T5 lamp PAR readings

So those readings would be similar to bulbs ran off of a sunlight supply tek fixture? If not what can i expect?
Just purchased the 6 bulb 54 watt fixture, I like it alot, I had the icecap setup and sold off for this.
TIA
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8052239#post8052239 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raynist
where these all the 54w bulbs?

Do you think the results should be the same for the 39w bulbs?

--Ray

Yeah, 54 watt lamps. I suspect the different lengths will be the same.
 
Re: GE daylight

Re: GE daylight

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8052463#post8052463 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChiaJunkie
any problem with the GE daylight? It seems to have pretty solid PAR, and an excellent price.

One of the things I liked about the sun was it brought out red and yellow colors. Now it is just white and has barely as much PAR as the Aquablues, it used to cream them. I guess it is OK if you want to have a more blue look.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8053344#post8053344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ghost
sorry for asking this, how often should you replace the ATI bulbs?

Point of great debate. Anytime after a year is my opinion. You might be able to push them as long as 2 years. I think you just need to track growth and color and decide what is best for your particular system.
 
One of the things I liked about the sun was it brought out red and yellow colors.

Hey Grim, thanks for those #'s Im sure I wasn't the only person wanting them

What did you use to measure the PAR #'s on those? how far away was the photosenser etc..... specs please.


Do you think the "Daylight" Bulbs from ATI and GEISMANN would have the same effect on reds and yellows?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8053660#post8053660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Creetin
So those readings would be similar to bulbs ran off of a sunlight supply tek fixture? If not what can i expect?
Just purchased the 6 bulb 54 watt fixture, I like it alot, I had the icecap setup and sold off for this.
TIA

The numbers are meaningless except for comparison of the different lamps. You can pick better output lamps for your Tek based on the output from the list.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8053942#post8053942 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106
I rushed and hit submit...

I read where you do not recommend the GE bulbs anymore? explain about that...

I liked the way the lamp picked up red and yellow colors. The white looking lamps I have tried just don't give you the pop the dingy colored GE did. I will have to pop it in with a bunch of blues and actinics and see how it does but it looks like the cheap 10K lamps some of the cheap fixtures come with.
 
Grim

I have the 48" tek light and want to put it on a 6 ft tank (180g). I'm trying to figure out a way to light up the last 24" of the tank. Could I use a 24" fixture just to illuminate that 2' x 2' square? I was also thinking of just getting a 250w Halide to illuminate.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
what are these numbers compared to the VHO bulbs

was this with or with out reflectors

i always thought UVL was the best but according to your par readins they are 2nd to ATI.
 
Dunno about that lamp but I have ran the GE 3000K and it does make pink and purple stand out a lot better. I plan on running it once I have my nutrients in check.
 
Thanks Grim! The numbers are very enlightening! Haha.
I really love my T5 setup and reading your posts a long time ago helped me choose T5 instead of heating the water with a handful of MHs!

I have had my current system running for about a year and my corals are going thru a really good growth spurt right now so I am not going to change any lamps until I notice them not growing. :)
 
I didn't realize that ATI was still around and was under the impression that the D&D bulbs were the same bulbs with different names? Can you still get the bulbs that are called blue plus then?
 
ATI Sells Blue Plus, D&D/Guisemann has the Actinic Plus. Reefgeek has the Blue Plus and they are quite a bit better than the Actinic plus.
 
Dear Grimm,

A note of "Thanks" for helping with the understanding of T-5's, and how to make them work for us in our tanks.

There use to be an old 'guideline' of how many watts per gallon of light would be minimal for keeping different types of aquatic life.

Example: I had a 70g tank, with 4-VHO 48" bulbs, so 440 watts of light. That would be 6.28 watts per gallon. OK, for most things but not stonys and high light clams.

Now I have T-5's, 4- bulbs (54W) on an IC660 W/ IC reflectors, and one on a TEK ballast and reflector (54W) so I have a total watts of 270. This now gives me 3.85 watts per gallon.

The numbers say less light, but it just isn't so. Is there any guidelines for T-5's, and how much light is needed to keep softies, stonies, anemones and clams?

I think I have enough light for stonies, high light clams, and anemones, am I correct?

Thanks again for your time!

Robyn
 
Robyn, watts are a measure of electrical consumption, not of light. The burner on your electric range set to high turns uses a lot of electricity and glows with orange light...not much PAR for a lot of watts.

The watts/gallon concept was never close to exact, but it can only be applied within one class of lighting. VHO, PC, T-5, MH--and even within each of those classes--vary pretty dramatically in their output of light for a given amount of power. (That's the whole thrust of the PAR testing of bulbs/reflectors/ballasts that The GR does so well.)

That said, you have enough light to keep some "SPS" corals, most clams and many anemone species. (At least I can say, with similar lighting, I'm able to do so. YMMV)

Gary
 
WHat ^^^ Said. There are so many different ballast, lamp and reflector combination and varied tank deminsions that watts per gallon is useless. Back when everyone had flat reflectors and rectangular tanks it was still only a helpful guideline.

If you are running 4 overdriven T5's with IC reflectors on a tank less than 24" tall you have enough light to grow anything under the lamps all the way to the sand bed.
 
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