suggestion for powerhead(s)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8503960#post8503960 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
The Tunze nanostreams are no smaller than a properly made maximod. They're also more expensive, and give significantly less flow.

THeyre also less efficient in most cases.

Rich, as we all know that you are a firm supporter of DIY applications.
The nanostreams are so much smaller and not as bulky as a mod on a maxi and very much more efficient than the modded maxi's. And they are plug and play, versus spending time modding a product to match the superior performance of Tunze.

Also if you have to mod a product, to try to meet another products specs, that is saying something in itself.

But a modded maxi is great flow for a person on a budget! Knowing you don't have shell out your paycheck on silly water movers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8504488#post8504488 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by geckofrog
a modded maxi is great flow for a person on a budget! Knowing you don't have shell out your paycheck on silly water movers.

This is what I like about the whole concept! I can't see paying that much to move some water around! Maybe an upgrade in the future, but probably not now.
 
Ok I ordered:
2 maxijet 1200s
2 maximod high flow kits
2 magnet holders
Total $160

Hopefully I will be happy with them. Thanks for everybody's input.
 
You don't have to drill a tank for a closed loop system. You can use an over the top intake, you could also use black or grey pvc to hide it a bit better. The biggest problem with putting the intake in the overflow is that your overflow will have to be able to handle the added flow going over it. I know mine won't and I have tempered glass, so my only option is to have the intake in the tank. I too was doing everything i could to keep the cleanest look possible in my tank. I'm pretty sure you could also paint the pvc with krylon fusion. It's supposed to be reef safe. Then you could match it to your background or whatever. Anyways, you don't have to drill, it's just a cleaner look and more preferred method.

Good luck
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8510382#post8510382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dcombs44
You don't have to drill a tank for a closed loop system. You can use an over the top intake, you could also use black or grey pvc to hide it a bit better. The biggest problem with putting the intake in the overflow is that your overflow will have to be able to handle the added flow going over it. I know mine won't and I have tempered glass, so my only option is to have the intake in the tank. I too was doing everything i could to keep the cleanest look possible in my tank. I'm pretty sure you could also paint the pvc with krylon fusion. It's supposed to be reef safe. Then you could match it to your background or whatever. Anyways, you don't have to drill, it's just a cleaner look and more preferred method.

Good luck

Ya I'd rather not paint anything going into the tank, a black pvc to hide it would be a good idea, but I've already made the order. If I decide to go that route in the future, I will have to do something of that sort though. Yes if it was drilled it would make things much easier and cleaner(which is what I'm goin for). Thanks for the suggestions. :)
 
Hey folks, great thread. This has inspired me to do some thinking about flow in my 158 system. I picked up a wireless modular timing device from RadioShack on clearance for $19.99. It controls up to eight outlets and I'm using it for my lights. I'm thinking with a couple of ph's and my modular system this could work. So my input is go with a moderately priced, but useful ph, and a wireless household timer/controller and you're golden.
 
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