The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
No, T5's are pretty even all the way across. According to Ice Cap VHO's burn pretty even on their ballasts too,
T5's: A cautionary note
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I have been thinking about all of the bulb layout questions and bulb staggerring options and the pros and cons of 48" staggerred versus 60" bulbs (over a 5' tank, more or less).
Since the 54W bulbs have more wattage per ft (running on an IC660), then I was thinking of running them right down the center and running some bulbs from front to back on the sides. Since our tank is planned to be between 30" and 36" from front to back (leaning more towards deeper), then 4 39W bulbs, two on each end, running from front to back (perpendicular to the typical bulb placement) seems to be a solution ? I know it puts another ballast and set of bulbs (which cost about the same as the larger bulbs), but what in our hobby is ever cheap ?
Here is what I was thinking, on a 5'L X 3'W(deep) X 28"T tank
Each double line indicates a bulb
39 W..............................54W...............................39W
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It will take a total of 4 IC 660 ballasts, and should give great coverage, with the "best of both worlds" IE: 80W you need high light corals in the top half, 54W staggerred you need them in the center, this way you can put them anywhere.
Does this sound about right ? or am I just mis-interpretting the data and going off the deep end, mentally ?
How well do the 39W bulbs do when overdriven ?
Any feedback is welcomed and appreciated
Since the 54W bulbs have more wattage per ft (running on an IC660), then I was thinking of running them right down the center and running some bulbs from front to back on the sides. Since our tank is planned to be between 30" and 36" from front to back (leaning more towards deeper), then 4 39W bulbs, two on each end, running from front to back (perpendicular to the typical bulb placement) seems to be a solution ? I know it puts another ballast and set of bulbs (which cost about the same as the larger bulbs), but what in our hobby is ever cheap ?
Here is what I was thinking, on a 5'L X 3'W(deep) X 28"T tank
Each double line indicates a bulb
39 W..............................54W...............................39W
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It will take a total of 4 IC 660 ballasts, and should give great coverage, with the "best of both worlds" IE: 80W you need high light corals in the top half, 54W staggerred you need them in the center, this way you can put them anywhere.
Does this sound about right ? or am I just mis-interpretting the data and going off the deep end, mentally ?
How well do the 39W bulbs do when overdriven ?
Any feedback is welcomed and appreciated
mcegelsk
New member
Grim-
If I were to compare two fixtures of T5s same light configuration say 14 39W T5 HO lamps.
Scenario: One fixture is to be driven by Workhorse ballasts (whatever amount of ballasts required to drive them is used) and the other fixture would be driven with IceCap 660 and IceCap 430 ballasts (again whatever number required).
Question: Are there equal power requirements between the two fixtures or does one require more power than the other due to the bulbs being overdriven?
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but just want to confirm. ~Matt
If I were to compare two fixtures of T5s same light configuration say 14 39W T5 HO lamps.
Scenario: One fixture is to be driven by Workhorse ballasts (whatever amount of ballasts required to drive them is used) and the other fixture would be driven with IceCap 660 and IceCap 430 ballasts (again whatever number required).
Question: Are there equal power requirements between the two fixtures or does one require more power than the other due to the bulbs being overdriven?
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but just want to confirm. ~Matt
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7257308#post7257308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
I have been thinking about all of the bulb layout questions and bulb staggerring options and the pros and cons of 48" staggerred versus 60" bulbs (over a 5' tank, more or less).
Since the 54W bulbs have more wattage per ft (running on an IC660), then I was thinking of running them right down the center and running some bulbs from front to back on the sides. Since our tank is planned to be between 30" and 36" from front to back (leaning more towards deeper), then 4 39W bulbs, two on each end, running from front to back (perpendicular to the typical bulb placement) seems to be a solution ? I know it puts another ballast and set of bulbs (which cost about the same as the larger bulbs), but what in our hobby is ever cheap ?
