Starting it out,long read,looking for help

afamousjohnson

Just Keep Swimming
New to RC, returning to the hobby after a handful of years off. Never did much research the first round though, just went with the flow of things(no wonder things didnt work out and I didnt know why. second tank in my history. Picked it up in oct. from a nice CL'ster who was a 14yr hobbyist getting out for 180$. Came with tank35g, T5 HO Flo24*2 lighting, stand and cover, 4large LR(20-30lbs), a 1-1 1/2in layer of live sand, various softies(mushrooms, kenya trees, of course a large majano anemone,green sinularia, sm xenia, polyp, snails, hermits,brittles,bristles,etc), developed water, 2 in tank powerheads 301 and 660 placed in both back corners, gravity fed overflow, into(?20gallon??) wet dry sump with 2chambers and no baffle(pics at bottom)-1st chamber cotton fiber filled top box draining into fiber floss? 2nd chamber, heater(not sure type watts)but holds a 78 degree temp, maxi jet 1200 powerhead used on an instant ocean brand protien skimmer??, a submersed ViaAqua 2600 pump for return line into tank, and various tools, tubing, nic nacs, food, carbon packs, chemi's(prime and stress gaurd), master water testing kit that has beeeen used and wet but works. Everything seeming prestine for the start and feeling as a good buy.
Water parameters all normal from what I could tell with tests and info I recieved from researching all you wonderful peeps. Had a Nitrate explosion(from the floss factory I found out and some ignorance on my part due to learning and trying to understand this new system delayed cleaning and water changes-never again) Bring on the brown spots, algee, and domino problems. What Ive done since then- In sump-kept the cotton fiber filled box idea(anyone know if good or a better option for this top box insert to filter?) but added a chemi pure bag under the cotton directly below where water first enters the filter system,under the chemi bag added a carbon pad? given to me at the LFS(black pad) and that makes up my removable top filter box. Removed all fiber floss :0 and replaced with 25-30lbs broken up ruble LR 1/2 exposed to drip 1/2 submerged-all rock wet. It sits on egg crate about 2in above bottom of chamber but I put a layer of small LR pieces covering the bottom as well. Should I have left this open? Is there something I can do better with this space? I have a chocolate chip(harlequin food) in the sump that seems to love the lil pieces of LR to work with. That makes up the 1st chamber and changes. In the 2nd chamber I plan on rearranging a bit tonight because as sits right now-water comes in from tank through cotton, bag, pad, and rocks than under divider of 1st chamber to reach my return line pump and heater 1st in the 2nd chamber on the other side of this is my skimmer and maxi jet up against far left wall(see pic) My thoughts for rearranging is that it should first reach my maxijet and skimmer/heater and have the return line and pump on the far left wall at the end of the sump cycle. Am I right in thinking this? any suggestions or ideas, and not sure what can be done as far as baffle goes. I have been told it helps with micro bubble problems(which I am having)but that can also be linked to my algea problem also(it produces these bubbles it looks like or rather just hosts them??)right?? I also added a bag filled with tetra carbon pellets in the water under the over flow from my skimmer. Am I running to much carbon? I also add not on a regular basis "fish keeper" to control disease,help stress,etc. Is this a good idea? Made all my changes over the last couple of weeks. And that makes up the sump. In the upper tank I have obviously added live stock, more softies, a piece of red montipora, and about 15-20lbs more LR all types? I have done multiple water changes and now on a regular basis to bring down my nitrates and it seems to be working slowly. My parameters as of right now are as follows-
PH high range- 8.3-8.5 (not so good at matching charts)whats the difference in high range and low range(out of low range test-is this a problem?)
phosphate-not sure didnt match chart? suggestions on that.guessing they,re in there though due to other problems.
Amonia-0
Nitrite-0 or under .1
Nitrate-5-10ppm on the upper end
salinity-1.024 took out some water last night and added RO to bring it down from 1.027
Temp.-78
Not sure how to gather a lot of technicals like water flow or pumping per hr or any of the specifics like I've been seeing in peeps posts. Would love to know all that jazz though.
I've always been a big feeder so been kicking that habit. I now keep a mixture in the fridge of frozen food mix of mysis and herbal flakes in a small jar dispensed with a small baster style dropper thawed with salt water(should I use ro water for this, and is this a good idea?) Helps me feed less than throwing in a cube. Everyone seems extremely hungry when I feed but I guess thats sumwhat of a good thing? I started putting a day in between feeding but didnt like that so went to the small dropper dose method. I cut up a leg at a time and get smaller pieces of the star(that I freeze and thaw before feeding)to the harleqiun(her mate passed away a few weeks ago)a piece at a time a couple times a week. I also have the red frozen ?mini shrimp? food(not sure what its called) that I feed everyonce in a while. Everyone loves that stuff but expensive. I've tried feeding my anemone pieces of silver side which it has taken but I dont think it likes(has thrown them up? a couple times,looks like its encased in a white bubble of film like substance hanging off the side of the anemone) That is my feeding. Looking for feedback and or suggestions. Thanks
