been a combination of other factors, including vodka dosing.
 
Could have been a combination of other factors, including vodka dosing.
if you're running a skimmer it could be the vodka dosing.

Cyano is a good indicator of nutrient levels. Cyano is "good" in the respect that it keeps nutrient levels lower by "consuming" nutrients. It's much more important to correct the root cause of cyanobacteria (high nutrient levels) than it is to get rid of cyano IMO/IME. This is one of the reasons why "light's out" isn't a good way to tackle cyanobacteria IMO/IME.

Go after the real problem and use cyano as an indicator species.
 
My goal was to tackle both the cause, and the symptom at the same time. Because the cyno outbreak had gotten so bad, it seemed as if no matter how much I tried to reduce nutrients it was too late because the cyno had such a foothold. I needed a way to impede the spread, while also reducing nutrients. It worked. N and P are undetectable on my kits (albeit crappy PO4 test) and cyno is nowhere to be found (although I realize it is still present in the tank, just not where I can see it.)
 
I agree with Gary lights out has a short term effect on visible cyanobacteria. It stresses it but it can rebound quickly if husbandy conditions don't change particulary PO4 reduction Light depravation stresses other photosynthetic organisms too perhaps more so.

There are many ways to reduce PO4, cleaning : siphoning, rinsing foods, cut backs in feeding, running a phosphate reducer and organic carbon dosing to name a few. Geting it to low levels will abate cyano.

Living things need 3 main nutrient sources; organic carbon, fixed nitrogen( such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) and phosphorous( inorganic or in some cases inorganic) .Cyanobacteria is extremley opportunistic in meeting these needs . It usually needs only , CO2, water and light to survive as it can fix it's own nitrogen from N2 gas which makes up about 70 of the air and makes it's own organic carbon from CO2 via photosynthesis.In the right conditions it can even take up organic carbon in lieu of producing it via photosynthesis but this seems rare. As far as I know it doesn't make phosphorous and needs to scavenge it.
Vodka if dosed properly with good export for organics in play does not cause cyano . I've been dosing for over two years and visible cyano is a very rare nearly non existent and small occurence. The dosing helps keep NO3 and PO4 low along with other methods I employ.
However, in some cases during the early weeks of ethanol dosing some patches of cyano appear in some systems. I suspect it is fed by bacterial by products including CO2 and perhaps some freeing of PO4 from surfaces . I think this may occur as the various bacterial strains get into equilibrium and a balanced cascade with the new carbon source. Using some vinegar in lieu of some of the vodka seems to get the bacterial balance quicker. IME, switching from exclusively vodka to a mix with vinegar eliminated the patchy cyano I was getting in on one frag tank's sand bed.

Think about it chloroplasts in zooxanthelae are closely related to cyanobacteria which may be more sensitive to light depravation than cyano. Other seen or unseen less hardy organisms in the tanks flora and fuana may also suffer more from light depravation than the cyano.
As for the tang hit with ich during lights out consider that crpytocaryon if it's in the tank usually leaves the fish at night with much of it attaching to surfaces near the fish's sleeping station. It also "hatches" from cysts at night mostly ; extending the dark gives it an advantage and may accelerate the life cycle. In these conditions it might be enough to spark an outbreak.

I would siphon vigorously and then set about knocking out PO4 and the cyano will fade away.
 
I would siphon vigorously and then set about knocking out PO4 and the cyano will fade away.
Great info! Thanks! Now I'm not sure what to do. There is anecdotal evidence that lights out works and some have stated that the corals will do fine (I can tell you my toadstool is not happy right now!), but I do worry about them, especially some new, small frags.

I have been siphoning, but maybe not often enough. I have no way to check PO4 and wouldn't it register 0 or close to it because the cyano is utilizing it? I do rinse food, but I must be feeding too much, I feed Rod's or mysis/frozen pygmy angel formula, as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes, one to two times a day.

What about increasing amount/frequency of water changes? Could I run a phosphate remover in my Magnum HOT that I currently use to run carbon?
 
Sometimes, the PO4 will look lower than it is on a test kit if a nuisance algae or bacteria is consuming it. Usually though if it's high it will show up. It may also leach from rocks or substrate previously exposed to high levels. Running some gfo in the canister filter in a bag would help although it's more effective when slightly fluidized as in a reactor. The gfo might exhaust quickly if there is a lot of phosphate in the tank and need several replacements every few days to be effective and that can be costly. Dosing small amounts of lanthanum chloride could help if you have a way to filter out the particulates. Whatever , cyano you cause to wane with lights out will simply leave the nutrients and toxins it holds in the water so you still have to remove them for longterm abatement. Siphoning it out at least exports it's nutient load with it.
 
I would siphon vigorously and then set about knocking out PO4 and the cyano will fade away.
x2

siphon the red slime itself out and return the water siphoned out along with the cyano back to the aquarium.

Switch from foods that fuel cyano growth to less polluting foods like Spectrum pellets ;)
 
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