Starting Over Build Thread - Construction Intensive!
- Thread starter thomb
- Start date
Here we go... lets hope this works out. One pro tip be sure to use cold water. Had a disaster with this stuff a few years back where it got mixed using garden hose water that was hot. Spent 8 hrs afterwards sanding it level - NO FUN.
The hanger bolts should hold the frame in place in case it gets jostled during construction or something. Although we did have a small earthquake a few years back (I live in New Hampshire).
There is 1/2" pipe as well through the subfloor - that's going to be an emergency drain for the stand. After seeing that mold under the bamboo, I am taking no chances.
The pipe in the wall is an actual drain, that will be used for water changes. You can also see the access door for the side, it slides vertically. My hopes were to be able to access the skimmer through there so I don't need to carry the collection cup through the house. But the sump has the skimmer on the far right not the far left so it may not work out as I though. But one thing I learned from that Elos stand is that access to things is like money or good health - you can't have too much. The Elos stand was HORRIBLE from that perspective.
The hanger bolts should hold the frame in place in case it gets jostled during construction or something. Although we did have a small earthquake a few years back (I live in New Hampshire).
There is 1/2" pipe as well through the subfloor - that's going to be an emergency drain for the stand. After seeing that mold under the bamboo, I am taking no chances.
The pipe in the wall is an actual drain, that will be used for water changes. You can also see the access door for the side, it slides vertically. My hopes were to be able to access the skimmer through there so I don't need to carry the collection cup through the house. But the sump has the skimmer on the far right not the far left so it may not work out as I though. But one thing I learned from that Elos stand is that access to things is like money or good health - you can't have too much. The Elos stand was HORRIBLE from that perspective.
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I'll be putting white laminate inside it. I've got days more work to do! This is really just the basic structure at this point.
I'll likely add an inner wall in the stand to cover the corner supports to make the laminate install easier.
But I want to make sure that won't interfere with the sump in any way.
The stand is 3/4" poplar plywood, glued and screwed together. Has 1.5" square corner boards (poplar). There's also two 1.5" 26" in the middle - each 26" from the edges.
Stand is 64 x 24 x 36. I am going to put another layer of 3/4" ply on the top mostly so I can extend it out to the wall on the back and side. Its hard to tell but the back wall to the left ranges from 9 3/4" to 10 1/4" away from the back of the stand. I hope to get the sump this week so I can start really laying out the inside of the stand.
Then there's the skinning of the stand as well. I may use Azek.
And there's my cord management, electrical section for all the controllers. Placement of reactors... etc. etc. etc.
I admire and envy folks who can plan/draw things out beforehand, alas I simply can't.
I have a vision of what I want to achieve and I build to it - but planning never has been my strong suit.
I'll likely add an inner wall in the stand to cover the corner supports to make the laminate install easier.
But I want to make sure that won't interfere with the sump in any way.
The stand is 3/4" poplar plywood, glued and screwed together. Has 1.5" square corner boards (poplar). There's also two 1.5" 26" in the middle - each 26" from the edges.
Stand is 64 x 24 x 36. I am going to put another layer of 3/4" ply on the top mostly so I can extend it out to the wall on the back and side. Its hard to tell but the back wall to the left ranges from 9 3/4" to 10 1/4" away from the back of the stand. I hope to get the sump this week so I can start really laying out the inside of the stand.
Then there's the skinning of the stand as well. I may use Azek.
And there's my cord management, electrical section for all the controllers. Placement of reactors... etc. etc. etc.
I admire and envy folks who can plan/draw things out beforehand, alas I simply can't.
I have a vision of what I want to achieve and I build to it - but planning never has been my strong suit.
Researching now what exactly to do about it.
While shims would be the normal approach, as you can see here, I cut the existing flooring and the base of the stand is slightly below the flooring - making shims a lift, place, measure rinse and repeat affair.
Fail to plan, plan on spending a heck of a lot of time doing things the hard way
- Another layer of self leveling cement - not seeing anything on the bag about doing that though
- Applying leveling cement to the top... dicy messy prospect perhaps
- shimming the stand... not easy at all to get shims in place
While shims would be the normal approach, as you can see here, I cut the existing flooring and the base of the stand is slightly below the flooring - making shims a lift, place, measure rinse and repeat affair.
Fail to plan, plan on spending a heck of a lot of time doing things the hard way
dave.m
Active member
If you want to REALLY make a mess try taking an orbital sander to the concrete and try to bring it down just that wee little bit because that shouldn't be a problem at all... should it?
I would try for a thinned out layer of the self-levelling $#!& compound and see if that fixes it.
Dave.M
I would try for a thinned out layer of the self-levelling $#!& compound and see if that fixes it.
Dave.M
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LOL I've done that sanding trick before when I redid my mom's bathroom - talk about a dusty mess! Man o man that stuff is nasty.
