Stony corals and kalk, kalk additive v kalk reactor/stirrer...should you?

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
Kalk is calcium supplement. It's kind of magical. If you drop it into ro/di as a powder, and swish it just once, only 2 teaspoons of it per gallon WILL dissolve. You can't overdose, in ro/di. If there's any left, it'll sink to the bottom of the container and dissolve ONLY when more ro/di comes into the container.

Now if you have an ATO, you set this as your topoff reservoir and it delivers kalk to your tank at a rate very nice for stony corals and clams. [There is a way to hype it a tad with vinegar, but that's another story.]

If you have a 75 gallon tank or smaller, completely packed with stony corals, this is probably all you can use. If larger than 75 AND PACKED, you may need a calcium reactor, which is a whole 'nuther story, too. Calcium reactors, for big reefs, are sometimes helped out by a kalk feed or kalk reactor, if they need just a shade more.

Now, there are a couple of ways to get measured amounts of kalk into your tank---just dumping it into your ro/di topoff container, lidding it tightly (use rolled up paper towel to stop air getting to it] and letting the ATO deliver it AS the topoff [it IS still fresh water, just fresh water with a lotta calcium in it.]
Suppose you are so cramped for space you really need to miniaturize, a kalk reactor, which looks a lot like a GFO reactor, is designed to feed an airline tube-sized tube through your kalk supply to your tank. Frankly, I had one of these, and got rid of it, because it was so much simpler just to put it into the topoff container. The thing had a kalk stirrer---nice, except it only needs to be stirred once, then allowed to sit and settle, and I had 3 expensive stirrers break down. When I found out I could just dump the stuff straight into the topoff barrel and skip the reactor and stirrer, I was a little put out.

In either case, whether you put the kalk into your topoff as I do, or whether you run this device to put a bit of kalk in as it goes through, it all works via an ATO system of some sort.

An overdose is just a milky white version of a topoff accident---mostly a problem because it IS fresh water altering your salinity if it goes too far. I've had a few accidents involving a coral reef, with no losses whatever. It's pretty safe. I will also say almost all the accidents were due to the kalk reactor, not the regular topoff.

Kalk will NOT raise your calcium level: it can't do that for you. You set your parameters by dosing separate supplements to reach [magnesium 1300, calcium 420, and alkalinity 8.3], THEN set your ro/di kalk mix to going, and your tank will hold those levels so long as the topoff barrel holds out. I've managed to sustain those levels for 3 months with no other adjustment, simply by adding 2 lbs of Mrs. Wages' Pickling Lime to a 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcan full of ro/di, to which I added more water as it ran low.

Great for handling a stony reef while you go on vacation.

Pretty safe. If you overdose badly, one tablespoon of Schweppes' Bar Soda per 50 gallons will usually fix the ph spike (the stuff comes in at ph 12) ---but the tank will self-correct really fast without that.
Pretty cheap too. The Mrs. Wages is 5 dollars for 2 pounds. That's 3 months worth in a 50 gallon reef.

This is NOT to start before you have a lot of corals---they'll be fine with your ordinary water changes, since your salt mix, if you're using a reef salt, will have calcium in it.

But once you notice that you're spoonfeeding calcium nearly daily and still needing more, you have two choices---well, three. You can add pretty expensive calcium by hand, you can do kalk, or you can use Two-part, which is also a good way to go. I personally like kalk best only because it's what I've always done.

When you reach that magical point where clams are building shell or stony coral is making new branches hand over fist, you are at that point of choice. Two-part or kalk, and if kalk, reactor or no-reactor.
 
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Great post, guys putting kalkwasser in tour tank or two part is night and day compared to water changes. The coral growth is ridiculous
 
DO you need an almost airtight lid on your ATO container for this? I use a 5 gallon bucket with a hole cut in the lid and run my line through the hole into my sump.
 
So my calcium keeps coming in at 380-400, but i only have 3 corals, but i keep tossing in some Purple up, just because i wants that Coraline hawtness lol, will the purple up raise the calcium or should i just not worry with it yet?
 
DO you need an almost airtight lid on your ATO container for this? I use a 5 gallon bucket with a hole cut in the lid and run my line through the hole into my sump.
I wouldn't say airtight but a form fitted lid is necessary . I've used a 29g clear Rubbermaid storage container with a lid for years with great results. Just dump some in periodically and stir with a piece of pvc pipe quickly every time I fill up the container and let the rest settle before use.

