Suggestions for Electrical Plan - 200G Reef Tank

[EagleI]

I have the uncommon opportunity to run the electrical for my 200g reef tank in any configuration I please. We recently made the ultimate decision to remodel our entire home, a project that started off as just an AC update and new hardwood floors.

So, I come to the forum for suggestions. The home will be getting all new electrical including a 400A panel which will provide plenty of power.

My current plan is to run one dedicated 20A GFI circuit for the tank, feeding two dual gang outlets behind the stand of the tank and one dual gang behind the canopy. I will be running the DC pumps, LED + T5 lighting and two 500W heaters all on the Apex.

Does this sound like a good idea? Open to any suggestions.

 

[vanburen]

Not that you will likely need the extra power but two separate circuits would provide redundancy. gfci. How about a house generator or ability to run the tank circuit off a portable one?


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[EagleI]

Not that you will likely need the extra power but two separate circuits would provide redundancy. gfci. How about a house generator or ability to run the tank circuit off a portable one?


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Although true, all the essential elements of the tank will be on one plug anyway - pumps, lights, heaters, skimmer etc due to being controlled by the Apex. I know there is an adapter made by Bill Wann that redirects the electrical load to a separate receptacle while still allowing the Apex to directly control the electronic but I don't want to spend the extra money on it unless it's necessary.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Go for 2 separate circuits, each close to the ends of the stand.
This way you can split the pump off on its own for insurance.
And make them GFI.

 

[soulpatch]

I ran 2 circuits for my tank as well. Apex is connected to one behind the stand and my other one is for QT tanks or any equipment I use for maintenance since I am operating around water. Super handy.

Also easier to divert genny power to them when wife is flipping breakers. They are painted bright blue so she knows to flip them to get tank running.

 

[stage3-s4]

GFIs are not a bad idea but I try to avoid using them for circuits with large pumps and motors. You may often come home to a nuisance tripped GFI and no water movement in your tank. I have had brand new pumps trip brand new GFI receptacles without any shorts to ground or any wiring issues. You may want to consider adding a GFI receptacle for only electronics like your controller, lights and small power heads and have the larger pumps on a non GFI receptacle. Its not a code requirement as well (at least in my area). Just my advice from 10+ years experience in the field.

 

[ca1ore]

Although true, all the essential elements of the tank will be on one plug anyway - pumps, lights, heaters, skimmer etc due to being controlled by the Apex.

This is a common misconception. Apex is highly addictive and I suspect the vast majority of owners quickly expand beyond a single energy bar. Having dual 20A circuits means the ability to plug a second energy bar into a different circuit. FWIW, I am using three circuits for my reef system.

 

[Breadman03]

Two circuits. Why?

Your $$$ powerhead gets a drop of water on it. You leave before it shorts out and kills the circuit. In your single-circuit setup, your tank is starting to die. A second circuit, which will cost probably $50-100 for breaker, wire and receptacle could be running your return pump, keeping your tank limping along until you get back.

 

[EagleI]

Okay, so here's my (almost) up to date plan. Black lines on the wall behind the tank are for dimensional reference.

x2 20A circuits, and the switch on the right hand side will activate the pump in my water change station in the backyard. I'll run a PVC line directly from the saltwater reservoir in the backyard to the sump of the DT.

I'll also have them wire a CAT5 so I can hardwire the Apex to our network. :beer:

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Looks good but I would suggest moving the outlets farther apart.
Closer to the tank ends makes things a lot easier for anything related to the plugs.

 

[FullBoreReefer]

I ran two 20a circuits for my tank. One apex eb8 on each circuit just because. Lights, powerheads, fans, and dosing pumps on one circuit. Then the return, auxiliary pump, heaters, and skimmer on the other.

So another words, I tried to split my usage between the two circuits. Safety was my number one concern as we all start building and expanding our systems, more water and more electricity.

 

[EagleI]

Looks good but I would suggest moving the outlets farther apart.
Closer to the tank ends makes things a lot easier for anything related to the plugs.

Good point, it would be impossible to reach those plugs without completely getting behind the tank.

