Sump and plumbing help for 125

[acidflea]

I have a 75gal glass tank that has never been used which I will use as a sump. I was wanting some feedback on the design.

The gate valves are for tuning of water flow, the ball valves would allow me to shut off water flow without adjusting the gates (except for the one going to the fuge it will be for flow control), and the unions would allow me to take apart plumbing if needed.

All feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[SGT_York]

Why would you shut down your drain lines?

valves severely restrict the flow their inside diameters are much smaller than their pipe, so I'm not sure why you have a gate and ball valve on both your returns and drains your GPH will be much lower by adding both valves. If you keep with this design step up your valves on both return lines.

On your drain lines, what purpose does adding a valve do? If you intend to run a siphon line you NEED an open channel or you will have a noisy disaster on your hand. I really recommend going with a conventional herbie.

 

[acidflea]

After reading your post and thinking a little more. What would you think about removing the ball valves from the return lines and removing the gate valves from the drain lines? I would only be using the ball valves for maintenance purposes.

Not sure how I would do a herbie without putting my return line over the back of the tank.

 

[SGT_York]

you would have to run the return behind your tank to do a herbie without adding holes.

only ball valves would work just fine in the drain pipes, but get a size bigger for sure. From experience this is a difficult drain system Durso's with horizontal runs tend to gurgle and are loud. Much better to have a 1" pipe out of site then a loud tank, but feel free to ignore.

 

[acidflea]

you would have to run the return behind your tank to do a herbie without adding holes.

only ball valves would work just fine in the drain pipes, but get a size bigger for sure. From experience this is a difficult drain system Durso's with horizontal runs tend to gurgle and are loud. Much better to have a 1" pipe out of site then a loud tank, but feel free to ignore.

I understand the noise. The tank will be in a separate room and seen through in-wall opening. Hopefully that will be a good sound barrier. Still looking at options.

Thanks

 

[BIGD0G]

I have to agree that running a dual herbie and the return over the top would be best. Now for the ball valves and gate valve both in the same line not sure I understand the need for both. They are restrictive in nature anyway so I would not run both. For a herbie you will want the gate valve for easy adjustments. If you really needed to remove the pipes for maintenance once you shut the return pump off the water will stop flowing out of the tank so you can remove the pipe at the union to do what you need with it.

I would not use a ball and gate valve on the same line.

 

[acidflea]

How is this? I removed the ball valves from the return lines and gate valves from the drain lines.

Anymore suggestions?

 

[clay12340]

Is it wise to plumb the two drain lines together. Seems like if something restricted the plumbing post join you'd have no drains at all left open.

 

[acidflea]

Is it wise to plumb the two drain lines together. Seems like if something restricted the plumbing post join you'd have no drains at all left open.

The blue drain lines are not connected. They both drain into the sump.

 

[BIGD0G]

Honestly you should revisit your drain lines. Yes you have 2 but sounds like you will be using gate valves on them to control the flow thru them. While using gate valves to control the flow of the drains is common and done so to reduce the noise associated with the drain lines it is not advised to restrict them with no emergency drain. Even in your most recent drawing you have no emergency and thus if one of the drains become even partially blocked you run a high risk of a flood.

If it is your plan to not restrict the flow of either drain then I would validate that a single drain would handle the full flow of your return pump. In this case since you are not restricting the flow there is no good reason to have both a gate and ball valve on the same line.

 

[acidflea]

Honestly you should revisit your drain lines. Yes you have 2 but sounds like you will be using gate valves on them to control the flow thru them. While using gate valves to control the flow of the drains is common and done so to reduce the noise associated with the drain lines it is not advised to restrict them with no emergency drain. Even in your most recent drawing you have no emergency and thus if one of the drains become even partially blocked you run a high risk of a flood.

If it is your plan to not restrict the flow of either drain then I would validate that a single drain would handle the full flow of your return pump. In this case since you are not restricting the flow there is no good reason to have both a gate and ball valve on the same line.

Not sure I understand. I do not have gate valves in my drain lines on my second design. I have a union that would allow me to take the plumbing apart and I have a ball valve that I would only use for maintenance. I will not be using anything to restrict flow on the drain lines.

I have a union and a gate valve on returns. The unions would allow me to take apart plumbing. The gate valves on the return would allow me to restrict flow from the pump to the tank if needed.

Thanks

 

[SGT_York]

Looks fine, make sure you add some sort of strainer or trap to keep the snails out of your drains. I still say to a herbie though.

 

[Daimyo68]

imo, your over thinking this.

Get a couple MegaFlow Overflow kits. This will keep it pretty silent (shouldn't ever hear them from behind the wall).

For bulkheads, get slip/barbed. The megaflow just push/twist into it. The from the barbed side, just run black hose (This will help keep algae from growing in the hose) to your sump where you can either attach them via a lid with PVC, or just down into the water.

Personally I wouldn't put anything else except for a single ball valve on the return line. You can control flow using this 1 valve, and can T off just before that valve to your fuge. This is the only other place that a ball valve will be needed.

The only real reason for using unions would be for the possibility that you may move to a new home, or sell the tank in the near future. I've run tanks for years on end without ever having to take the plumbing apart for cleaning.

Attached a crude image for ya.