SanAntoneTy
New member
any sumpless reefers out there I am starting a 90 gallon sumpless and would like to here stories and suggestions equipment used and so on? help
Sumpless???
- Thread starter SanAntoneTy
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Get vol III of Delbeck and Sprungs "The Reef Aquarium" series. It's my understanding it's available on ibook. They discuss Lee Chin Eng and Dr. Jaubert's pumpless, skimmerless and sumpless methodologies.
Here's a sumpless and skimmerless system I've been maintaining since 2008:
http://youtu.be/-eCQSVdqBQA
Here's a sumpless and skimmerless system I've been maintaining since 2008:
http://youtu.be/-eCQSVdqBQA
SanAntoneTy
New member
what is your set up? beautiful tank
It's a 240 gallon, 96" x 24" x 24", at the time of the video it had 2 12000K 250 DE MH in lumenmax elite fixtures (a third was added a little while ago). Circulation is provided by 2 Korallia 2s and 2 Aquaclear 70s and a cheap air pump. about 80 - 90 lbs of live rock and about the same local limestone.
Bilk
New member
How are temps maintained with that type of lighting?
SanAntoneTy
New member
Sumpless since 1971. No problems yet
how do you have it set up ?
Paul B
Premium Member
There is a very long thread about it here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1711320
But basically it uses a reverse UG filter and a HOB home made skimmer.
But basically it uses a reverse UG filter and a HOB home made skimmer.
tanksfishtank
Premium Member
1971? Paul B, Thats amazing! Looks beautiful! I cant wait to look through that thread after work tonight!
Force4000
Member
I have a 55g with no sump. Just running a Aqua C Remora HOB skimmer and a fluval 305 canister with Chemi-pure Elite and crushed LR. Great Mechanical filter for keeping the tank clean. I also have 70lb's of LR which seems to greatly help and lots of flow with 2 hydor korilia 750's. The key to a canister is cleaning though, otherwise it will build up nitrates. I personally don't mind all the gear in the tank, a lot of people on here cant stand it but it doesn't bother me one bit.
Note the watt/gallon ratio is only 2:1, much lower than is commonly recommended for MH with SPS and it's sitting next to the central air and has it's own 6" duct directly off the main plenum.
Usually every 10 or 11 days it's first topped off with tap water usually around 15 gallons then it gets a 20 gallon water change. On average twice a year the top off and water change may be up to three weeks apart. This has occasionally caused some die off with the corals that have not been pruned back and have grown up to the surface. The only calcium supplement used is CaribSea's araga-might and haphazardly some Kents superbuffer.
Aquarist007
New member
And you have a great algae scrubber
Paul B
Premium Member
I also have a great bald head but the truth of the matter is that my algae scrubber is now totally filled with tube worms. Very little algae is growing in there, or anywhere now for some reason that I can't explain but I also can't understand why Supermodels don't find me attractive, but I digress. I think the tiny tube worms must be fantastic water purifiers, maybe even better than algae but I can't really make that statement with any sort of certainty asd I have no idea how those worms could do that. But they seem to do it somehow. Maybe some day I will find out about the worms, and supermodels.
I have seen the same thing with algae happen in my tanks over the years. Nilseen and Fossa present similar information in Vol I of their Modern Reef Aquarium series. As I think you've pointed out in other posts the diffeence between cycling a tank and the maturation of a system. They expect nuisance alga to show up then dissappear on it's own without the need to jump through hoops as many aquarists do. This has been my own experience and I'd say 80-90% of the nuisance alga problems I encounter follow the timeline they give for the maturation process.
And I also have the same problem with supermodels.
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