Stylo328's 187 (60x30x24) Build Thread

That stand is completely adequate.

Cheap "sheathing grade" plywood has a modulus of rupture of 3000 - 7000 psi. Being conservative and using 3k, that means each square inch of plywood can hold 3000 lbs. Go ahead and estimate how many square inches in cross section you have running from base to top. It has tens of thousands of pounds of weight support capability. The shear is what you need to consider, i.e. sideways forces. The stand is fine in that regard, too, so long as you don't use it for football blocking practice.
 
That stand is completely adequate.

Cheap "sheathing grade" plywood has a modulus of rupture of 3000 - 7000 psi. Being conservative and using 3k, that means each square inch of plywood can hold 3000 lbs. Go ahead and estimate how many square inches in cross section you have running from base to top. It has tens of thousands of pounds of weight support capability. The shear is what you need to consider, i.e. sideways forces. The stand is fine in that regard, too, so long as you don't use it for football blocking practice.

I appreciate the thorough post. As far as the shear risk, should I take any precautions and add some bracing or leave as-is and rely on the integrity of the stand?

I see no damage to any joints or evidence of splitting at any seams.

Thank you!
 
One of the things I appreciate about this hobby is the outlet for creativity. The planning is so much fun and provides a great break from everyday life.

That said, I purchased all of the wood yesterday to modify the stand. I also purchased a miter saw that I've been eyeballing for a while.

I love the "honey, I need it for the build" justification.

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And

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Updates should begin coming on a lore regular basis.
 
As far as the shear risk, should I take any precautions and add some bracing or leave as-is and rely on the integrity of the stand?

Not that I'm a structural engineer, but to my view, unless you're likely to experience an earthquake, the stand is fine in all regards. The tank was on it for years before you got it, wasn't it?
 
Not that I'm a structural engineer, but to my view, unless you're likely to experience an earthquake, the stand is fine in all regards. The tank was on it for years before you got it, wasn't it?

Yes, for two years.

I have abandoned the pursuit of reinforcing the stand based in the feedback I received. The wood is to enhance the height and aesthetic.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
And finally there is progress....

First a picture if the quarantine project - 75 gallons. It currently has an external overflow and sump, but I will be using a HOB Aquaclear unless I get alternate advice.

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On to the main event! I spent the better part of the weekend working on the stand. I have added a second layer of plywood at the top, mostly to help support the wood trim that will cover the plastic brace at the base if the tank.

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I also built a base to raise the overall height of the stand by 6"

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And here is the base where it will ultimately reside. I had to do some sanding to compensate for the unevenness of the tile. After a few attempts and some trial and error it now sits flat and very solid.

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Finally, here is the stand with base attached.

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To think, ll this for this little guy that's been with us for almost 12 years!

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Next step is deciding wether to paint the stand white or stain it in a dark finish. Will also need to start working on the QT system soon. Gotta love this hobby!
 
Did you change the location of the tank in your house?

Yes, ironically enough we moved the location from the living room to the family room. We all got a laugh out of the fact that we put in a floor, specifically for the tank, and then decided to change the spot.
 
Looking good s far. Since you asked, here are a few suggestions. Of course they are biased given my own experiences from one end of the spectrum to the other, but take them for what they are worth to you.

1. Stand is overkill as I told you the other day, but already done. I suspect you could have used the extra height on it since you are "anti-gravitationally challenged".

2. Lighting: given what I have used and learned in the past, and more so given where you live, I would make every effort under the sun (no pun intended) to place it where the tank gets direct sun light for as long as possible during the day. You live in Miami, so use it to your advantage for a change LOL........ I would concentrate the T-5 bulbs in the "white" and "blue" only for lighting during tail ends of the day and for your viewing time. It adds color to your eyes too. That will considerably cut on heat issues seen with MH as you are aware since you've used them before. I know you don't have MH now, but knowing you they will be going up next month!

3. Your tank is already drilled, so I would go with an external pump for return. I would use "internal power heads" (whichever you choose to use) for simplicity. Heat will be negligible unless you go mental adding a boat load of them. It will also give you far more choices of where to angle flows. I would also do my best to use the overflow to feed other equipment (skimmer at the very least) if at all possible. Less pumps and less points of failure. Gravity is constant, so less fiddling and tweaking too.