I run my lights on a timer and they come on at 9am and go off at 1am. Is there something I should change about this. Still running the T5 HO Flo24*2 lighting. Not sure of any other specs on lighting I have. I did just recently wash off all the salt residue on my bulbs and reflection plate with a rag though. Believe it brightened.
Problems im having or that have occured:
Fluxuating levels:rise in nitrates and im guessing phosphates. algea bloom and diatom?? spots in sand, micro bubbles. Not cloudy but deffinitly not crystal clear water.
Bright greenish yellow polyps loosing there color and in general not looking as happy as when added last month. They reside on the bottom of tank in light. Moved higher up this morning and already looking happier. Had a hammer coral about an inch or to away and below before moving and wondering if this may have been any cause of the unhappiness? I did some rearranging lately tho and I can tell it completly changed my flo of currents and created a lot more very low flow areas. My hammers seem to change happiness on a day to day basis. All other corals seem to be happy except sometimes my largest Kenya will fold over forward and look a lil unhappy(doesnt seem to be a current pushing it over?) But there was an instance the other morning where my montipora got knocked over and down onto my sinularia. When I noticed in the morning and moved it there was a filmy looking substance all around the sinularia. Im guessing that is the chemical warfare? Corals have looked a bit addgitated since than but getting better. A large mushroom next to the sinularia looks to have lil burn spots on it(im guessing a result of the warfare aswell?) I tried to pull most of the film out but noticed a piece stuck in the kenya that folds and could tell it made it very unhappy. Still looks like there is pieces of it around in the tank(spiderweb filmy lookin stuff) Is this something that will calm itself down/filter itself out?or is there something I need to do to help? As of now the montipora sits on a ledge about 3in above the sinularia. Since they where introduced face to face is having them this close causing a problem still?
My yellow tang(who was a surprise fish) had what looked like popeye start yesterday. I researched and added epsom salt(1tbp per 5gal) seems to be working. Hes looking much better now.
Lost a manderin(had enough food running around he just seemed to not move or defend himself after a few weeks of being introduced, like held been stung,stunded or something. Was fully active before that) A male harlequin about a week ago but thats about it so far.
My 2clowns are fighting. Both different size. do the submissive dance but not much anymore. Not a huge problem but annoying at times, tank raised and non anemone hosting. The lil one stays at the top often hiding behind equiptment.
That is all that comes to mind at the moment..still l;oving everything!
I also believe my tank may be overstocked. Hoping to move to a 60gal by the end of the year as I've been told my equiptment would sustain that system size. Is this true in your opinion? How do you come up with bio-load levels and match to equiptment being used? Do you think mine matchs up well?
Inhabitants:all very small in size)
2non true percs, 1firefish, 1scooterblenny, 1 hyphon gobie, and 1small yellow tang that I came home to after days of belly aching about my algea problem( I love my fiance;) Ive researched and know of the tang problems in a 35gal
2cleaner shrimp, 1harlequin(want to add a male), 2sexy shrimp(want more of these guys and I heard they do well in larger odd #groups 3-5), sea cucumber, male and female boxer crabs, hermits-1scarlet,1halloween,1blue leg,2larger white regular and 3small dark, various snails of different types,brittles,bristles, 1feather duster, 1 coco worm, tube worm rock. Corals:Kenya trees, 3types of polyps, 5or6 types of mushroom, anemone(false rose?) and a few nusiance lil ones(bubble tips n majora?),2types xenia, sponges of all sorts,hammer and its frags,sinularia,montipora,unknown leather,and a couple other unknowns.
Sorry for the novel but everyone enjoys a good read, and I'll say in advance how greatful I am for any insites,critiques,advice,ideas,and anything else along those lines. You guys have been great and extremelly helpful with all the roadblocks and inquiries I've had. Til then reefaholics-keep following those steps!
P.S. atached photos for reference:
1 and 2 sump under area skimmer etc after changes
3 fireworm(1of two types in my tank-hes like 5inchs) 2unkown species of filter feeding ?crab/shrimp? living in the side by side holes and unkown leather
4 common area and majority of coral placement
5 hammer and polyps placement-unhappy polyps losing color
 

