Suitable phosphate levels for SPS to thrive ?

A couple of thoughts:

There is no consensus on "ideal" levels of PO4. Zero is too little,ime as corals need PO4 for essential life functions;too high is an x factor. Many sucdessful sps keepers try for readings under .05 ppm or so.
Phytoplankton and some copiotrophic algae are limited at less than .02 ppm; some oligotrophic types much lower .
Then there are some algae that use bacteria ,leaching phosphate from rock or substrate . The organic phosphates are most often unmeasured but come into play via degradtion or enzyme activity all ofthese and other things vary from tank to tank.
Calcification is altered at high PO4 levels.Higher PO4 may enable more nitrogen uptake too.
There are too many varying interdependent variables in a tank to define a general most optimal inorganic phosphate level,imo If that were possible we'd still need to contend with the inaccuracies of hobby grade testing.

Even if PO4 is .04ppm as the op's or lower,gfo or other removers can certainly do damage by taking it too low even slowly,ime. GFO also removes silicate and some metals for better or worse.
FWIW, I get good growth and color and very limited nuisance algae in the .02ppm to .04 ppm range with barley detectable NO3 around 0.2ppm. This range with occasional .01ppm readings or .06ppm reading has been part of a very solid 5 year plus run with healthy and vibrant sps I do feed quite heavily and do not presently use any gfo or other chemical removers but would if levels jumped. I dose acetic acid and ethanol for extra bioavaialbe organic carbon and increasd heterothopic bacteria levels.

It should be noted that while surface waters around reef have PO4 at only .005ppm ,it's higher at depths and it's constant as nutrient rich water moves up through the reef and consuming organisms and is diluted more in the sea than in our tanks.
 
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Toothman, my fauna marine reference solution doesn't contain PO4. It suits for salinity, kh, Ca, Mg, Si, K. Not PO4 or NO3.

You says your method with Hanna meter works properly. I suggest to try mine and then take your own conclusions. I've already tried Yours and don't find advantages. All IMO.
 
I also didn't dip them, but there from a trusted source, and the frags were all to small for me to not see any pests, worst case i can remove them and dip them now if itll help

If only I had a penny for every person who said that and later got screwed.

I recently ordered from one of the most trusted sources in the business and received a frag with some nice green Bryopsis on it.
 
I suggest to all user with Hanna Hi93713 using other reagents instead of Hanna's.
Elos Hi-res, Rowa, Merck, Tunze, Deltec, they all works perfectly and don't cause any fluctations in results. Redsea's don't works.
I strongly reccomend trying your own if You don't believe.
Fill the hanna vial as usual, make zero calibration, add 5 drops reagent 1 and one spoon reagent 2. Gently mix for 3 minutes then make immediate read and 3 minutes delayed read. Immediate read is always slightly lower than delayed one.
After trying that, You all will dump hanna reagents.
I have been doing that since 4 years and I know many people doing the same.
Check the vial to be w/o any minimal scratch, they would cause higher results.

I don't know if suits also for hanna checker. I never tried.
Which size spoon from the Elos kit? The smaller or the larger spoon? *The spoon is double-ended - small on one end and large on the other.
 
Bilk, use 5 drops of reagent 1 and the small spoon totally full, making a small hill with the powder. Otherwise You can use 10 drops and the big spoon. Don't ask me why, but results are always the same. Try yourself.
 
Bilk, use 5 drops of reagent 1 and the small spoon totally full, making a small hill with the powder. Otherwise You can use 10 drops and the big spoon. Don't ask me why, but results are always the same. Try yourself.
LOL it doesn't sound very scientific - "small hill on top". How small is small? Also how can you double both regents and get the same reading in the same volume of water? Ah well I guess I can try it and see what the results are. :) Thanks.
 
interesting about faunna marin reference, I did look at european web site and the bottle does have a different shape, possible your water is different. My bottle has the amount of phosphate written on the bottle, of faunna marin reference water. Still stick by my method corals look good. but I am sure other reagents work well also. The time waiting is more about making sure all the reagent is disolved and the turbidity is gone.

I use the 736 not the 713, 713 gave me incorrect readings.

Either way happy reefing. Many ways to get to the same place.
 
Thanks for all the replies… does seem like everyone has a different number they think is okay. Looks like ill have to observe closely when I get them and see …

I did just get the hanna checker recently . Maybe I should check a few times to see if it stays accurate ...
 
Bilk, I know it's not all that "scientific", but it works. As You said, try and see. I made many tests by myself just because I didn't believe me too when it had been told to me the same thing.
 
Ink, does it matter if you use a bit less or more powder?. It would be tricky to have the same amount if you are trying for half a spoon....

Mo
 
Moser, no, it doesn't matter. You can use the bigger elos spoon, or the small one. You can put 10 drops or 5. I tried all the combinations, result is always the same. Maybe it would change for much higher values. For values under 0,05, it doesn't matter.
The problem is mainly with Elos test, which if used as per label, it get consumed more quickly than tunze's. Tunze recharge is the cheapest and long lasting among all brands and use 5 drops with one spoon (bigger than elos'). I can also say that after 1,5 years reagents were opened, they gave same results as new ones.
 
Chasing nitrate and phosphate was the worst thing I have ever done for my sps tank. Feed heavy, skim heavy, throw snails at the algae that might pop up and stop worrying.
 
Chasing nitrate and phosphate was the worst thing I have ever done for my sps tank. Feed heavy, skim heavy, throw snails at the algae that might pop up and stop worrying.

lol Amen to that

Feed as much as you can without algae outbreaks and thats the perfect level.

If I drive phosphates low "¦ corals fade "¦ if I let it get high, algae blooms

The middle is the desirable sweet spot, regardless of what number the hannah meter reads

Let your corals be your indicators "¦ if they're looking bright and growing fast, stop chasing numbers "¦ the fluctuations just **** your corals off haha
 
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