Then I have a controller with dual inline switches in the return controlling an outlet that I have a spectrapure stand alone pump set to run no more then 15 minutes at a time. This stops pH spikes and if the switches fail, which they will, then hopefully I catch it during one of my daily spot checks. Then I also have a pH probe set to also shutdown that outlet if the pH spikes above 8.6.

Plus, for back up on top of all that I have a tsunami AT1 switched outlet that's actually plugged into the controller outlet that the spectrapure pump is plugged into. This is set high up in the sump not in the water and if the switches fail allowing the pump to run, the timer of 15 minutes keeps going every 20 minutes and I don't catch it during a spot check or I'm out of town, and the pH doesn't spike shutting the outlet down then before the sump overflows the water pressure will shutoff the tsunami outlet. And if all that fails only about 26 gallons at most will be used. Don't get a container that's so huge your salinity would plummet to invert death levels. On my 55g I used to have I used a 5g with kalk. Never sucking from the bottom.

Yes I'm paranoid of floods and pH spikes are dangerous.
 
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So my calcium keeps coming in at 380-400, but i only have 3 corals, but i keep tossing in some Purple up, just because i wants that Coraline hawtness lol, will the purple up raise the calcium or should i just not worry with it yet?
I would highly suggest not wasting more money on purple up. It's an expensive magnesium supplement with aragonite sand that can't be used and gives a false calcium level.
 
i dont like variable evaporation rates and kalk in the topoff....alk shifts more than i like when a reactor and timer offer so much more control. from seasonal changes to daily changes in our houses, my personal experience always showed an untrustworthy evaporation rate. clearly i have never had a "fish room" or tightly sealed homes. In any case, unless you have tremendously consistent evap, this method is not the best method, in my opinion.
 
It's what we used before controllers, and it still works. A tank is subject to a lot of environmental changes through the seasons, but if you just watch your parameters, they say what's going on with the tank, and the evaporation rate usually doesn't change that much longterms: it's mostly set by the 80 degree temperatures we keep. If you check your region's average humidity (google it) and whether or not that fluctuates wildly for as long as a month, you can tell whether you live in one of those rare situations where the evaporation rate is going to go up and down significantly, and if you don't, it won't fluctuate significantly. If you don't ever have enough evaporation to cause enough to feed in, that's another issue, and you may need a calcium reactor, which controls its own rate of dissolving calcium.

In a very new tank, don't go the whole 2 tsp per gallon: an over-charge of calcium can play wonky games with your chemistry: under-dose: test your calcium and alkalinity and magnesium and keep it right where the levels are in my sig line, for starters, though some corals will like a bit more. Test the mg once every two weeks, and if you keep it up, the other two will stay pretty stable.
 
I've done my fair share of research on the need for an "air tight" kalk container.....and I tend to side with Randy Holmes farley's assessment that you don't absolutely have to have it air tight. The layer of calcium carbonate on the top of the reservoir water actually protects the integrity of the solution. He of course goes into great scientific detail to explain his findings ( I believe him...he is a chemist 😉)

Using Kalkwasser in my ATO was probably the best thing I ever did with my reef.
 
The humidity in the room where the tank is does vary seasonally and often a lot more than the outside air levels . A dehumidifier and or humidifiers help keep homes comfortable to a degree .

When the inside air is high in humidity or low in humidity as is not uncommon in many rooms where tanks are kept. the evaporation rate will vary. Looking at top off levels as an example : if they are say 1% with low humidity vs 2% with high humidity ,a 1% variation in top off doesn't sound terribly significant; but it's a 100% variation in limewater/kalkwasser dosing( ie alk and calcium dosing) when it's tied to top off. That lack of constancy in alk can be harmful to sensitive corals ;sps in particular.IME.
 
Anecdotally Top off dosing seems to work fine for many. Not saying either way is better or worse or right or wrong. The precise dosing probably is better in many ways but not a better method for at least me and maybe others as well.
 
Randy doses from a still reservoir, as do I. The limewater can retain it's strength there for several weeks with a loose fitting lid or perhaps even none though I use one to limit dust and such. With water movement ,as is the case in an ato setup or reactor , a tight fitting or sealed lid is preferred. The water movement allows more gas exchange at the surface adding CO2 in the reservoir . The CO2 binds with the OH form the calcium hydroxide( CaOH) forming CO3 which binds with the Ca as precipitated insoluble calcium carbonate. This depletes the strength of the limewater.
 
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