Starting a 180, initial progress

[chrisguy]

Got an AGA 180 (not RR) from the scratch and dent section at Pet Mart in Batavia. The tank is new, still having all of it's stickers and original box packaging.

Here it is at home, still on my truck

A close-up of the reason it was so inexpensive. Yes this clam shell chip is tiny.

So far I've run two dedicated 20amp GFI circuits and reinforced the floor below the tank's future location.

I plan to build in a 16" wide x 5" deep x 6" tall overflow box with dual 1.5" drains. I will also add a 2" drain for a closed loop intake. The closed loop output will be an OM 4-way with plumbing over the top of the tank.

This is a SketchUp drawing of my plans for the tank.

Another angle, looking from the top down.

My next steps are to order the bulkheads, drill the tank and install the overflow box. From there I need to build the stand and plan the plumbing and electrical.

Any thoughts or advice??

I am still debating having the Sump under the stand or in the basement. My hesitation to a basement sump is that there is not an easy location to drill that can be easily fixed/repaired/hidden when we move in a couple years.

 

[jet_jer]

I love blank slates makes we want a bigger tank - good thing I don't ahave anyplace for a bigger one

jer

 

[johno4]

Why not have the overflow go the width of the tank? I have an 18x4x6 overflow on my 135 and I wish I went bigger. I like the Idea of the overflow on the side instead of the back. Are you setting this up as a pennisula?

 

[m-fine]

Wow, looks like you will need a bigger truck for your next tank upgrade

 

[chrisguy]

jet_jer - I couldn't agree more. I think one of the best parts of a reef tank is the build process (except for the expenses )

johno4 - The tank will be a peninsula, so the longest side for a wall to wall overflow would be 24 inches. Using a box design will give me 16” + 5” + 5” for a total of 26 inches. I could even go bigger if needed. The other benefit is that I will have 3.25 inches on each side of the box. This is where I plan on placing two of the four outputs for the OM 4-way. This will minimize how intrusive they are to viewing the tank. I’m even considering putting these two outputs in as bulkheads so I don’t have to go over the tank, but am concerned with how close they would be to the sides of the tank (structural integrity).

m-fine â€"œ Tell me about it. I’ve never driven so slow on the thruway. Was nervous with a 350lbs 72” tank sitting on a 54” truck bed. The tailgate helped, but if you look closely, the tank was hanging over the edge by an inch or two. Lots of tie downs were used.

 

[Henry Colf]

Chris, good luck with the build.Are you planning on patching the chip or just let it go?Are you going to build your own stand or just build one?Have you decided on what you are going to use for flow in the tank yet?

 

[chrisguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10103165#post10103165 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henry Colf
Chris, good luck with the build. Are you planning on patching the chip or just let it go? Are you going to build your own stand or just build one? Have you decided on what you are going to use for flow in the tank yet?

Great set of questions.

No plans to patch the chip, it's really tiny. The 180 is 3/4" glass so I don't have any worries (knock on wood).

I'm going to build a stand that will complement the room that the tank is going into. Not 100% sure of the design, but I have a couple ideas.

For flow I will use a closed loop (the 2" intake as shown in the pictures) to a sequence dart with an OM 4-way for the output. The head loss will be minimal. I had this on my 120 and it was crazy flow. Should be perfect on the 180.

 

[SkiFletch]

Also the chip is way at the top where very little comparative force is seen. Heck chris, I have 4 of these chips in my 45 that's 13 years old, no problems

Are you going to use a toothed overflow, or just a level piece of glass?

 

[chrisguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10107012#post10107012 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SkiFletch
Are you going to use a toothed overflow, or just a level piece of glass?

No teeth, just a glass box.

Tonight I cut the two holes for the 1.5" bulkheads. Next I will order the glass (cut to size) and install the box. From there I will drill and install the closed loop intake. After all of that, it will be on to the stand.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

nice sketches. Will there be water being pushed towards the overflow from the opposite side of the aquarium?

 

[bjromaine]

nice design so far. I will keep watching this and other posts regarding new tank setups. I hope to jump up to a larger tank soon. Probably a 120....
Haven't been here much lately....been very busy at work and traveling all week some weeks....

 

[chrisguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10107680#post10107680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gary Majchrzak
nice sketches. Will there be water being pushed towards the overflow from the opposite side of the aquarium?

There will be an output from the closed loop (om 4-way) in each corner, so that should keep the surface moving.

 

[ElDiabloPollo]

Why did you decide to go toothless on the overflow?

J

 

[chrisguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10108826#post10108826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ElDiabloPollo
Why did you decide to go toothless on the overflow?

J

Had it like that on my last tank and liked it. Plus it's easier to do toothless with glass.

 

[Jetsam]

ACK Oops letz try this again...

 

[Jetsam]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10103165#post10103165 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Henry Colf
Are you going to build your own stand or just build one?

Lol Hay Henry I think you have been working to many long hours on your Fish room =)

Sory Henry I just had to =)
LOL

Mint Drawings Chris... I Love the Play by play of a new tank set up


Jet

 

[RandyO]

Hey Chris.

Looking good.

If you plan on having returns in both side panels of glass, I would suggest the holes on the side with the overflow box be lower than the holes on the far end without the box. That way the flow at the surface will be directed at the overflow box for collection of surface film while the other two returns are a little lower and will flow under the top jets.
This will give a nice circular water motion in the middle of the tank and keep the surface film from collecting at the far end of the tank.

That's the way the tank at Aqua Tech was designed. Works pretty good.

 

[chrisguy]

Randy, Thanks for the feedback!!

To be honest I have taken several of my design considerations from the Aqua Tech tank, just on a smaller scale.

The tank will be a peninsula, so at this time, my plan is that the the returns will only be on the overflow side. I will have the outputs from the OM 4-way high on the far side of the tank and low on the overflow side, hoping for that circular water motion. If need be, I can extend the return lines.

 

[KurtsReef]

Looks good (And big in the back of that truck)

 

[chrisguy]

Made a little progress tonight and finally made a big decision.

First the progress:

Drilled the following holes:
~ Two holes for the 1.5" bulkheads for the dual overflows.
~ Two holes for the 1.5" near side Closed Loop Return
~ One 2" hole for the Closed Loop intake
The blue tape outlines the overflow box.

Different angle

Big Decision
Talked to the wife and we decided that a Basement Sump would be the best option. First I need to move a shelving unit, and then find a new home for some basement "stuff". After that I will build a mock wall with a heavy duty shelf to hold a refugium tank (30 gal breeder) and the Sump.