4. Don't know about your choice of fish in the future, but given your previous history, I think it would be OK to have a very thin layer of coarse CC for aesthetics only. Easy to disturb and allow any collected material to come into suspension and be taken out easily. This is a personal issue though.

5. I would seriously concentrate on LPS and softies in addition to fish and completely forget about wasting money on SPS. One thing It is very clear in my mind is that there is something in the water in south FL that does not allow SPS to flourish like they do elsewhere. I am yet to see the first tank in FL that looks like the dime a dozen SPS tanks int he rest of the country. Even with the gargantous volumes of water and dilution I had in my own system for year, I was never able to replicate what I easily did with plenty of neglect while living in MD with a system half the size. I am willing to let anyone prove me wrong though............

6. I still have a lot of stuff here you could probably use and could have if you are willing to do the drive to come get them. Least I could do since I owe you a chiller!! God knows I am not driving down there if I can help it LOL.................

7. Sorry, but did not read much of the thread, so I am sure it I missed what you have planned for fish??

8. I would do dosing for the next few months at least. Kalk is very cheap and easy to mix. A bit of work to keep up, but far easier than to try to set up and tweak a Ca reactor you won't need for months. In a year+ maybe the Ca reactor will be needed, but you'll also need to replenish evaporation then too, so why not start there now and kill 2 birds with one stone!
 
It has been a busy few weeks since the last update. Not an incredible amount of progress, but we are getting very close to "getting wet".

After much deliberation, we decided to go with a weather resistant satin paint in a dark espresso color. Here are a few photos of the stand fully primed and ready for paint.

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Since these pictures, two coats have been applied to the stand's exterior and three coats to the doors. I have one final coat to do on the stand and then I can begin painting the interior. I am thinking of using hydro stop paint on the inside of the doors and stand.

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http://www.quest-cp.com/trusted-brands/hydrostop

Would like your thoughts on using this. I searched and could not find any reference to use in an aquarium application.
 
And the paint work continues!

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Also picked up a Tunze Osmolator and a Bubble Magnus BMT01 dosing pump this week.

Finally, a few additions to the nano in anticipation of their new home.

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Painting Espresso was a good choice. And looks like you still have a nice amount of wood grain showing [which I like].

Thanks! The wood grain is fairy pronounced. Trying to avoid sanding between coats if possible to preserve it. Hopefully the stand will be finished this weekend.
 
You are using that on the inside of the stand right?

That was the intent, but I tried it on the top where the tank will sit and was not pleased with the coverage or ease of application.

Most of my local club members used Killz and highly recommended it. So... I just went an purchased a quart of Killz to finish the inside of the doors, stand and the top. Hopefully I'll post some pictures of the finished product later.
 
The paint work is finally complete. I am very happy, especially since my wife likes how bit turned out! Please let me know what you think.
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And finally, in its destination spot!

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The tank is HEAVY! Getting it up on the stand was very difficult, even with help from two other guys and my wife. We re fortunate that we didn't drop it!

Now on to the plumbing.

Picked up a Tunze Osmolator and a BM-T01 dosing pump. Also purchased a spectrapture RO, a pair of heaters, and an LED fuge light. Would like to have water in by mid-April.
 
So.... I decided to take the day off today with the intent of finally drilling the 40 and getting the glass for the baffles. So, off to Lowe's I went, where I spent the better part of an hour watching a young man break pane after pane as he attempted to cut the glass for my baffles. Unfortunately, when I got home, I was displeased with the glass and his cuts, so off I went to find a glass shop. After numerous calls, success! I found a local shop who could cut the baffles and drill the hole, except, the hole couldn't be drilled until Monday. Another wasted weekend I thought. So I found a second shop to drill the hole. Here is the final product.

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Please don't mock my silicone work. It's been a long day ;) I left plenty of room in the event I need to upgrade my skimmer down the line. The skimmer compartment is 13.5" x 17.5". Let me know what you think. And the refugium is 12.5" x 17.5".
 
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