Here is what I was thinking, on a 5'L X 3'W(deep) X 28"T tank
Each double line indicates a bulb
39 W..............................54W...............................39W
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
||||======================================||||
It will take a total of 4 IC 660 ballasts, and should give great coverage, with the "best of both worlds" IE: 80W you need high light corals in the top half, 54W staggerred you need them in the center, this way you can put them anywhere.
Does this sound about right ? or am I just mis-interpretting the data and going off the deep end, mentally ?
How well do the 39W bulbs do when overdriven ?
Any feedback is welcomed and appreciated
That should work fine. My own theory which seems to be backed up by Ice Caps wattage numbers is that the shorter lamps burn even brighter on the IC ballasts. 39 watt lamps are supposed to run at 60 watts. 58.5" @ 100 watts = 1.7 watts per inch. 46.5" @ 80 watts = 1.72 watts per inch 34.5" @ 60 watts = 1.74 watts per inch 23.5" @ 50 watts = Gimmi some shades
I haven't actually tested the shorter lamps to confirm that but it did hold true going from the 80 watt lamp to the 54. Once I get moved I intend on snagging a couple of 2 foot lamps to see if its true.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The workhorse drew 249 watts to run 4x54 watt lamps. The IC will draw 303. The difference is the workhorse driven lamps produced PAR of 125, the Ice Cap did 183. A fixture with 10 54 watt Ice Cap driven T5's would have as much or more light as running 14 lamps on workhorses. With 39 watt lamps I am not sure what the differences in output would be but the IC unit would be brighter for sure.
s3aL
New member
More T5 questions
When overdriving T5's with the icecap 660, what exacally are you suppose to have fans running on to cool down? The end caps or the bulbs or both?
Im not to sure how many fans im gunna need to keep the bulbs cool. Im thinking of doing either 48" 4x54w on a icecap 660 and 2x39w on a icecap 660
Or 48" 4x54w on icecaps 660's and 2x54w tek retrofit for dusk/dawn.
How many 3" or 4" Orion fans would you recommend in the canopy?
When overdriving T5's with the icecap 660, what exacally are you suppose to have fans running on to cool down? The end caps or the bulbs or both?
Im not to sure how many fans im gunna need to keep the bulbs cool. Im thinking of doing either 48" 4x54w on a icecap 660 and 2x39w on a icecap 660
Or 48" 4x54w on icecaps 660's and 2x54w tek retrofit for dusk/dawn.
How many 3" or 4" Orion fans would you recommend in the canopy?
Obi-dad
Active member
I only had 3 Orion fans blowing into my canopy, and the hole on the exit side was the same size as the cutout for the fans. This was not enough, and my bulbs were way down on output after 6 months due to being too hot. I took the fans off the input side, put them on the exit side blowing out, then increased the size of the input side and hung a 6" walmart fan blowing in. Much better airflow and the bulbs are lasting much longer.
To sum up, cooling is important for bulb life, don't skimp like I did.
To sum up, cooling is important for bulb life, don't skimp like I did.
dwdenny
New member
Ok so if you have 2 4" fans blowing into the canopy nd the back is completely open would that be enought cooling.
Another question is how are LPS doing with T5HO not overdriven. I know Grim suggested 4X24w T5 retro staggered. I am just a little worried about blasting them with to much light. PS the sandbed is only 12" or so under the surface. I thought about just doing 4X75w VHO 2 actinicwhite and 2 superactinics.
Another question is how are LPS doing with T5HO not overdriven. I know Grim suggested 4X24w T5 retro staggered. I am just a little worried about blasting them with to much light. PS the sandbed is only 12" or so under the surface. I thought about just doing 4X75w VHO 2 actinicwhite and 2 superactinics.
s3aL
New member
Hmm, I never really thought about using those 6" clip on fans from walmart heh. I guess I can get a couple of those and cilp them to the back of the canopy or something.
Also I have no holes on the sides of my canopy but the back to the canopy is open. Is that okay?
Still wondering if the endcaps or the bulbs or both are suppose to be cooled down by fans.
