Stockman Standpipe--New, Easier Design
- Thread starter kstockman
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Vincerama2
Active member
You must be getting some kind of vapour lock going on. Maybe when you start your pump, if you could somehow lift the sump outlet above the water, you might be able to avoif this...?
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Brian Koyama
New member
My Stockman pipes work flawlessly so farÃ"šÃ‚© I've done numerous tests where I shut down the tank power to see how much water flows back into the sump from my tank and it is very minimalÃ"šÃ‚© No over flows so farÃ"šÃ‚© And I still can't believe how quiet they areÃ"šÃ‚© My SQWD is louder than my Stockman'sÃ"šÃ‚© I can put my ear up to the over flow and I still can't hear any water flowing down to my sumpÃ"šÃ‚© This is one of the best pieces of equipment on my tank!
Thanks again for your help with this KenÃ"šÃ‚©
Brian
Thanks again for your help with this KenÃ"šÃ‚©
Brian
Hi to all....I have a quick question....Does it make a diffrence if the coupling is reduced in size? Lets say reduce the coupling end where the cap goes? I am limited in space in my overflow because I have pvc pipe going from one side of the overflow to the other for my spray bars (I hope this makes sense). So I was thinking this would work....Any feed back will help...
Thanks,
Jonath
Thanks,
Jonath
Vincerama2
Active member
It probably won't matter. Is the reduced part underwater, or "in the air" If it is not submerged, then size probably doesn't matter....and there is only one way to find out...! (Luckily, it's only about 2 bucks worth of plastic if it doesn't work ou!)
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V
I found a 2"-1" reducer but it is the opposite of yours, the flutes are on top so when I cut the top of the reducer off the top has holes between the fluting. I was wondering where you got yours from? I looked at Home Depot and could not find them and also checked out Menards and not luck therer. I got the ones I have from a plumbing supply place.
Thanks
Thanks
srfndoc
New member
Can you use a stockman on an exposed overflow (ie, no wall). My tank is drilled with a single 1" bulkehead with a male adapter and a 1.5" pipe going up to the desired water level. Then I have a 'grate' piece that fits on the top. It works great but is very noisy (wife issues!) could I take the grate piece off and replace it with a stockman?
Thanks
Thanks
Vincerama2
Active member
I use it in my DIY wall-less overflow. The pipe itself serves the purpose of the wall. (ie; it sets the water height)
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AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
How tall should the standpipe be? My tank is 23" H and the top of the overflow is 22" H. I see on the durso website they say have the water level in the overflow about 2" below the main tank. Is this also true with a Stockman?
pbs911
New member
Thanks for the Stockman standpipe. I used the original design and works great. Since the tank is in the den where we spend most of our time it is a godsend.
I actually made two. I have a 1" bulkhead opening and my first used 1" thinwall. The second was with 1.25" piping. All other components were the same except the 1.25" to 1" reducer and 1.25" cap for the second. I had a little bit of trouble getting enough flow for my Mag12 return with the 1". The 1.25 inch pipe allowed me to open the side intels more since the difference between the 2" coupling and 1.25" diameter pipe would prevent things that may clog the bulkhead opening from entry. I get excellent flow with the 1.25" pipe. A little better than the 1". So maybe the principle of the Durso "I don't know why it [.25" difference] works" also applies?
I actually made two. I have a 1" bulkhead opening and my first used 1" thinwall. The second was with 1.25" piping. All other components were the same except the 1.25" to 1" reducer and 1.25" cap for the second. I had a little bit of trouble getting enough flow for my Mag12 return with the 1". The 1.25 inch pipe allowed me to open the side intels more since the difference between the 2" coupling and 1.25" diameter pipe would prevent things that may clog the bulkhead opening from entry. I get excellent flow with the 1.25" pipe. A little better than the 1". So maybe the principle of the Durso "I don't know why it [.25" difference] works" also applies?
kstockman
New member
tbooher--
Where is the bulkhead in the tank--on the bottom or on the side of the tank?
Either way this idea will work, but it might be easier if the bulkhead is on the bottom.
Make my design then buy a 4" PVC endcap and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the end cap the diameter of the pipe. THe pipe that leads to the drain that is. Slide the endcap over the inner standpipe so that it is facing up--like a cup--to the point where the bottom of the cup come up to about 1/2" from the bottom edge of the coupling fitting. You might have to use a dremel tool to get the endcap to fit over the pipe--you want a snuggle fit. I would consider gluing the seal between the endcap and the pipe.
The endcap will act as an internal overflow box, so you will get the desired surface skimming.
Put the pipe back in place so that the top edge of the endcap is where you want the water level.
Does this make any sense? I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don't have one handy. I use this approach for my refugium. I have water drain in from the main tank to the refugium, then water exits through this type of overflow/standpipe to the sump. It has worked well for over two years now.
If you do a search on my posts, then you will find a picture because I have posted it.
Where is the bulkhead in the tank--on the bottom or on the side of the tank?
Either way this idea will work, but it might be easier if the bulkhead is on the bottom.
Make my design then buy a 4" PVC endcap and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the end cap the diameter of the pipe. THe pipe that leads to the drain that is. Slide the endcap over the inner standpipe so that it is facing up--like a cup--to the point where the bottom of the cup come up to about 1/2" from the bottom edge of the coupling fitting. You might have to use a dremel tool to get the endcap to fit over the pipe--you want a snuggle fit. I would consider gluing the seal between the endcap and the pipe.
The endcap will act as an internal overflow box, so you will get the desired surface skimming.
Put the pipe back in place so that the top edge of the endcap is where you want the water level.
Does this make any sense? I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don't have one handy. I use this approach for my refugium. I have water drain in from the main tank to the refugium, then water exits through this type of overflow/standpipe to the sump. It has worked well for over two years now.
If you do a search on my posts, then you will find a picture because I have posted it.
Vincerama2
Active member
the difference between 1 inch and 1.25 inch diameter pipes is that 1.25" pipes have 36% larger intake area. And that's a lot!
area of a circle = 3.14 * (d^2)/4
where d is diameter
(or "pi r squared")
(unless my math is wrong, which is likely)
V
area of a circle = 3.14 * (d^2)/4
where d is diameter
(or "pi r squared")
(unless my math is wrong, which is likely)
V
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
How tall should the standpipe be? My tank is 23" H and the top of the overflow is 22" H. I see on the durso website they say have the water level in the overflow about 2" below the main tank. Is this also true with a Stockman?
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