I am leaning towards a second layer. Just annoys me, followed directions to the letter, it poured and set beautifully - the floor is almost silky smooth and its dead nuts flat.
I thought for sure I was golden.
Hopefully that nice smooth floor will allow for a nice smooth second coat.
I am leaning towards a second layer. Just annoys me, followed directions to the letter, it poured and set beautifully - the floor is almost silky smooth and its dead nuts flat.
I thought for sure I was golden.
Hopefully that nice smooth floor will allow for a nice smooth second coat.
leviburns89
New member
Umm, just sand or use a rasp to file down the stand itself. You are looking at 1/32 of an inch to level, these are specs that commercial million dollar houses can't meet.
At this point you would be over working yourself. Know the structural capacity of your lumber. Even 16d nails have a 5000lb shearing cap, and you always use 2 at every joint (with 2x4s) meaning even a 2x4 stand, built properly has a 10,000lb threshold...
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At this point you would be over working yourself. Know the structural capacity of your lumber. Even 16d nails have a 5000lb shearing cap, and you always use 2 at every joint (with 2x4s) meaning even a 2x4 stand, built properly has a 10,000lb threshold...
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leviburns89
New member
And the human eye can only detect a change of 1/8th of an inch plumb. So if you take the stand down a bit, you would never know.
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cshplumber
New member
I'm a little concerned about the water heater. Will it be drawing in this high humidity, salty air?
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I was concerned about that too but I think I'm ok.
The water heater is set up with concentric venting. It draws its intake air from the outside, not from the room itself.
https://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater/venting-accessories
The sliding access door between the room where the water heater is and the stand is pretty snug - certainly not hermetically sealed, but its tighter fit than a standard stand door would be. That's the only real "connection" between the two spaces.
I can also run a 4" vent line + exhaust fan to draw air from the stand and send it outside. when I stacked the washer/dryer I needed to add a new vent, so I have the old vent available. The exhaust fan, I'd consider consumable and would make it easily replaceable; they aren't terribly expensive. Would likely run it on a humidity sensor.
The water heater is set up with concentric venting. It draws its intake air from the outside, not from the room itself.
https://www.rinnai.us/tankless-water-heater/venting-accessories
The sliding access door between the room where the water heater is and the stand is pretty snug - certainly not hermetically sealed, but its tighter fit than a standard stand door would be. That's the only real "connection" between the two spaces.
I can also run a 4" vent line + exhaust fan to draw air from the stand and send it outside. when I stacked the washer/dryer I needed to add a new vent, so I have the old vent available. The exhaust fan, I'd consider consumable and would make it easily replaceable; they aren't terribly expensive. Would likely run it on a humidity sensor.
Thanks for the sanity check on the stand! I am going with your plan and will sand down the high end, glue some laminate to the top and call it a day.
You're absolutely right, it really isn't off by much - I stacked a few credit cards under the low end and it was spot on. (cheap fix har har har)
The LFS / consultant I ordered the tank through recommended putting 1/2" foam under the tank as well which what I've read should take up any residual tiny variations.
I started doing some machining as a hobby a few months back, so I've been (trying) to measure tolerances pretty closely. Alas, my talents are not up to my desire for tolerances. But I have to remember this is wood I'm dealing with!
You're absolutely right, it really isn't off by much - I stacked a few credit cards under the low end and it was spot on. (cheap fix har har har)
The LFS / consultant I ordered the tank through recommended putting 1/2" foam under the tank as well which what I've read should take up any residual tiny variations.
I started doing some machining as a hobby a few months back, so I've been (trying) to measure tolerances pretty closely. Alas, my talents are not up to my desire for tolerances. But I have to remember this is wood I'm dealing with!
Happy to report after sanding was able to move the bubble to the upright, locked and level position.
Now I can get going on the interior of the stand ... laminate, lighting, and partition between sump and electrical. Stoked on the room and amount of light I'm going to have - I just don't do well keeping dark spaces clean and organized.
Now I can get going on the interior of the stand ... laminate, lighting, and partition between sump and electrical. Stoked on the room and amount of light I'm going to have - I just don't do well keeping dark spaces clean and organized.
Starting the laminating process for the interior of the stand. I didn't buy enough adhesive to do all the panels - this is just the top and bottom. I have the sides, the door and many other panels to make for the cable management, control panel area
The plywood soaks it in (as was anticipated by the instructions). Perhaps one reason why particle board is the more recommended substrate but to me particleboard and potentially wet DO NOT MIX. Although in theory this will be sealed, I will silicone between panels during install etc.
The laminate itself is was pretty easy to cut with a tablesaw and circular saw. I'll clean the edges with a router.
The plywood soaks it in (as was anticipated by the instructions). Perhaps one reason why particle board is the more recommended substrate but to me particleboard and potentially wet DO NOT MIX. Although in theory this will be sealed, I will silicone between panels during install etc.
The laminate itself is was pretty easy to cut with a tablesaw and circular saw. I'll clean the edges with a router.
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