Also I have no holes on the sides of my canopy but the back to the canopy is open. Is that okay?
Still wondering if the endcaps or the bulbs or both are suppose to be cooled down by fans.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I got away with a couple Ice Cap fans on my 80 watt system but they dont get nearly as hot as the 54's. I'd have lots of vents up high with fans blowing in. It sould keep the hot air pushed out through the vents.
My next system is going to have 4 54 watt lamps overdriven. I am going to cut 2 large vents in the top of the canopy and cover them with floor register vents for home heating. I will have 3 fans blowing in from the back across the lamps.
My next system is going to have 4 54 watt lamps overdriven. I am going to cut 2 large vents in the top of the canopy and cover them with floor register vents for home heating. I will have 3 fans blowing in from the back across the lamps.
You mentioned clam and sps position.....
I am running a setup similar to what you are talking about. 8x80watt (longer tank) thats 28" deep and my clams are happy on the sand, SPS are up high. I introduced the SPS half way up and slowly moved to the top of my LR. All are showing good color and the SPS are growing well and have had a nice color change in the past month. You should not have any trouble with clams on the sand (3 blue plus, 5 11k daylight german Geissman bulbs)
My neighbors claim I am harvesting aliens.
I am running a setup similar to what you are talking about. 8x80watt (longer tank) thats 28" deep and my clams are happy on the sand, SPS are up high. I introduced the SPS half way up and slowly moved to the top of my LR. All are showing good color and the SPS are growing well and have had a nice color change in the past month. You should not have any trouble with clams on the sand (3 blue plus, 5 11k daylight german Geissman bulbs)
My neighbors claim I am harvesting aliens.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If the back is open you could either cut vent holes in the top and have fans blow in from the back or cut holes for fans in the sides and have them blow in from there. Worry about keeping the lamps cool and the endcaps will be fine.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You need the fans pulling air in from the outside. What I did on my 125 was drilled 8 quarter inch holes in the top lid above each reflector to let hot air out.
In your case the easiest thing would be to mount the fans blowing in from the back opening and cut yourself vents in the top. You could cover the openings with black metal mesh, like the stuff they use for speaker grills in cars, and it would look nice. I am not sure where you can buy the stuff.
In your case the easiest thing would be to mount the fans blowing in from the back opening and cut yourself vents in the top. You could cover the openings with black metal mesh, like the stuff they use for speaker grills in cars, and it would look nice. I am not sure where you can buy the stuff.
s3aL
New member
Even though I dont want to drill into the canopy, im gunna do what you said cuz that sounds like a good idea .
Couple other quesions on where to drill the holes and how many.
Should I have the holes drilled right above each individual reflector?
How many holes for each reflector? 3 holes for each reflector? One on the left one in the middle and one on the right? Or just one hole in the middle for each reflector?
Edit: What happens if some water splashes on the overdrivin bulbs?
.Couple other quesions on where to drill the holes and how many.
Should I have the holes drilled right above each individual reflector?
How many holes for each reflector? 3 holes for each reflector? One on the left one in the middle and one on the right? Or just one hole in the middle for each reflector?
Edit: What happens if some water splashes on the overdrivin bulbs?
Last edited:
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7262708#post7262708 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by s3aL
Even though I dont want to drill into the canopy, im gunna do what you said cuz that sounds like a good idea
Couple other quesions on where to drill the holes and how many.
Should I have the holes drilled right above each individual reflector?
How many holes for each reflector? 3 holes for each reflector? One on the left one in the middle and one on the right? Or just one hole in the middle for each reflector?
If I were doing this I would either cut slots above the reflectors or cut a couple of rectangle openings in the lid and use the heat register vents to cover the openings. You are running more lamps in a smaller space and the lamps get hotter. You are going to want a lot of airflow.
If you do the holes I would do one every couple inches over each reflector. You want it nearly perforated. Mine had no light shining out the holes at all, I had black foam I was going to use as a light block and didn't end up needing it.
