T5s and Browning Acros

jmart64

New member
I have recently gone from a 6X80 IceCap T5 retrofit to an ATI Sunpower 8X80 and seem to have some browning in a few of my acros. The tank is a 125 72L X 20D and my water parameters are as follows:

Nitrate 2.5-5
Phosphate .07
Cal 450
Mag 1400
KH 9

I am thinking the problem is related to the change in lighting, but I'm not sure if I'm getting too much or too little light. I have attached my PAR readings taken at the middle, left, and right ends of the bulb; rear, middle, front; and at various depths. I was hoping someone could provide some insight and let me know if these seem high, low, or about right for and SPS dominant tank.

Thanks,

Joe
 

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If nothing changed but the lighting, it is the lighting. It isn't because your are getting less light. You are getting more. Cut down on the photoperiod to acclimate.
Ken
 
If your lighting changed and your getting higher PAR then your sps would more then likely bleach not brown out.
 
You need to consider the bulbs of your new fixture.
They all vary in PAR and spectrum.
The combination of bulbs needs to be carefully planned for best results.
I would say the more PAR the better for you.
One of the best choices for that is ATI blue Plus, as far as I know.

Grandis.
 
Blue plus with a combo of purple plus and kz new gen are the best as far as par goes with great color and growth I think.
 
Yeah I agree that if it was too much light then you should be bleaching not browning. That said, the ATI fixture you have is more than powerful enough for anything you want to keep. What kind of bulbs are you using, how old, and what were you using in your old fixture?

The bulb combo krshlln300 stated sounds good to me also.
 
I agree that the bulbs could be the main thing that pushed them over the color threshold and that they could be off color but, I also agree that they should have burned instead of browned...

The 5 in the nitrate scale isnt helping you any, and the phosphates at .07....well...
 
I've seen this a number of times and I believe this makes sense when changing to bulbs with different spectral qualities. It seems to me that sometimes when you change bulbs, the coral will not have sufficient pigment yet to block certain spectrum of light. The purpose of some pigmentation appears to be, at least in part, to inhibit zoox. Without the pigment, it seems, this lack of pigment allows the zoox to grow and causes the coral to brown, until the coral can produce sufficient pigment to begin to inhibit the zoox. I think often the coral can't handle the quick increase in zoox and quickly bleaches. However, bleaching always seems to be dependent on a number of synergistic effects. Perhaps, if there aren't other stressors or for whatever reason, the increased zoox isn't enough of an issue to cause a breakdown of symbiosis and the coral just deals with it. IME, they should regain color though within a few weeks.
 
I have approximately the same bulb configuration as before:

Previous
1 Geismann Actinic+
2 Geismann Pure Actinic
3 Geismsnn Aquablue+
4 ATI Purple Plus
5 Geismann Actinic+
6 Geismann Actinic+

New
1 Geismann Actinic+
2 Geismann Actinic+
3 Geismann Pure Actinic
4 Geismsnn Aquablue+
5 ATI Purple Plus
6 Geismann Pure Actinic
7 Geismann Actinic+
8 Geismann Actinic+

Most of the bulbs are new, the ones that aren't still have strong PAR readings.

Should I just leave if for a couple of weeks and see if they acclimate?

Thanks,
 
Is anyone else testing their PAR readings? How do yours compare with the ones I posted at the start of the thread, and what type of lights are you using?

Joe
 
As stated above, the corals could be fine but are adjusting to added or different light spectrum. As long as the corals arent bleaching or RTN/STN, they will adapt to the new lighting. Are the polyps out?
 
Yes the polyps are out. However, I have noticed that on my large red planet the polyps are not extending the way they were previously.

Joe
 
I would look into the water paramenters as the main culprit your phosphates should be zero as well as notrates being as close to zero as possible, try tunning some fresh media like gfo or phosban. That should help.
 
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