Stockman Standpipe--New, Easier Design

The plug slides into the 1" reduction fitting. If you use a cap, then you will have to use a piece of 1" PVC to connect the cap to the reduction fitting. Either way will work fine.
 
If I screw mine up can i come to you and you fix it LOL.
I am about to try to make my stockman pipe this weekend. Can you tell me what the gph flow rate is? Can it be increased if needed? If it can be increased how would I? I have an Americle overflow (HOB) that i plan on putting the stockman pipe on. Thanks for answering the questions.

Rich
 
And this is supposed to be easier than a standard Stockman?

Stockman = pipe and t-intersection and 90 degree bend and cap. Takes about 5 minutes to make and less than $5 in materials. I don't quite get this "improvement" - if only because it requires a lot of labor.

BTW - I am NOT knocking you; I like when people try to improve stuff. I just don't see how this is easier :) Work on a Stockman Protein Skimmer :)
 
I had Ken make a couple for me. I'll try and post some pics when they are put on my new 150g. By the way Ken, I sent payment late last week via US priority mail so you should've received it by now, or very soon.
Thanks.
Brian
 
BonsaiNut, you are confusing the "Durso" with the "Stockman" standpipe. I think both work well, but Ken's design has a smaller profile, so it fits better in overflow boxes, particularly HOB overflows. I use two small durso's in my overflow, and they cram up all the space. I need to put a larger siphon U-tube in, so I may switch to the "stockman" because it gives greater clearance in the HOB box.

Durso = pipe, T, 90 elbow, cap.
Stockman = pipe, reduction fittings, plug (as above)

both are simple an delegant solutions to silencing overflows and I believe the principal is to keep the output pipe (or intake, depending on point of view) under water, and allowing only enough air in to prevent sucking or siphoning effects from the pipe.

V
 
BonsaiNut

Stockman pipe does not equal Durso pipe.

Since I am the person that designed the Stockman standpipe, I can say whether or not it is an improvement. It may or not may not be easier to make. It depend on if you can use a miter saw or not. This method eliminates the need to cut a hole in the side of the standpipe or having to slide the pipe through the reduction fitting. This method allows you to have an easily removable fitting for cleaning purposes.

I have been working on other projects. For example, I have a nice top off system that people seem to like and I have made my own modification to the Reef Rat.

BTW--Knock all you want nobody is home.
 
Arg! The longer I wait to finish assembling all the parts of my new tank, the more cool ideas I find to consider. I was going to use two Durso standpipes in a center positioned overflow, but I haven't like the amount of space the overflow will take. This looks like a possible answer to that problem.

Do the Durso and Stockman standpipes perform similarly in capacity and noise level?

Durso recommends using a larger standpipe than the bulkhead size. Is that necessary for the Stockman standpipe?

Ken: Thanks for the improved design and an informative web site.

Jeff
 
I just got my new Stockman pipes today. These things are built perfectly to fit in my two overflows. I'll try and snap some pics this weekend.
Thanks for your help Ken!! The updated website is cool.
 
Functionally there is no difference between my design and Durso's design. I found the Durso pipe and determined that it could not fit in most HOB overflows and in some internal overflows. My design is just a simple solution to the space problem. I do beleive that there is at least one benefit to my design.

If you notice on my design I have a pipe in pipe design. The space for the water to flow into the pipe has more surface area than the durso. More importantly the water enters through a gap that is about 1/2" wide and the opening to the inner drain pipe is 1". What does this mean? Any small object, such as a snail, that can fit into the water intake, will definitely fit down the drain and therefore it would be hard to clog the pipe.

I believe with the Durso that some people use a screen of some sort to by pass this issue. This is the other issue with having a pipe larger than the drain. If you don't have a screen and something does get sucked into the pipe, then it will hit a restriction point and get stuck.
 
So Ken, I thought the reason for the Durso pipe having a larger pipe and smaller drain opening was to sort of keep the pipe full. I am going to redo my pathetic overflow. Assuming I use a one inch standpipe, I can use a one inch drain hose as well?

Thanks for posting pics and stuff! Both standpipe designs are a boon to the hobby!

V
 
kstockman said:
BTW--Knock all you want nobody is home.

LOL :D

Looks like this solves a couple of previous issues for a few minutes more dremel time. Nice. Thanks for the update.
 
Vincerama2--

I have never had the need to change the diameter of the standpipe relative to the bulkhead, but then again I have always had a sump in a different room or level of the house. In doing so I have lots of elbows to create back pressure in the line.

I would try the same diameter to start with and modifiy it if you have to.
 
Loud, Loud, Loud

Loud, Loud, Loud

Well, I finished making the new Stockman standpipe to replace the All-Glass overflow kit, the type with the floats. All my parts look just like Ken's pictures. I've got it pretty high so the water just falls into the overflow.

No matter how far I insert the plug, even without it, the water level rises and falls with a LOUD gurgling sound. On the Durso standpipe I have on my Oceanic 58G, I drilled the air hole bigger to solve this problem. This gurgles with or without the plug.

Equipment is an All-Glass RR 125G tank, dual overflow, dual return powered by an Iwaki MD30RLXT. The overflow drain pipe is one inch. The All-glass kit although noisey was much quieter than this.

Any suggestions?

Bob
 
If the water keeps rising and falling, then the issue is typically that not enough air is getting into the standpipe. Try several small holes--like 1/8".

Does the water exit into the sump below the water level? I would have the water from the return exit the return pipe below the surface of the water in the sump. This will create some back pressure and my help things.
 
I actually cut four slots in the plug. The height of the plug doesn't matter, I still get noise even without the plug so it's getting plenty of air. I wonder if it has to do with backpressure. My overflow hose attaches to the top of the wet dry. I cannot submerge it without getting a longer hose, something no local LFS has in stock. Since there are two overflows, my sump is pretty well centered so both hoses will reach.

It seems the largest difference between this and the Durso I used before, is that the Durso uses a 1.25 inch pipe going into the 1.0 inch bulkhead.

Ken, if this design is noisey, is there any chanch your old design would be any quieter for me?

Bob
 
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