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Bear with me, I did my best to break this up and try and read it. It's kind of a cluster. Out of this, I'm going to ask for clarification on the following:

When you picked up the tank and moved everything, how did you go about doing so? You may have initiated a brand new cycle by irritating the sand bed. Hence why you'll see fluxuating levels of Nitrate.

9am-1am is a pretty long time for lights - what period of this are white light? what period of this are moonlights? Is this whole cycle white light or actinitics? If so, that's too much. You can keep moonlights on all night.

Can you offer a picture of the anenome trying to feed next time it does the bubble behavior (that would better show us)

A yellow tang is a bad choice for a 35g. As you can see from the Tang Size sticky thread, the recommended size for this species is a 100g tank (or something in the 4-5 foot wide range area).

The cotton floss in your sump looks like it'd be a nitrate factory if you weren't changing it out and washing it very regularly (almost daily, to be honest - though my lack of experience with this particular form of setup you have may mean I am incorrect).

Have you tested the TDS from your RO/DI? Is it still zero? Sometimes inheriting an older or used RO/DI means that the filters are not new, and you may be getting TDS in your water. That could contribute to the Phosphate.

I haven't had one, but as far as I know the sea cucumber is not reef safe and may feed on coral. I could be incorrect on that. As long as the sand bed is plentiful for nutrients, it shouldn't be an issue. When they die they do release some form of toxin which could be bad for your tank. Some reefers keep cucumbers without issue, so I can't be fully accountable for my information on this.

Also, were you able to adjust your 'low flow' areas? That could be an issue down the road.

Can you give us the readings on your test kits for:
Salinity
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
PH
Temperature
 
Bear with me, I did my best to break this up and try and read it. It's kind of a cluster. Out of this, I'm going to ask for clarification on the following:

When you picked up the tank and moved everything, how did you go about doing so? You may have initiated a brand new cycle by irritating the sand bed. Hence why you'll see fluxuating levels of Nitrate.

9am-1am is a pretty long time for lights - what period of this are white light? what period of this are moonlights? Is this whole cycle white light or actinitics? If so, that's too much. You can keep moonlights on all night.

Can you offer a picture of the anenome trying to feed next time it does the bubble behavior (that would better show us)

A yellow tang is a bad choice for a 35g. As you can see from the Tang Size sticky thread, the recommended size for this species is a 100g tank (or something in the 4-5 foot wide range area).

The cotton floss in your sump looks like it'd be a nitrate factory if you weren't changing it out and washing it very regularly (almost daily, to be honest - though my lack of experience with this particular form of setup you have may mean I am incorrect).

Have you tested the TDS from your RO/DI? Is it still zero? Sometimes inheriting an older or used RO/DI means that the filters are not new, and you may be getting TDS in your water. That could contribute to the Phosphate.

I haven't had one, but as far as I know the sea cucumber is not reef safe and may feed on coral. I could be incorrect on that. As long as the sand bed is plentiful for nutrients, it shouldn't be an issue. When they die they do release some form of toxin which could be bad for your tank. Some reefers keep cucumbers without issue, so I can't be fully accountable for my information on this.

Also, were you able to adjust your 'low flow' areas? That could be an issue down the road.

Can you give us the readings on your test kits for:
Salinity
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
PH
Temperature
 
The new cycle makes sense. Cyphoned water to buckets laid rock down and left a water coverage in the tank on the drive. Major movement I would imagine.
Ya my fiance grabbed the tang to be nice. Looks like the upgrade will be bigger than the origanal 60. I like that shes on board with the whole idea though..makes it a lil easier.
Any ideas on a subsitute for the cotton fill. I dont like it and agree it looks like a trap.
I grab my RO water from my LFS but from what im checking out on here I may just want to do that process at home.
Not a fan of the sea cucumber. He hasn't disrupted anything except the sand though. Never see him messing with anything else in the tank. Lil bugger moves all my sand from the front of the tank leaving ruble and a thin layer and lets it all out the other end in the back of the tank. Not a fan of that because I want to move it back forward but dont want to disrupt it any further.
My light must just run florescent cycle? It doesnt run through fazes. I do have a white bulb and the blue bulb in it that came with the tank. Not sure how long he had them and maybe should replace? Any suggestions on the lighting i.e. bulbs, shorter cycle..

My test kit seems to of lost testing directions on Alk.,Cal., and Mag. over its time but I have these..
Ph around 8.3
Amonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10 and lowering
salinity 1.024
temp 77
My phosphate isnt coming up right. on the print out in the kit I am shaking up and dropping 3 drops each of 3 solutions waiting 2 min and matching a chart based from 0 to 5.0 with the color spectrum from white(0) to darker purple(5.0) and my test is coming out to a greener color close to that of a .1 of amonia in its test?????
 
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