I ran two 20a circuits for my tank. One apex eb8 on each circuit just because. Lights, powerheads, fans, and dosing pumps on one circuit. Then the return, auxiliary pump, heaters, and skimmer on the other.

So another words, I tried to split my usage between the two circuits. Safety was my number one concern as we all start building and expanding our systems, more water and more electricity.

Two circuits it is. I'd eventually like to have a backup generator connected to those breakers to automatically turn on if we experience a power outage.

 

[Breadman03]

Your little dude looks awful proud of his work. You should let him have a beer before bed.

 

[vanburen]

I'd also run passive USB cables between any locations where you will have reef stuff. That way you can connect apex energy bars etc and control pumps etc at all locations seamlessly. I now have an eb8 in my basement and it's great for my mixing station. I also plan to put in some float switches - very addictive.


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[EagleI]

Your little dude looks awful proud of his work. You should let him have a beer before bed.

He's more the bourbon type.

I'd also run passive USB cables between any locations where you will have reef stuff. That way you can connect apex energy bars etc and control pumps etc at all locations seamlessly. I now have an eb8 in my basement and it's great for my mixing station. I also plan to put in some float switches - very addictive.

Interesting, I was under the impression the Aquabus cable was not actually a USB and therefore not at all compatible?

 

[Breadman03]

Well, sort of. The Aquabus is basically USB, but at a higher voltage that will damage non-Aquabus devices, so it's more that USB devices aren't compatible with Aquabus.

 

[EagleI]

Well, sort of. The Aquabus is basically USB, but at a higher voltage that will damage non-Aquabus devices, so it's more that USB devices aren't compatible with Aquabus.

Interesting, so If I wanted to run an Aquabus cable 100 feet from my backyard mixing station pump to the Apex located under my tank, It would look like the following:

Aquabus compatible pump > plugged into USB receptacle > USB wire 100ft+ to USB receptacle in living room > Aquabus to Apex.

Does that make sense? I like the idea of it, if it would work.

 

[jda]

Three.

20A with NON-GFCI for your return pump and a backup heater - you don't want a fish to fart and trip that GFCI with a wisp of mist for this super important function that needs to keep moving even if it gets a bit of moisture. A breaker will trip anywhere if there is a real issue and otherwise, the mist will just burn off.

Then, two more 20A on GFCI for the normal stuff. Split up your heaters and flow pumps on both so that if one goes down, then the tank will stay warm and oxygenated.

You can do a fourth if you want just for lights - I don't, but I have seem some that do.

 

[Breadman03]

Aquabus only communicates between Neptune devices, though they use it to power the AFS. One limitation is that per page 11 of the Comprehensive Reference Manual, Aquabus length is limited to 200 feet. I don't know if that is a total for the entire system, or just the length between any two devices.

What you'd want to do is have your Apex set up inside with a cable run to an EB8 at the mixing station. You might find that a breakout box with float switches could come in handy for alerting you to high or low water levels there.

 

[EagleI]

Three.

20A with NON-GFCI for your return pump and a backup heater - you don't want a fish to fart and trip that GFCI with a wisp of mist for this super important function that needs to keep moving even if it gets a bit of moisture. A breaker will trip anywhere if there is a real issue and otherwise, the mist will just burn off.

Then, two more 20A on GFCI for the normal stuff. Split up your heaters and flow pumps on both so that if one goes down, then the tank will stay warm and oxygenated.

You can do a fourth if you want just for lights - I don't, but I have seem some that do.

That may be overkill IMO. Two circuits will be plenty, I think. More common than a single breaker tripping is the chance of our entire house going dark due to community outages and with two circuits I can spread the load of my two pumps, two MP40's and two heaters pretty safely.

Aquabus only communicates between Neptune devices, though they use it to power the AFS. One limitation is that per page 11 of the Comprehensive Reference Manual, Aquabus length is limited to 200 feet. I don't know if that is a total for the entire system, or just the length between any two devices.

What you'd want to do is have your Apex set up inside with a cable run to an EB8 at the mixing station. You might find that a breakout box with float switches could come in handy for alerting you to high or low water levels there.

I was hoping not to have to buy a separate EB8 for the mixing station to keep the (already extreme and over budget) costs down. :uzi: